I just wanted to share a project I've been working playing with off and on for the last two months. I've looked everywhere to buy Ian's Auto Up module but it looks like FES only sells in bulk.. so I decided to build my own. I purchased an arduino, breadboard, jumper wires, and a spare switch panel to get started. Today I finally got it working correctly - it disables DSC after 5 seconds, and it detects button presses less then a half second to activate auto-up on the passenger window. These were my two main goals for this project. But now that I know how all the switches are pinned and controlled, I can program any combination of switches. I think latching front fog lights would be cool. Any ideas what else would be useful?

Here's a quick video of it in action:

 

Awesome!

Adding auto up for the driver’s side would be good for people who don’t have the ability or want to pay for someone to program the factory option.

 

Good to see a project like this.

What's your plan on how the connections to be done? Ian's is plug and play with connector, which is hard to do with off the shelf Arduino or other similar boards. You have done the easy part - ask why I know. If you are not planning for general consumption the least work approach is to just splice into the OE harness. I am reluctant to do that, for just these two niceties.

It would not be easy to latch the fog light and I infer you mean to override the BCM that you have to have the running lights on to turn on the head light. I don't see a point as if you turn on the fog light, you should have the running lights on, and the BCM programming already allows you to do that. For me Ian's module or a project like this only buys me the passenger side one touch up and the ability to opt-in the DSC/ASC.

If I were to bother with adding a module hack like this, it must have much more value-adds, like handling of critical vital signs or data logging capabilities. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but just remark on how I see it.

 

Good points. I'm just making this for myself and a few buddies so I'm not too worried about appeasing the masses with advanced features - although I might just for fun. I can upgrade the software anytime I want if I leave the USB cable accessible. As far as installation, the switch panel and harness use a standard 2x9 header with 2.54 pin spacing. I was able to use a header and connector housing I had laying around to make a OEM-like connection just like Ian's module - no splicing needed. Right now I'm using a cable with connectors at the end, but I can get rid of it entirely just like Ian's later designs. What you see is just a breadboard mock-up. I'm already working on a miniature design on a printed circuit board using an arduino nano, then eventually just the atmega chip if I ever wanted to make more than just a handful. It will fit behind the switch panel no problem. I wanna get this in my Mini already!

For latching things like fog lights, I meant that they stay on during re-start. I can already control the front/rear fog as well as the locks. It's just a matter of writing some code to remember the last state, then either turning them on or keeping them off at start-up. I have my front fog lights on a separate circuit, so I might use that switch for something else.. maybe a garage door opener or to control my dash-cam.

This module only simulates what you can do on the switch panel, so it wouldn't have access to anything on the BCM or ECU directly. No logging capabilities possible. But I have been playing with an Arduino ICAN module to see what I can do with that - maybe intercept the steering control buttons. Not sure what else yet. I was just excited to get this working for now

 

my JCW has auto down/up.. but interestingly only works when the doors are closed. You cannot activate the auto up/down until the door is closed, then functions. **as well.. the FOB will only let the windows down..and cannot roll them up or close the sunroof either.



#miniQuirks

 

You can change that using NCSExpert! I don't recall the exact setting but it's in there - I enabled it on my driver side. This module will do that too.

 

I finally got around to shrinking the project onto a prototyping board. I'm only using about 60% of the board.. once I trim it up it should only be about 2x2". I'm using pin and header connections to avoid building cables. I've use it on a few trips and so far no problems. Passenger auto up/down and disable DSC on startup are enable on this unit. I'll test this for a few weeks while I work on adding the driver side, then some programmable options either via switch combinations or using a wifi module like the esp8266 with an ajax web server.



Without harness attached



How it would look installed with harness (got it off ebay to ensure proper fit before installing on my mini)

 

I like your idea of using a proto board to avoid making a harness. Can you please show us the wiring side of the proto board?

 

Haven't updated this in a while. I'm pretty much done with this project and moved on to working on CANBUS based projects.

Functionality:

• Single click - Driver and Passenger Up/Down
• Double Click - Both driver and passenger automatic up/down at the same time (clicking once during movement stops both)
• Automatic DSC/traction control off at startup
• Automatic front/rear fog light when you turn on the headlight

All features can be turned on/off easily by holding door unlock (enable) and lock (disable) while clicking any button you want to enable. Example, hold door lock up + click driver window up once will enable driver side auto up. Double clicking driver up will enable dual mode up (driver + passenger auto up on double click). I gotta say the double click function is awesome to use

Here's a quick video showing dual up/down as well as single up/down. I also have a quick shot of my CANBUS shift light. I had the mount 3D printed and it came out pretty well. I have the RPM displayed on the LCD as well as other information such as automatic dimming(with headlight on) and a logging mode. i'm working on adding more data points with a bigger LCD screen. I think I can pretty much replace the tach completely

 

you should do a couple and sell them

 

Awesome to see this! Any plans to release the arduino code (to Github, etc) and/or circuit layout?

