Went to change a headlight today and the plastic connector on the harness where it plugs into broke into about 5 pieces I'm afraid of the wires touching so I'm guessing I'll need to replace it. Got it taped up and rolling without for now. Any ideas where I can find the part and any tips on replacing it? I'm okay with electronics and it doesn't look like too big of a job.
Here are some details: 2004 base r50 with standard headlights, low-beam, passenger side.
Thanks in advance
J

 

I did a web search for Mini Cooper Headlight Connector and found these:

http://www.partsgeek.com/k67nw6h-min...ight+Connector

http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...r-Pigtail.html

Can also search for companies that sell aftermarket headlight bulbs because they frequently sell headlight connectors/wires that can handle more heat/power for high wattage bulbs. Such as:

http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/hewiha.html

 

Thanks, mang

 

Got the replacement part (second on the list above) and a butt-style connector for splicing (matched to the gauge of wire coming off it). However it looks like the replacement part's wire is around 12 gauge and the original wire from the car looks something like 18-20, maybe. I'm not super well-versed in this kind of wiring, will this be a problem?
Thanks-
J

 

The reason for the larger wires on the headlamp connector is to actually draw heat out of the terminal. Leave as much of the larger gauge wire on the new headlamp connector as possible. Typically you will find the plastic either melted or darkened around the ground terminal because it will always be drawing current regardless of whether or not the low beam or high beam is on. Unfortunately, I have done the research on this for a previous job. It just didn't make sense to me that a 55watt bulb, that draws less than five amps, could melt the plastic headlamp connector. Once I figured out that the heat from the bulb filament plus the heat that is generated as a result of the current flow across the connector was the root cause, the simple solution was to increase the wire size to draw heat out of the connector and thus prevent the melted connectors. All I can say is that the simple wire change made a huge difference in the test vehicles and in warranty. A year later (and the subsequent ten years) the problem has completely disappeared.

I hope that helps....

 

As db.Cooper said the thicker (samller gauge number) wire is better.

 

Hey guys, I noticed they only go up to 2007, any idea where I could pick up a 2009 connector mine is melted down, I guess the guy b4 me had some High Watt bulbs in there

 

You can look up the parts diagrams at:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/
You can contact one of the OEM parts distributors such as:
www.ecstuning.com/
www.waymotorworks.com
www.pelicanparts.com
www.penskeparts.com

 

Thank u quikmni

 

Just answered here.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-check-in.html

 

Yes sir, ECS thank u

 

Welcome.

 

Hello all
my plastic connectors went broken as well as the cover to the cables.. its flaking off and revealing the metals... is there a BMW part number or how do i replace the cables as well? is it a big job? thanks ...

 

Click on the link above for the harness part #'s , post # 10 on this thread. For replacement , some basic wire / electrical tools would be needed.

 

I apologize for bumping an old thread but figured it better to keep info consolidated.

My left headlight, on my 2003 base with halogens, went out the other night and I ended up having to drive home with the brights on as I swapped the high beam bulb with the low bulb and it still didn't work. After testing with a multimeter the next morning; for whatever reason - the low beam line isn't getting any power. I swapped the female ends about a year ago with ceramics. Currently have it rigged up where the bright feed on the left side is powering the low beam via jumper wires and I just unplugged the right side high beam and have no operational high beams. I followed the lines into the fender on the right hand side, looks like they go through the forward part of the door jam.

My question to you all; does anyone have any idea as to where these wires end up? And possibly a diagram?