I'm finally getting around (maybe ) to finishing my oem driving light install. I've hooked up everything but the connections to the radio, main fuse box, and body control module.
1. The instructions say I need to disconnect the battery - do I really ? It says refer to TIS 61 21 010 for how to do this. HUH??
2. Instructions say refer to TIS 65 11 030 to remove radio. What are these things? Or, how do I remove radio? :impatient
3. Instructions say "displace passenger side entrance cover strip for access to body control module". This is not real helpful. I have no idea what they are talking about.

You guys are always so good with answers......... (BTW, 3/2006 build R52)

 

Those TIS #'s are just instruction sheets. I would disconnect the battery just to be safe, but I'm pretty sure you aren't going to need instructions on how to do it.

Are you using these instructions? http://www.motoringfile.com/howto/Dr...Lights_902.pdf

 

I'm finally getting around (maybe ) to finishing my oem driving light install. I've hooked up everything but the connections to the radio, main fuse box, and body control module.
1. The instructions say I need to disconnect the battery - do I really ? It says refer to TIS 61 21 010 for how to do this. HUH??

Most common way is to disconnect the neg lead at the battery.... ANytime you play with the electrics in a car it is advised to pull the neg on the battery to break the circuit....this prevents shorts and your cooking something. Akin to opening the breaker on a circuit in the house b4 messing around.

2. Instructions say refer to TIS 65 11 030 to remove radio. What are these things? Or, how do I remove radio? :impatient

To pull the radio you need to remove the downtube covers....remove the torx on either side and you'll need to loosen the console too in my experience. {screw in each cup holder and pop off the mirror switch cover to find 2 more) Pull the console back a little which releases the tube covers and you'll then be able to get to the mount points for the radio. Pull the radio forward to get to the wires you need. Take a good look at how this is all together b4 you pull cuz it can be FUN getting it all back together.

3. Instructions say "displace passenger side entrance cover strip for access to body control module". This is not real helpful. I have no idea what they are talking about.

They are talking about the plastic piece on the right side of the pass' footwell...that whole panel. Behind this panel is the electronic box where you need to splice in the trigger wire, it's a 6" by 6" box. Pull off the rubber wx strip around the lower front of the door, pull some carpet out of the way and then go to work on the panel. It will pop off but it is a *****....then you need to get to the big multi-plug connector that goes into the bottom of the electronic black box you'll find there. This is where you REALLY REALLY want to have disconnected the battery cuz if you manage to cause a short and toast this box.....welll, get out your checkbook.....

You guys are always so good with answers......... (BTW, 3/2006 build R52)

I've installed a half a dozen sets....if you have problems PM me. BTW most of this wiring mess is just to get the switch illumination :impatient ..... wiring a PIAA or HELLA set is a lot easier. I only completely figured out the factory set by having a car with a factory install next to the project car so we could look see..... Once I saw it all it makes sense...not good sense but I can follow the instructions anyway!

 

Chpsk8: yep, dats duh one - I didn't think I needed help disconnecting the battery , but the instructions made me wonder...

Capt. BJ: thanks man , I think I got what I need

 

btw - I don't completely remove that panel in the footwell, just pop enuf buttons so I can pull it back from the bottom and side twd the door to get to the connector on the bottom of the black box

and you may wonder why you have two small splice clips and a big one for like 5 wires.....you need the big one on this connector wire cuz the wire you will tap is fatter....you don't need extra wires....but you need the fatter center tap..... follow me? I usually forget the whole thing and solder the wire in after stripping a little insulation, then use paint on insulation to reseal...

 

I might wonder that if I'd gotten a new kit, but I bought mine used on NAM, so I have no connectors other than a set of assorted that I bought. I'm not sure about the soldering ( I usually melt a few things too many ), but I'm glad to hear about paint-on insulation. Where do you find that stuff?

 

Home depot by me has it in the electric section

 

Thanks. Couldn't get into it this weekend . Yesterday we delivered my father-in-law his birthday recliners. He FINALLY has a house again two years after Katrina turned his into a bare slab (28 feet of water in his yard ).

 

Almost done hooking up my oem driving lights! I'm trying to make the connection to the body control module, but I'm having trouble getting the green plug out of the bottom of the BCM. Is there a trick, or just push (pull??) like H__L? I really don't want to break anything now that I am this close.

 

Ok, I can see how the visible part of the green plug slides forward and backward, appears to be how the plug is pushed in tight as there are a couple of slots at an angle (with lugs poking through) to the top edge of the plug. I can slide this visible part of the green plug about 3/16" forward and backward, but otherwise, I'm having no luck getting anything to move.

 

there's a sort of sliding catch on the cover.... I had to eyeball it to figure it out. I think I pulled towards me. The cover kind of slides to release some pins then you can pull the whole connector down. When done right, it comes off easy.

You don't HAVE TO disconnect the plug, if you can I D the right wire and get a tap on it ... BUT B SURE U disconnected the battery so you don't fry anything.

 

The sliding part has sort of an angle on the pins. When you push the slide in to afix, it pushes the connector in tight. On removal, you need to pull the slide a bit to get the plug to pop loose......work it from both ends.....don't force it...but work it. It's in there tight

 

Yeah, that plug is a PIA! IIRC, as you pull the catch backwards, the whole plug slides down and out - there is a notch in the housing and an angled slot in the connector. Not much room to work with there. I found it much easier to access the wire with the plug disconnected.

 

Thanks, guys. You're right - PIA doesn't begin to describe it, but now I'm done and THEY WORK . It's all back together and life is good.

 

not the cleanest set up I've seen (fm MINI) but I think you''ll agree that after doing it once...the second and third won't be that difficult!

Offer the service to your local MINI'ites and become a god.