sorry about that.. i just took 2... when i was taking pictures of my wheels.. they are not true night shot but will give you an idea

fyi, the A4 wagon next to my car is running ALL stock lights, stock xenons, stock halogens...

 

Looks pretty good especially cosidering the lighted garage. How does it look at night? How far does it project out?

 

look's good d0oD!!

 

joker, I tried to PM you earlier today, but your mailbox was full, so it bounced back to me. Remember to empty both the in and out boxes! :smile:


Clover

 

in terms of projection, it is about the same as before for the xenons and halogens.. cept everyhting is a bit more white... however, looking into the lense with the xenon on it yields a mild purple tint which i am not a big fan of... also, could be the result of an inferior xenon bulb, but at times if i turn xenon on and off quickily, it seems to ruin the xenon's color a bit...

the fogs are not perfect... as everyone i talked to told me.. piaas are not designed for performance.. they are designed for looks!

 

So what brand would you recommend...would the Nokya's light it up better? I always thought that PIAA was one of the best brands but maybe I'm mistaken.

The Nokya's in the headlights of my friend's car are really nice but the projection of headlights can't be compared to fogs as they are made for completely different uses. Fogs just need to cut into rain/fog right in front of the car.

 

from what ive gathered from some friends of mine who run his 90 legacy in rallies... he told me, for true lighting performance.. hella, ipf are better than piaa...

problems with piaa is that, yes, they look great, but their wiring can fail... whereas hella really is probably the best for the job..

 

Eh, too bad Hella doesn't make h7 bulbs...only 1,3 and 4. I might give the Nokya's a try sometime since they're a lot cheaper than PIAA's.

 

Hey guys! who can tell me how do i replace the fog lamps on my '06 MCS Cav.? do i need to remove the front bumper to do this? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

jack up the car, throw it on stands, turn the wheel all the way et voila! you can get to the foglights. turn the other way for the other side

 

Thanks!

I will try that today,

Amil

 

Just bought some last night at Advance Auto for the MINI. $44.94 for the twin pack. Hella H7 Xenon Blue Optilux 55w replacement. Definetly much more white than stock bulbs. No wierd or goofy blue effects. I am very happy. I thnk I will change out the high beam bulbs with these also.

 

I don't think thats glare, i think that's light striations, its the way the lamp interacts with the reflector and how the light waves are reflected inside the reflector.

 

exactly my point though.....you can say its not the word 'glare' (though thats how its termed by HID designers...and where i found those pics). But it is how the HID bulb is being reflected inside a halogen housing which is not meant to have HIDs in there.

So whether or not its called glare....its light making it out above the cutoff line and blinding other drivers.

 

On Sat, 26 May 2007 Howsoonisnow1985@aol.com wrote:
"Hello I wanted to replace several of my lights. I have a 2003 MINI Cooper S, It has stock H11 fogs, H7 55w highs and low beams I wanted stronger lighting system for midnite mountain runs, but do not want driving lights?"


Headlamps can be readily and safely upgraded with H7 65w bulbs.
Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all"Plus+50" H7 bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can buy.

But, Osram (euro spec lighting) offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher output and longer life. Here is the comparison:

Standard H7: 55w, 1400 lumens, 500 hours

H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand): 55w, 1550 lumens, 225 hours, $17.50/ea

H7 rallye+65 (Osram only): 65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, $28.40/ea

The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item.

Can also make your brake, rear fog, and rear turn signal lamps 40%
brighter for $7.10/bulb, your one and only reversing/backup lamp 100%
brighter for $8.20/bulb, and your front parking lights, front and rear
sidemarker lights 60% brighter for $4.24/bulb.

I also stock Osram's "magic" Diadem turn signal bulbs, applicable for your
front blinkers with clear lenses requiring an amber bulb, which disappear
(chrome ball) when off to eliminate that orangey look, flash legal amber
when on, and will NEVER fade/bake to brownish white like the originals.
$9.20/ea.

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You got a site?

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com

H7 rallye+65 (Osram only): 65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, $28.40/ea

I am excited that they now have this this bulb (above) in Yellow meant for bad weather such as rain, snow, sleet, etc.

 

I have bought the Osram 65W rallye bulbs, Diadem turn signal bulbs, and
brighter halogen back-up bulbs for my car and my wife's from Dan in the past
and am pleased and impressed with them (the bulbs and Dan).

 

"brighter back up bulbs"
Mines only has one, but I do want to hook up two useless bulbs on top to reverse wiring

 

For mountain drives they're great I got highs cause that what I use for night twisties, but I do want those yellows H7 65W orsams

 

I know this post was a while ago but Mini Parts a NAM vendor has the Hella FF200 for $399 good deal

 

That's not exactly true. The whole "85 Watts of light" thing is a misnomer to begin with. Light output isn't measured in Watts, it's measured in lumens. And is *is* possible to get more "lumens per Watt", depending on the technology used in the bulb and the wavelength of the light produced. To be more precise with their language, the claim should be "our 55W bulbs produce the same amount of light output (lumens) as the competitor's 85W bulbs".

Here's an extreme example: Consider the coil burner on an electric stove as a light filament. It may consume 500 Watts of electricity, but it produces less light than a 3W nightlight. Why? Because the electricity is converted almost entirely to heat and infrared light, leaving just a little bit of visible light in the lower (red) end of the spectrum.

Although it's true that a simple coating on the bulb to change the color won't increase the "lumens per Watt" value, using a different metal for the filament or using different gases inside the bulb *can* increase the brightness for a given amount of power consumed.

I replaced the bulbs in my factory driving lights with the Hoen "Xenonmatch" bulbs, and while they're still 55W bulbs just like the factory bulbs, the light produced is both whiter *and* brighter than what I was getting from the factory bulbs.

 

Mine has one back up bulb and my wife's VW Cabrio has two, that makes three.
So I went for the plural.

 

I've measured the output of the "85W of light from 55W" or "+50%" type
bulbs and found only a very tiny increase (1/6 of an f-stop or about 10%). I'd consider their claims to be false advertising.

The Osram 65W ralleys do shine significantly more lumens per watt
(32 lumens/watt as opposed to about 26-27 for stock bulbs),
and there are some bulbs with a spherical head and IR reflecting coating
that have even more lumens per watt (but they don't fit the MINI).
I believe they're called HIR bulbs. I put a 9011 HIR into a friend's Honda's
high beams. They get about 39 lumens/watt and have the same lifespan
as the stock ones.

 

Great anaolgy scott....the lamps that we make are High Intensity Discharge (HID) and our 10 watt lamps are so bright you can't even directly look at a piece of paper thats infront of the lamp, but a 10 watt halogen, I could stare at all day (as long as you give me a beer with that to help pass the time)