 

I finally received my printed circuit boards. I soldered this one together pretty quickly just to make sure it worked - everything tested perfect on the bench. I'm gonna install it today and start putting some miles on it! I have two of the five boards spoken for already.. I might bring some to the next mini meet in SoCal if anyone's interested. Not sure if there's much of a demand for it so I'll wait and see before ordering more boards. Its been a fun process though, now I can start finalizing my CANBUS shift light.

 

 

I'll be making another batch.. here's v2. These are also firmware upgradeable, so new features can be added by uploading a HEX file via the USB port. I plan on adding support for right hand drivers soon. It'll swap the double up/down switch from the left side to the right.


AutoUpV2

 

 

I'm also interested in one, when you make the next batch

 

 

2 questions:
1) what's the buzzer do?
2) would you consider selling a kit? I'm always looking for soldering projects.

I have had an Ian Cull auto up circuit for several years but it has an odd side effect. the front fog light toggle and the drivers side window seem to interfere with each other.
for example, if I double up-click the window, the front fog lamps turn on or off. I like the idea of USB upgrades and the double auto-up!

 

Sorry, I must have missed this reply. The buzzer is used to confirm settings while you're programming the module. This way you ensure whatever setting you click was accepted by the unit. It doesn't beep other than that. I'm not sure why Ian's module would interfere with the fog light like that, they're totally separate pins. I suspect it may be a manufacturing fault where he accidentally joined two output pins together. All switches are on their own dedicated pins, so it would be difficult to control two functions accidentally. The driver side window open pin is #11 and the rear fog light pin is #12 / front #13 - so this scenario is possible.

I've thought about selling just the PCB and all parts to someone willing to solder it on their own, but until I simplify the design a little bit more, I'd probably advise against it. Troubleshooting any faults would require my schematics and a debugger I wrote to test all pins on my test bench. I wouldn't be able to guarantee reliability

 

I was able to complete units. I'll have 4 more ready as soon as I get more chips in. I'll contact those of you that messaged me with interest

 

I've uploaded two videos showing how to attach the module to the switch panel, and how to program the module.

Install

Programming

I can make a video showing how to remove the switch panel if needed.

 

I received socalva's module in the mail earlier this week, workmanship and build quality look good. He sent it out quickly and the board was packed very securely for shipping.

I'm going to try to install it this weekend, carb rebuild progress and weather pending.

 

ENDORSEMENT here: Solcalva used my MC40 for Beta testing a 2004 model. The module works fantastically and I can't say enough about the convenience it adds (especially the DSC cancel feature). I agree with Derek 86 -- the workmanship is super and it's a simple plug & play.

 

I apologize for the delay, I put my car in storage over the winter and just got the install done today. I got the unit from socalva back in December, but that's life sometimes.

I did the install and played with some programming this evening. The unit, as mentioned before, is well built. I found it easy to program following the above video tutorials. I found the installation tedious, but that is more a commentary on the Mini itself than socalva's work. I removed the switch panel, HVAC controls and head unit to complete the install, I would recommend following the same steps. The unit may be able to be installed by just removing the switch panel, but it was tight and I did not want to bend any of the pins on the switch panel or the socalva unit. I did have an issue when first installed where my passenger window "up" button did not function at all. I made sure the connections were snug on the switch panel and that resolved the issue. The unit fits nicely behind the switch panel and does not interfere in any way with the HVAC unit above it.

The unit programs and functions as advertised. It's really easy to change the programming, and I love all the options that I have now! I found that if I hit the switches too quickly, or do not correctly time my double click for both windows to function, the unit does not respond. To clarify, we are talking around a one second delay between functions. For example, if I double tap the driver's window switch to lower both windows, I had to wait for a moment once the windows were down before I could double tap to put them both back up. I do not consider this a problem, just a small learning curve. I also left the individual window auto down features disabled because my car is programmed for that function already.

I Iike the new functionality included with this board, and the easy to program instructions are a great feature. The fact that I can change any of the options quickly and without taking the unit out of the car is awesome. I'll enjoy not switching off my traction contol every time I get in the car! And double tapping a single switch to drop both windows is a pretty nice feature.

I'd recommend this to anyone looking for the functionality since the old auto up units are out of production. Works great and is easy to program, just budget a little extra time to complete the installation carefully.

 

Thanks for the reviews guys! I'm glad everyone's happy with the new functionality. Just a comment on the pause after rolling your windows up/down, it's because the module mimics a switch press for 6 seconds to ensure the window rolls all the way up/down. If you need to use the window within the 6 seconds, just click the switch in the opposite direction - that will always cancel the current sequence and enters a ready state to accept any new commands. I'll add this information to the functionality list