Show me some pictures of how you routed your harnesses and mounted your ballasts.

Also... I ordered a so called "Bi Xenon" kit. The high beams don't do anything. It looks like a standard H13 bulb. I had the company send me another set and they are exactly the same... the box does say Bi Xenon. Any ideas?

 

I ended up ordering a single beam only bulbs from ebay which plug and played into my old car's slim hid kit and they work just fine. No harnesses involved. And no i have not used my high beams once ever since the install (back in february) and i doubt i will ever use my high beams; if anything i'll honk like a mf'er or something.

 

There are only two ways to make a hi/lo xenon - with a shutter/actuator that moves the bulb or covers it/uncovers or with a secondary bulb.

The secondary bulb route isn't bad because when you flash your beams if your HIDs are off, it's less wear on the xenon circuit. As for calling it bi-xenon, that's a crock.

P

 

I ordered a "bi-xenon" kit from ebay and after hooking it up, ran across a lot of problems. It had the harness to power of the battery. It only plugged into one headlight harness so i was getting the light out notification. they flickered, would pulse like a rave when i started the car, etc. I ordered an other set last week and just installed them last night. These are the hid low and halogen high. basically the highbeam is useless as the halogen light doesnt really do much. I ordered the 55w kit to try and compensate for not having high beams. This kit came with just the spades to plug into the factory headlight harness. I had to trim them a little to get them to fit. This kit seems to be working good. No bulb out warnings. I also have a plug and play hid fog light kit and that works great.

 

sorry i guess i didnt really answer the OP question. I ran all the wires inside the headlight bezel. put the ballast and all wiring in there. for the fogs i zip tied to whatever i could find down there.

 

Are you guys referring to an R56 with H13 sockets? The BiXenon bulb should have 2 sets of leads coming off it. One high voltage set (silicon thick wires) and one low voltage set (to actuate the relay in the bulb). There should be a harness that draws power from the battery. This powers both sides. What the harness does is keep the lowbeam energized while the highbeams are actuated. If you don't have some kind of harness and your bulbs only have 2 leads you don't have a bixenon kit.

The harness control plug goes into one side's open headlight socket. This side is not drawing enough to avoid a bulbout warning light so you are getting a bulbout warning from both sides (the open connector and the one connected to the harness). Make sure you scraped the paint away from the ground and grease it so the harness ground connection stays clean and reliable (should help with the flicker if it is voltage related). The hot side of the harness goes straight to the battery (route the wire outside the seam under the plastic, no drilling needed).

You can eliminate the bulbout warning a couple of different ways. The high tech way is to use a $120.00 cable and a computer program to reprogram the car to not conduct the bulb check (plenty of threads on that subject). The low tech way is to add 4 resistors between low beam hot and ground and high beam hot and ground on both sides (these are the outer conductors on the headlight socket, center is ground, or use the chassis to ground it). The resistor size is 6 ohm 50 watt and are really common on ebay for this purpose. The resistors go for about 12.00 a pair with leads and splices included.

 

My new install is in this thread w/pics: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=hid+fog