When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Electrical Retrofitting the factory self dimming rearview mirror + Homelink
ElectricalFor discussions regarding wiring up electrical modifications such as radar detectors, brake light mods, power sockets, and driving lights in Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.
Think its the inner section, where the pin goes , the head size looks the same on most and the insert pin is a different size. Measure both if you have them. Then I can figure it out.
its like 0.2mm to 0.5mm squared and then 0.75mm squared, and 1mm squared sizes. Some pins are even bigger then that. I guess measure the male pin also width.
i see on the ECS website the wiring is no longer available, but wondering if I have what I need to install this to my 2013 base cooper that didn't come with autodimming
We were waiting for someone who bought that wire kit so I can source the parts through the BMW / MINI hardware section and make a kit so people can continue to do this mod.
We were waiting for someone who bought that wire kit so I can source the parts through the BMW / MINI hardware section and make a kit so people can continue to do this mod.
Hi, I'm just stepping into this thread to say I'll be in line for this kit too as soon as it's available from ECS! I just bought the mirror last week from you but need the wiring. I've been looking around online for several days but no one at all seems to have it anywhere.
undid my factory manual dim rear view mirror, which had the plug, and plugged in the autodimming and tested it with a flashlight lol, didn't autodim. was hoping it'd be that simple.
what do i need to use the wires and and all that stuff for...?
undid my factory manual dim rear view mirror, which had the plug, and plugged in the autodimming and tested it with a flashlight lol, didn't autodim. was hoping it'd be that simple.
what do i need to use the wires and and all that stuff for...?
You'll need to add power.
I have attached a scan of the autodim mirror retrofit instructions from MINI. It has a few part numbers here and there, not sure if it's enough for @ECSTuning to identify the needed parts.
That helps bratling , i needed the plug end size and the range for the box end with the length of the wire , I found this which covers female box end ply with clip that takes a range from 0.2-0.5mm2 pin. The range from the diagram looks like 0.35mm2 to 0.50mm2 , so the box head is within range.
The wires already have the box end plug clipped on. So 4 of these wires ( 61130005197 ), 2 of each wire doubling the length when connected end to end.
That helps bratling , i needed the plug end size and the range for the box end with the length of the wire , I found this which covers female box end ply with clip that takes a range from 0.2-0.5mm2 pin. The range from the diagram looks like 0.35mm2 to 0.50mm2 , so the box head is within range.
The wires already have the box end plug clipped on. So 4 of the these wires , 2 of each wire doubling the length when connected end to end.
What is the lead length on these? Want to be sure they'll make it the entire run from the box to the mirror.
Just took delivery of a '12 S w/o autodimming or homelink, first DIY mod to break her in
What is the lead length on these? Want to be sure they'll make it the entire run from the box to the mirror.
Just took delivery of a '12 S w/o autodimming or homelink, first DIY mod to break her in
Pretty long, about 2 foot , but I don't have the length of the originals. With some simple gauge wire form a electronic store you could connect the ends , then measure and cut a piece to splice in the middle , guessing about 4 foot total from end to end but I would get more just to be sure.
Pretty long, about 2 foot , but I don't have the length of the originals. With some simple gauge wire form a electronic store you could connect the ends , then measure and cut a piece to splice in the middle , guessing about 4 foot total from end to end but I would get more just to be sure.
Thanks!
Side note: how can you tell which mirror is right for your key fob frequency???
Update: I have successfully completed this retrofit!
Notes:
- I bought a used homelink autodimming mirror off ebay, great condition.
- My key fobs worked afterwards when testing
- I bought the wire leads ECS recommended (you need four total). I had to solder wire extensions in between to get the proper length. I also used the OEM cloth tape to create a harness and colored electrical tape to identify wires.
- Running the wire down there is tedious but I have done it many times for hardwiring radar detectors. Trim tool is helpful.
- Removing and reinstalling the mirror takes some muscle, that sucker is on there!
- I followed the OEM retrofit PDF for the pin outs. The mirror connection wasn't bad. The fuse block is a huge PITA. You have to remove most of the lower door well plastic molding to access the lower connector.
- All pin outs require you to pop up flaps or remove the connector from it's socket so to be speak to insert the pins. A jeweler's screwdriver set is very handy.
I tested by first making sure the fobs worked before I put all panels back on etc. I then waiting until the evening, and pulled our Acadia behind the car with the high beams on. The photocell sensor faces reward, if you hold your finger over it, you can see it "un-dim" and then expose it to the headlights, it dims itself.
Overall, I'm very pleased and so is my wife who drives the car. She goes into work early and the headlights in her eyes on her 30 minute commute were obnoxious. She didn't care about the homelink but I wanted it to get back the spare garage door opener.
Update: I have successfully completed this retrofit!
Notes:
- I bought a used homelink autodimming mirror off ebay, great condition.
- My key fobs worked afterwards when testing
- I bought the wire leads ECS recommended (you need four total). I had to solder wire extensions in between to get the proper length. I also used the OEM cloth tape to create a harness and colored electrical tape to identify wires.
- Running the wire down there is tedious but I have done it many times for hardwiring radar detectors. Trim tool is helpful.
- Removing and reinstalling the mirror takes some muscle, that sucker is on there!
- I followed the OEM retrofit PDF for the pin outs. The mirror connection wasn't bad. The fuse block is a huge PITA. You have to remove most of the lower door well plastic molding to access the lower connector.
- All pin outs require you to pop up flaps or remove the connector from it's socket so to be speak to insert the pins. A jeweler's screwdriver set is very handy.
I tested by first making sure the fobs worked before I put all panels back on etc. I then waiting until the evening, and pulled our Acadia behind the car with the high beams on. The photocell sensor faces reward, if you hold your finger over it, you can see it "un-dim" and then expose it to the headlights, it dims itself.
Overall, I'm very pleased and so is my wife who drives the car. She goes into work early and the headlights in her eyes on her 30 minute commute were obnoxious. She didn't care about the homelink but I wanted it to get back the spare garage door opener.
I don't know for sure, but am guessing ~3-4 feet. I went a tad longer than needed but it came in handy at the fuse block as you need to be installing the pins in two separate harnesses.
Update: I have successfully completed this retrofit!
This is great! I'm hoping to get mine done soon as well. I have a mirror that will hopefully work and was just waiting on the wiring. In fact, I just got 4 sets of wires (that ECSTuning linked above) in the mail today but looking at them, they will definitely need the extension in the middle as you added. The wires out of the package are about 20 inches long each. What kind of wire did you splice in?
Thanks for the order. I would use the same gauges wire if your splice to add line. Measure it with a wire gauge. Then you can get additional wire at any electrical store.
The wires out of the package are about 20 inches long each. What kind of wire did you splice in?
Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Thanks for the order. I would use the same gauges wire if your splice to add line. Measure it with a wire gauge. Then you can get additional wire at any electrical store.
I believe the leads are 20 gauge, I used some 18 gauge I had a spool of. Soldered all connections with heat shrink tubing.