Just wanted to add after much research, not too useful, about where fuses are I finally started pulling them in order and visually inspecting them and discovered that the F5 fuse in the engine compartment is the one that controls the radiator fan.

We had the air conditioning cycling off, indicated by the air con button light flashing, in stop and go traffic when stopped.

Reading everything led me to believe that it was a faulty fan resistor, in the 1st generation Mini's the resistor is built into the fan housing and is prone to burning out because it is pretty exposed and I would guess too close to the engine block heat as well.

Bought a fan for about 175 euros, and yes that is nearly three times as expensive as you can get them in the US but better than the 400 euros the shop wanted.

Read up on changing the fan by pulling the front end off and thought to myself hey the plugs are very handy here on the top left corner of the radiator why don't I just plug in the new one there before I go through the grief of pulling it all apart and changing it. Nothing.

Now this made be go back and recheck all of the relays and the fuses that the info panels in the fuse covers indicate and various fuse charts.

Those were all good.

I think someone may have mentioned F5 as a possible culprit, but to be honest I read so many posts trying to figure this out that I forgot about it or imagined it.

The engine compartment fuse chart clearly indicates that it is F8 that is the radiator fan and has it at 30 amps, and it was good.

The F5 fuse that actually controlled it was upon systematic inspection of every fuse in the engine compartment a burned out 10 amp fuse.

Changed that to a 20 amp and Voila, it works now.

You will see in other threads that the way to test with air conditioning if the fan is cycling properly is just to turn on the air con and the low speed fan should come on either immediately or within a minute and cycle on and off thereafter at 104C or until the water gets to 120C and the high speed fan comes on.

Another telltale reason it was a fuse/relay issue was because the high speed fan never came on even when the radiator over flow pressure tank started over flowing with the air con on and the high temp. light on the instrument panel came on. The high speed fans almost never fail because even if the resistor may burn out for the low speed fan the high speed is on a separate circuit.

One thread somewhere mentioned that 5 amp fuses had been miss-installed by the factory instead of the 'correct' 10 amp fuse.

Another post pointed out that given the power draw/rating of the fan motor it should be 30 amps and since that is what the miss-marked fuse chart indicates instead of the 10 burned up one that I took out.

I have compromised and put in a 20 amp fuse in the F5 position for now to see if that is sufficient.

Finally if any one has any info on what one poster was suggesting was in development a couple of years ago about fuses that glow when they are burned out or bad....I would love to get a set....because with over fifty fuses and a high percentage that are miss-marked it sure would save a lot of grief and money.

Any one needing a fan for a 1st generation MCS, 2002-2003, in the EU can contact me.....

Cheers and thanks for all of the threads and posts on this chronic issue.

jj, geneva, switzerland

PS here are the links RE the F5 fuse I found.

http://www.mini2.com/forum/archive/i...p/t-11922.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...fans-fuse.html

It should be noted that there is a distinction between the 5 or 10 amp 7 blade fan with no air conditioning, and the 15amp 9 blade fan, with air conditioning.

Anyone with air conditioning, like ours, obviously needs at a minimum 15amps instead of the 10 amps that was in it.

 

Re-posting another good thread on these issues:

http://www.mini2.com/forum/maintenan...th-points.html

And adding my notes on the 1st generation 2002-2003 F5 fuse controlling the radiator fan and therefore also the air conditioning.

F5 Fuse in 2002 MSC controls the radiator fan Just wanted to add after much research, not too useful, about where fuses are I finally started pulling them in order and visually inspecting them and discovered that the F5 fuse in the engine compartment is the one that controls the radiator fan.

We had the air conditioning cycling off, indicated by the air con button light flashing, in stop and go traffic when stopped.

Reading everything led me to believe that it was a faulty fan resistor, in the 1st generation Mini's the resistor is built into the fan housing and is prone to burning out because it is pretty exposed and I would guess too close to the engine block heat as well.

Bought a fan for about 175 euros, and yes that is nearly three times as expensive as you can get them in the US but better than the 400 euros the shop wanted.

Read up on changing the fan by pulling the front end off and thought to myself hey the plugs are very handy here on the top left corner of the radiator why don't I just plug in the new one there before I go through the grief of pulling it all apart and changing it. Nothing.

Now this made be go back and recheck all of the relays and the fuses that the info panels in the fuse covers indicate and various fuse charts.

Those were all good.

I think someone may have mentioned F5 as a possible culprit, but to be honest I read so many posts trying to figure this out that I forgot about it or imagined it.

The engine compartment fuse chart clearly indicates that it is F8 that is the radiator fan and has it at 30 amps, and it was good.

The F5 fuse that actually controlled it was upon systematic inspection of every fuse in the engine compartment a burned out 10 amp fuse.

Changed that to a 20 amp and Voila, it works now.

You will see in other threads that the way to test with air conditioning if the fan is cycling properly is just to turn on the air con and the low speed fan should come on either immediately or within a minute and cycle on and off thereafter at 104C or until the water gets to 120C and the high speed fan comes on.

Another telltale reason it was a fuse/relay issue was because the high speed fan never came on even when the radiator over flow pressure tank started over flowing with the air con on and the high temp. light on the instrument panel came on. The high speed fans almost never fail because even if the resistor may burn out for the low speed fan the high speed is on a separate circuit.

One thread somewhere mentioned that 5 amp fuses had been miss-installed by the factory instead of the 'correct' 10 amp fuse.

Another post pointed out that given the power draw/rating of the fan motor it should be 30 amps and since that is what the miss-marked fuse chart indicates instead of the 10 burned up one that I took out.

I have compromised and put in a 20 amp fuse in the F5 position for now to see if that is sufficient.

Finally if any one has any info on what one poster was suggesting was in development a couple of years ago about fuses that glow when they are burned out or bad....I would love to get a set....because with over fifty fuses and a high percentage that are miss-marked it sure would save a lot of grief and money.

Any one needing a fan for a 1st generation MCS, 2002-2003, in the EU can contact me.....

Cheers and thanks for all of the threads and posts on this chronic issue.

jj, geneva, switzerland

PS here are the links RE the F5 fuse I found.

http://www.mini2.com/forum/archive/i...p/t-11922.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...fans-fuse.html

It should be noted that there is a distinction between the 5 or 10 amp 7 blade fan with no air conditioning, and the 15amp 9 blade fan, with air conditioning.

Anyone with air conditioning, like ours, obviously needs at a minimum 15amps instead of the 10 amps that was in it.

 

Anyone know about the R60 fuses. crap I have no idea what the icons are