Some time back I wired an auxiliary device that worked just fine, until today or recently.

As before, it still works fine with no key in the ignition, constant hot.
As before, it still works fine with the key in position one.
As before, it still works fine with the key in position two.

However, once the engine is running, it ceases to work.

With the engine running, if i turn-on the running lights, it powers-up. It stays on with headlights, but once all lights go off, it turns off. I then cut the engine off, and it turns on...

Any ideas?

 

you wired this to the lights and possibly just recently disabled DRLs. Just find a new source to tap into

 

That's the plan, to tap into a new source, but I was perplexed as to why or what would cause this device to not work when the engine is on, with no lights being powered. It works like a champ with no lights, and the engine off...

I never had DRLs enabled and honestly don't know how to do so anyways (enable / disable).

I had done some work on the car in the past day or so, some involving wiring, so I imagine that is the culprit. Was hoping to figure-out what might cause such an symptom...

 

You didn't say what you wired or where you wired it. How could anybody help?

 

rkw, I can certainly provide some details, and will do so. I was tight on time, being one reason.... I also just wanted to know in general terms.

If one wanted to wire-in a device to operate in this fashion, which I can't imagine anyone desiring, how would that be accomplished? A person saying: I want the device to work in all scenarios, except when the engine is running, and lights are off... No key in the ignition, no lights, works fine.

This is the device that I installed a couple years back:



http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PFA200/...ifier-WAdapter

I found that I was rarely using my radio, and simply played tunes from my phone, periodically at best. It worked beautifully, so much so that I removed my radio and related wiring, equipment up to the antenna. I put a couple gauges where the radio was located, a couple years ago, with no issues...

Since it was a while ago, I can't be certain where I got my 12 volts from. I can see that it goes under the carpet rearward down the tunnel, toward the shifter... I imagine I made some notes, as I had done with multiple other wiring projects. I'll try to find such. Recently moved, so many things still in boxes...

I recall driving during the day, a sunny one, no lights on, playing music over this device.

What type of alteration or change can be made that would now require that I must turn the lights on while driving for it to work? And if lights are such a factor, why would they not be needed when the engine is off?

 

Without that knowledge, it is impossible to understand what is happening electrically.

I'm still confused about the exact behavior you want, but it sounds like you need 3 signals:

1. always-on power -- available from the fuse box
2. switched (ignition) power -- available from the fuse box
3. lighting power (you can use interior illumination signal)

Feeding these into relays, you can create a logic circuit that outputs power according to the state of the 3 signals.

 

Thanks rkw. I never really explained what I wanted, but I believe I'll make that happen in a bit over my lunch break - finding a new 12 volt source. I think I still have an open "Add-A-Circuit" in the fuse area in the footwell...

I want it to operate as most or all radios, which I believe is in all instances or scenarios.

I clearly did something to cause this issue though, and being naturally curious, I want to figure-out what that is, so I can ideally undo or fix the problem...

I'll look again in a bit, and if I can't figure it out, I'll throw-in the towel and get 12 volts somewhere else...

Thank you rkw.

 

I think I got it...

I snipped the hot lead prior to the connector to the unit and got 12+ volts. Engine on, 14+. All good. I then looked at the connector, and one end was seemingly quite loose on the thin wire from the unit. I surmise that with the engine vibration, it makes for a bad connection. A simple twisting of the wires together has music with the engine on, no lights.

Nope. Doing the same again, one time requiring the headlights being on, the other time the running lights. Lights off, device off. I turn the engine off, device on. Goofy.

I wonder if it's too much input voltage when the engine is on, and turning on the lights helps with the drop. Engine on about 14.11/12v, device off. Turn-on running lights, voltage drops to 14.06/07, device turns on...

The manual for the unit states: input Power: DC 9 ~ 14.4V 2A

I bet it's going bad....

EDIT / ADD: Some confirmation... Letting the car idle, the voltage dropped, and music appeared. I got on the throttle, music gone. I suppose that would help me drive slower, lol. I'll check other hot leads, but I don't imagine that will help, should make no difference.