I'm planning my V1 hardwire in my 08 MCS. Based on the other threads I've found, I'd like to do the following:

• Hardwire using the "add-a-circuit" in the passenger footwell fusebox using the cigarette lighter fuse
• Mount the V1 to the right side of the mirror like in Minidrivr's post and run the wiring down the A-pillar to the fusebox
• Mount the V1 remote display in a gauge pod to the left of the tach. I plan to run the accessory wire from the V1 hardwire splitter (stashed in the fusebox) to the gauge pod similar to celica414's GPS wiring

I'm a little confused about running the wire up the A-Pillar. I'm not sure which side of the A-pillar to use? Do I need to remove the A-pillar cover or just tuck the wire in?

Thanks

 

Just a word of warning, the add-a-circuit doesn't fit behind the fuse box cover when you use the cig lighter fuse. I modified the cover by triming part of the back of it to fit but it still stuck out slightly.

I ended up using the Park Distance Control fuse, which is a feature I don't have, to power the V1. I mounted the V1's power block with the double stick right next to the fuse block. You'll need the smaller add-a-circuit if you want to use the PDC fuse.

I followed the green line down the windshield side of the A-pillar. I just tucked the wire behind the edge with my fingers and a large "zip-tie" when my fingers didn't work. It's a little tricky when the wire makes the turn at the headliner. Keep the power cord flat and it should slide right behind. Once it's down to the dash level, I used the large zip-tie to fish the wire down from there under the dash to the fuse block. With that end piece off the dash, it's really easy. I did it without taking that piece off but have done this in another Mini and pulled that whole end cap off like in your picture. You can fish the wire flat from the windshield back towards the end cap. Once there, you can push it down behind the glovebox.

I used that screw on the right side of the open glovebox for the ground. I don't use the remote display so I'm not sure how that wires in.

 

I'm confused...

Why would you want to run wiring from the fuse panel and up through the A-pillar when there's a perfectly good switched +12volt line available in the upper switch/light console, just a few inches away from where you want to mount your radar detector? You don't have to mess with the fusebox, A-pillar, headliner, etc.

Nicely documented in:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=107415

If that's really what you want to do, well, have fun, but it seems like a lot more work than needed.

 

.... so the plug for the remote display is down in the general vicinity of the remote display....

 

I'm not cutting into the factory wiring, that's why. It took less time for me to run the wire down to the fuse box than it would have to solder the wiring up in the ceiling. It literally took me less than 2 minutes to run the wire down. That's less than what it takes for my soldering gun to heat up.

And what BlmeyCabrio said. If I want to add a remote display, audio adapter, or remote mute button, I need to to plug into the V1's power block. If I had used the ceiling power, that would require running a wire up there anyway.

 

Makes perfect sense, thanks -- the detector I have doesn't have a remote, so the extra cabling isn't needed.

 

Thanks for the help! Yup, I figure I need to make a run down the a-pillar either way with the remote and I like the cleaner add-a-circuit instead of the splice component that valentine provides. I'll try it this week and use the PDC fuse with the mini add-a-circuit. I'll post some follow up pics when everything is finished.

 

Having the V1 switch off immediately is also a plus when leaving it mounted while parked. Having it go off while the car is trying to go to sleep might draw the attention of someone who would break the glass and grab the V1.
The cigar lighter circuit switches off with the key.
Also remember when mounting the V1, the rear sensor needs a clear view out the back glass.

 

The V1 also switches on/off with the ignition when using the park distance control fuse, just like the cig lighter fuse.

 

I completed the install this weekend using the PDC. It works and looks great. Thanks for the help Minidrivr! I'll post some pics tonight.

 

Great! Looking forward to the pictures!

 

Here's the method I used...

 

Great writeup!

 

Nice writeup Wolos! I was concerned about the process until I read it (pics definately help). I am getting the parts this week and will undertake it this weekend. Did you test the add-a-circuit to see if the V1 turned off when the fuse was removed? I read somewhere else there was a concern about shorting out the car if the circuit was not installed correctly??? Also, did you have to cut or alter the fusebox cover?

 

I tested it with the PDC fuse removed and the v1 didn't work, so I knew the add-a-circuit was in backwards. I flipped it and it worked. I think the back of the add-a-circuit box has the instructions.

With the mini add-a-circuit I didn't need to modify the fuse box cover. Good luck.

 

I chose PathA as in the original post. I ran it all the way down to the footwell behind the weatherstrip as pictured. I then fed it behind the back edge of the fusebox trim panel to the fuse.

 

Is the add a fuse something I can get locally at a parts store? Or is this something you need to order online. I'm attempting to hardwire my Sirius Stratus IV

 

Autozone has Add-a-Circuits. You might try calling your local parts place to see. They were the only one of about 5 in my town that had them.

 

Thanks!

 

Can someone show a pic of where the add a circuit is crimped to the V1 power cable? I'm still a bit unsure about this step.

 

You use the V1 hardwire adapter - this thing:


And the add-a-circuit connects to the red wire. The black wire connects to a good ground. Then plug the V1 power cord into the hardwire adapter. Done.

 

Bonehead: since the V1 comes with a blue plastic prong plug and has a complementary part that's intended to splice into existing wiring, you can't exactly insert the add a circuit onto the prong. Since you're plugging right into the fuse box, you don't need this part—just cut the v1 stock part off and crimp the Add-a-Circuit on. Is that what you're asking about? (I found this attached pic of the blue prongs.)

The V1 also comes with an inline fuse. Since you're using an add-a-circuit which is also fused, you could also cut that off too. I left mine in though since double-fusing shouldn't hurt anything and I actually found that the "split" point came in handy when running the wires. You might actually need the extra wire length too.

 

... you could also just put the blue wire tap on the red wire from the add-a-circuit... then plug the V1 hardwire adapter into it... ugly and kinda unnecessary - but another way to do it...

 

Sorry, I'm just a visual kinda guy. What is the 'it' that the V1 hardwire adapter plugs into?

 

In SpinThis's photo, there is a blue plug that plugs into a darker blue wire tap that Valentine provides... So the darker blue wire tap could be used to tap into the add-a-circuit red wire. It's kinda silly and much less clean than just cutting the light blue plug off and crimping that wire onto the add-a-circuit... but it would work.