Electrical Check Engine light
Check Engine light
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]I'm working in making my Mini an hybrid one. Gas/Hydro.
I already finish my dry cell installation work in my Mini Cooper S 2005. All the system is perfectly mounted, Dry cell, reservoir/bubbler, switches,flashback arrestor, etc. I mounted 2 O2 sensor spacers because some friends of the forums told me that my mini does'nt have an map/maf sensor. At the beginning I connected the HHO line to the intake but later I made a T connection and connected to a vacuum line too. All this done with all precautions check valves , etc. The problem is that , now the check engine light is on. I need a little help here. I don't know if I can use a map/maf enhancer to control the voltage from the O2 sensor?? please, help me in here.
What can I do ???
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Sincerely,[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Juan Rodriguez[/SIZE][/FONT]
I already finish my dry cell installation work in my Mini Cooper S 2005. All the system is perfectly mounted, Dry cell, reservoir/bubbler, switches,flashback arrestor, etc. I mounted 2 O2 sensor spacers because some friends of the forums told me that my mini does'nt have an map/maf sensor. At the beginning I connected the HHO line to the intake but later I made a T connection and connected to a vacuum line too. All this done with all precautions check valves , etc. The problem is that , now the check engine light is on. I need a little help here. I don't know if I can use a map/maf enhancer to control the voltage from the O2 sensor?? please, help me in here.
What can I do ???
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Sincerely,[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Juan Rodriguez[/SIZE][/FONT]
Bluntly?
take all that stuff out.....
But if you insist on doing this, then there are a couple of things you;re going to run into:
1) you have to plumb it such that you're not really screwing the manifold vacuum that you pull. That will register as a vacuum leak and throw the code.
2) while I thought that this was total bogus BS when someone else PMed me about it, after reading a lot about the technology, there is some merit with a few caveats: First is that the amount of gas you have to get into the system is relatively large relative to most DIY systems provide, such that most systems just enrich the eBay sellers that make them. Second is that all the credible studies that have done this don't take into account the energy cost of creating the gasses that are burned, so the energy "gain" is questionable at best.
Anyway, if you're going to do stuff like this, get a code scanner to see what the engine computer is telling you. FWIW, the car runs on a "speed-density" system (that's why there's no MAF sensor...) so finding a bit more out about how the engine is run before you start hacking it is probably time well spent.
Matt
But if you insist on doing this, then there are a couple of things you;re going to run into:
1) you have to plumb it such that you're not really screwing the manifold vacuum that you pull. That will register as a vacuum leak and throw the code.
2) while I thought that this was total bogus BS when someone else PMed me about it, after reading a lot about the technology, there is some merit with a few caveats: First is that the amount of gas you have to get into the system is relatively large relative to most DIY systems provide, such that most systems just enrich the eBay sellers that make them. Second is that all the credible studies that have done this don't take into account the energy cost of creating the gasses that are burned, so the energy "gain" is questionable at best.
Anyway, if you're going to do stuff like this, get a code scanner to see what the engine computer is telling you. FWIW, the car runs on a "speed-density" system (that's why there's no MAF sensor...) so finding a bit more out about how the engine is run before you start hacking it is probably time well spent.
Matt
That's what I thought at first..
but the idea isn't to make more energy than is available in the gas, it's to use the energy more efficiently by allowing more timing advance. There has been some work on a few systems that shows benefit, but only running 5%-15% total flow of OH or H2 (whatever) of the air that's normally injested. These volumes are so large that they're run off of bottles and not on board generators, but like I said earlier, the benefit math doesn't take into account the energy costs of creating the gas in the first place.
One guy on the ecogreen forums used about 10% of his pickup bed to create the gasses and is claiming some benefit, when run closed loop (that is with the electricity coming from the alternator), but I'm skeptical at best. Many on line converts claim you can only get full benefit when you advance the timing via ECU tuning...
Really, I think there are better ways to get power or efficiency from the engine....
But once again, if you're gonna mess with stuff like this without knowing how the engine works (has MAP sensor, doesn't have MAF sensor) or use a code scanner, the odds are already stacked against you getting anywhere but wasting time.
Matt
One guy on the ecogreen forums used about 10% of his pickup bed to create the gasses and is claiming some benefit, when run closed loop (that is with the electricity coming from the alternator), but I'm skeptical at best. Many on line converts claim you can only get full benefit when you advance the timing via ECU tuning...
Really, I think there are better ways to get power or efficiency from the engine....
But once again, if you're gonna mess with stuff like this without knowing how the engine works (has MAP sensor, doesn't have MAF sensor) or use a code scanner, the odds are already stacked against you getting anywhere but wasting time.
Matt
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