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Actual Amp Wiring Questions...

  #1  
Old 04-27-2004, 03:33 PM
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I tried searching on the topic of amp wiring but come across the same general stuff . I need some help please, or a point in the right direction. :smile: I have a very basic question...

-I will be replacing the (non-HK, no nav) factory head unit. That is simple enough. I've ordered the adaptors from newministuff.co.uk.
-I will be replacing the four main factory speakers. No problem.
-Where I run into questions is when adding an amp to the system. I understand how the amp has to be wired as far as power, ground, and line outs from the head unit go to the amp, but then what? Do I need to re-wire all speakers? Run new wire from the amp out to the speakers? Or does it run from the amp speaker outs back to the head unit and then out to all the speakers (not requiring new speaker wiring)?

MUCH appreciated!
 
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Old 04-27-2004, 03:59 PM
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There are 6 factory speakers...

Yes you have to run new speaker wire.

Rear Speakers. run the wire from the amp to the speakers.

Front speakers. No one has figured out how to run new wire through the door grommets. So you have to tap into the factor speaker wire under the dash. You can do that near the door or near the HU.
 
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Old 04-27-2004, 04:01 PM
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Check the link in my sig for my audio install page. Lots of pics and even a wiring diagram.

Short version: Assuming you're going to put the amp(s) either in the boot or under the front seat(s), the easiest thing to do is wire the new rear speakers with new cable, directly from the amp. For the fronts, run cables from the amp to behind the head unit where you'll spilce them into the factory front speaker cables. This is easiest method because getting new speaker cable through the loom where the door hinges are is a real pain (I thought so anyway).
 
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Old 04-27-2004, 04:03 PM
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>>Front speakers. No one has figured out how to run new wire through the door grommets.

Not quite true - a few have done it. But it involved drilling some holes in the loom connectors once you've gotten them apart, and then fishing the new cable through. Not an easy task.
 
  #5  
Old 04-27-2004, 04:23 PM
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I re-ran all the wires to both the front and rear speakers and it's true that the front is PITA but doable. :smile:
 
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Old 04-27-2004, 04:41 PM
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OK I was wrong.. I had not noticed any success stories about it.
 
  #7  
Old 04-27-2004, 10:19 PM
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Thanks for the straight answers.

scooterboy, great write ups- very detailed with pics. Very helpful!!! I like your faceplate fake. What do you think about using speaker baffles (I see you used polyfill)? Are those Infinity Kappa 63.5i's? Front and back? How do you like them? And with a 1/2" spacer on the fronts they don't rub the door panel cover? I was considering those.

davecsumini, how did you rewire the fronts through the door? How hard was it/ how much extra time did it take (are we talking 3 hours or 1?)? Is it worth it to improve the speaker wire?

Thanks!

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  #8  
Old 04-28-2004, 05:23 AM
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>>I re-ran all the wires to both the front and rear speakers and it's true that the front is PITA but doable. :smile:

What gauge speaker cable did you use?
 
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:40 AM
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>>Thanks for the straight answers.
>>
>>scooterboy, great write ups- very detailed with pics. Very helpful!!! I like your faceplate fake. What do you think about using speaker baffles (I see you used polyfill)? Are those Infinity Kappa 63.5i's? Front and back? How do you like them? And with a 1/2" spacer on the fronts they don't rub the door panel cover? I was considering those.

Rears are indeed the Infinity Kappa 693.5i's. The fronts are Infinity Reference 6000cs components. I like the sound a lot, but I really think the key is using sound deadener not only to seal the enclosures, but also to line the speaker with when mounting it to prevent any rattling or metal-on-metal buzzing. I prefer polyfill to baffles, but that's subjective.

If you look at the stock front speaker housing, you'll see that it extends a full 1.25" from the mounting surface:



So a spacer of only 1/2" actually provides more clearance from the door panel than the stock speaker does. To clear the lowered window, the spacer thickness needs to be at least equal to the speaker mounting depth minus 1.75". So theoretically you could use speakers with a mounting depth of 3" and a 1.25" spacer and still have the same clearance as the stock speaker.
 
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Old 04-29-2004, 05:17 PM
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I also ran new speaker wires into the front doors. I only used 16 AWG, but I ran 2 sets per door, 1 for the 6.5 and the other for the tweet. I would have and could have fit 2 runs of 12 AWG, but I did not have any with me and it was a Sunday, so nobody was open. I used a 1/2" drill bit to drill through the factory Molex connection. It is a REAL pain in the ***. If you are not running high end equipment, it is not something you should even attempt. Just find the factory amp and cut the output speaker leads and tap into them. That will save you many hours of cursing. While you are in there, I would recommend dynamating the doors. Good luck!
 
  #11  
Old 04-30-2004, 05:45 PM
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I had to drill through the factory plastic Molex connection like rocman did. I belive I used a single pair of 12 or 14 AWG wire that is connected to a passive crossover in the door to split the signals to the 6.5" dirver and the tweeter. I'm not sure if I would do that again, given the chance. It's a lot easier to tap the signal at the kickpanels and use the factory wires to transmit the signal to the door. :smile:


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Old 04-30-2004, 10:06 PM
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Yeah, I checked out the Molex and I think I'll go ahead and skip that and save myself a headache. Of course I plan on putting Dynamat Xtreme throughout the entire car. I do want to do this right. :smile: I'm just waiting for all elements to arrive... oh, and the car- that would help. I hope to do the install next Sunday & Monday- I hope two days is enough. I'm going with Infinity Kappas all around (hope it all fits) with a Phoenix Gold amp and the hooty tooty AVIC-N1 head unit. I plan to really document everything well in the hopes of turning it into a DIY article as others have done. I find it such a help to see actual photos and notes from someone who has done it before!

Anyway, another audio install question... where is the best place to install the speaker crossovers? I noticed after washing my car once then removing the panel to get to the speaker that water definitely gets into where the front speakers are on the MINI. So where's a safe place for the crossovers?

Thanks everyone for the helpful input!

 
  #13  
Old 05-01-2004, 02:19 AM
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When installing the crossover inside the door panel, sealing the unit from moisture might be a good idea, although most crossovers are fairly water tight. Besides the inner door panel, other option is inside of the kick panel, where 2 sets of factory speaker wires are located for ease of connection. Depending on the size of the crossover, the kick panel should be able to accommodate it. Other location like under the driver or passenger seats would be ideal, but 2 sets of wires are needed post-crossover instead of just one.

In order for the GPS to calculate the mileage properly, the speed sensor wire must be connected. Do you know where to tap into the factory speed sensor?


 
  #14  
Old 05-01-2004, 11:12 AM
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This is all I have found for the speed sensor wire:
Drivers sill (reverse sides in US) speed pulse - cant remember colour but in 3 pin plug

If you have any more detailed info or pics, that would help!
 
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Old 05-01-2004, 08:54 PM
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There's room for Infinity crossovers behind each door card just rearward of the woofer locations. Works out perfectly.
 
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