I need to replace my 07 R56 battery first time. Love to hear your recommendation. Thanks in advance..

 

I"m still on my original battery also, but when the time comes I'll just order an OEM unit from ECS Tuning. Last time I checked it was $147.

 

I had mine changed under warranty last year so even though I am over 50k I have a nearly new battery. What do you want to change it for? Do you just want to get an oem replacement or get a lighter one, smaller?

Sean

 

I got the Deka battery from a Battery One warehouse. 80 bucks installed but make sure the guy installing it (or you yourself) knows what they're doing and also plugs the unit into the 12V outlet to keep all your presets and stuff loaded. It's a size 24 I believe which is 1 higher than what they had in their manual, but that was the size that came out of it and I'm pretty sure it was the original battery (Mini brand, but I bought it used at 35k).

 

NAPA had a direct replacement, swapped it out myself. Make sure that you get a battery with vents to hook up. There is a small hose that hooks to the top of the battery to vent any gasses that generate, since the battery is not completely isolated from the interior.

Also, if the battery is significantly different than stock, there may be 'reprogramming' required. My SA told me that sometimes batteries don't charge right if they are higher or lower capacity than stock, but then told me that if there is not a problem, it is not required.

Mike

 

Not 100% positive, but I think that is only required if your MINI has the "intelligent battery monitoring" (indicated by the little black box on the battery cable). I think a dealership battery and "reprogramming" costs ~$500.

Replaced the battery on the "Ol' Lady's" Justa (60k miles) with this one a couple of months ago:

Interstate Batteries 730CCA

No IBM, no "reprogramming". Locally it was ~$160 w/tax. So far so good.

 

I purchased a "yellow top" Optima Gel Mat battery for my 2010 MCS. Despite having no battery connected for an hour or two, didn't lose any data except the trip meter reset itself to zero and the MPG and such started from scratch. Oddly, as I recall, even the time was still running accurately. I am very pleased with the battery. It is a nice fit, might be ¼ to ½ inch taller but isn't a problem except for the red plastic protecter on the + terminal pushes up slightly on the battery access door. I was going to do a mod but just decided to fold the red plastic piece back in a flat position and leave it at that. With the access door closed nothing will come in contact with the positive terminal so the risk of shorting or zapping it is pretty much nil. I printed out an internet discounted price and showed it to the clerk at Pep Boys and they honored it by knocking off $30. I bought another Optima a few weeks later at Auto Zone for my wife's Acura and they wouldn't honor any internet pricing for a price match but they did give me a 10% military discount. The Optima batteries don't require any venting, never need refilling, and come with a mounting step built into the packaging for (non MINI) other installations that might need more height. My BMW had an Optima that lasted for 15 years until a AAA guy jumped it with a big burst of energy and fried it.

 

I like the new AGM (gel) batteries. More durable and resistant to vibration and heat. Sears has a good one, save money by ordering online and picking up at the store. You want group 47.

 

Does anyone know who makes OEM batteries?
(I assume everyone knows BMW/MINI don't make batteries, or light bulbs, or oil, etc).

The last time I went car battery shopping ~15 years ago, BMW's OEM was Douglas. You could pay 2x at the dealer (and be shaken down for 1 hour labor to install it , or pay 50% of dealer rate retail at any of the usual car part stores.

I ended up getting an Optima battery across the street from the dealer, and installed it myself in their service bay in under 10 mins. The service adviser didn't even have the time ton complete his condescending lecture about "leaving it to the professionals" before I was in the car and on my way home.

a

 

My OEM battery is a Varta. I see that the OEM battery is no longer available from ECS Tuning. Might have to go with something else when mine fails.

 

I have had a bad experience with the Yellow Top. It died about two months after the warranty ran out--would not hold a charge at all. Several other people on the CRX boards reported similar problems with the yellow top Optimas.

On the other hand, my "other car" has had a red top for years and years with no problems so far. The car gets neglected for years at a time, and sits with the battery disconnected. I hook up the battery, and it cranks up and goes. I've even let it run pretty flat, and after a day on the charger it is good to go again.

A couple of data points for you...

 

There really isn't anything special. Some are lighter than others It is easier to match CCA then no ECU matching needs to take place as I understand. I also understand that if you don't have the "block" on the positive cable is isn't sensed, but I'm also told that the alternator acts by settings made about the battery. I don't know if it is factual or not. If it is true, the implication is that if the battery doesn't match what the ECU thinks, it can under or over charge depending on what ever difference there is in the properties of the new battery. I threw the recommended Autozone in mine and had them code it at the dealer when I was in for something else. No issues to speak of but I do use a battery tender on occasion to bring it back up to 100% due to my short commute.

 

If I ever have to replace my battery, I will use Odyssey PC1200MJT Group 47 AGM battery. I use two of these in my landcruiser- and they are tough! Sears Diehards are manufactured by same company that produces the Odyssey. It is no light weight! freaking heavy battery!

 

Drove up to O'Reilys - said I needed a new battery.
Guy pokes around on his computer and disappears for a minute.
Walks out to my MINI with a battery in his hands and installs it.
I pay the man and drive away.
How complicated is that?

 

Seriously!!

 

After replacing orielly battery 3 times in one year in my landcruiser- pretty damn complicated... especially when I am left stranded out in the middle of no mans land at night out of cell phone reach while feeding a swarm of blood thirsty mosquitoes. I wanted something that I could trust!

 

How close is this little black box to the end of the positive terminal?

 

Check this out. It might help you to identify stuff.

http://mini.sewellparts.com/oem-cata...R56S-2007.html

 

I'm more confused than before, I don't have any idea what it is I'm supposed to be looking for, also the part descriptions are cryptic and lack any info I can identify. Example what the h3ll is an IBS? A little over my head!

 

I think the IBS is the sensor part that is on some models that have a lot of electronics as options. Do you have the Chilton? It is covered in there too. My car doesn't have it so I've replaced that disk space with other pursuits! If you notice from the verbiage of #1 where is says 12427603567
Battery cable, negative, IBS / For vehicles with Brake Energy Regeneration = Yes or Navigation system Business = Yes or Navigation system Professional = Yes or Radio MINI Visual Boost = Yes or MINI navigation system = Yes
Production Split: From 03/10 Up To 03/11

I'll look at the Chilton when I get home and see what I can see about it from that and post up.

 

seems the oem served u well. no reason to change IMO.

 

IBS is intelligent battery sensor/system. Not all the cars have it. My car doesn't. If you do, there should be a small black box, smaller than a cigarette pack, about 3-6 inches from the end of the battery terminal wire. If you have it, you should have the dealer register the new battery. It is supposed to tell the car how to cycle charge a new battery compared to how it charges a worn battery.

 

I don't see anything attached to either cable.

 

OK... the IBS is the plastic chunk that is attached to the neg cable. In the Sewell drawing I linked to above, the #1 item is the IBS cable and the piece surrounding the actual terminal that slides over the post. From the manual - Bentley, not Chilton:

" The IBS microprocessor monitors and measures battery conditions such as termial voltage, charge/discharge current and temperature of the acid. The IBS constantly monitors battery SoC (State of Charge) even when the car is asleep. A wake-up signal is sent to the ECM if the SoC falls below a predetermined threshold. Upon Wakeup, the ECM switches off auxiliary electrical loads in order to preserve battery charge. There is a whole bunch of other information but suffice it to say, the IBS communicates battery information to the ECM and it acts according to the signals received. If the IBS is bad, the whole neg cable is replaced (~$300).

 

Seriously...
It forever amazes me the number of threads trying to make replacing a battery turn in to rocket surgery.