Electrical Breaching the Firewall
Breaching the Firewall
Hi Guys,
New member here. I did a search, but after reading through countless posts, I couldn't find a direct answer for my question: How do you breach the firewall?
I'm a firefighter who will be installing emergency lights into the Mini Cooper, so I need help getting wires through the firewall. Tomorrow I will open up the cover that runs the width of the car, under the wipers (I think I can figure out how), and I bet I'll find a few grommets in there that I can send wires through, into the cabin. How does this sound so far?
And the next question is, how do I get the dash apart to get to those same wires I just passed through the firewall?
The ultimate plan is to run the wires under the doorsill (my next question), under which ever seat is on the same side as the firewall breach, and up into the armrest. We don't have bluetooth, so I'll be installing the switches into the spot for the blue tooth.
Any help with any of this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
New member here. I did a search, but after reading through countless posts, I couldn't find a direct answer for my question: How do you breach the firewall?
I'm a firefighter who will be installing emergency lights into the Mini Cooper, so I need help getting wires through the firewall. Tomorrow I will open up the cover that runs the width of the car, under the wipers (I think I can figure out how), and I bet I'll find a few grommets in there that I can send wires through, into the cabin. How does this sound so far?
And the next question is, how do I get the dash apart to get to those same wires I just passed through the firewall?
The ultimate plan is to run the wires under the doorsill (my next question), under which ever seat is on the same side as the firewall breach, and up into the armrest. We don't have bluetooth, so I'll be installing the switches into the spot for the blue tooth.
Any help with any of this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
There's a grommet on the driver's side, near the top of the firewall, almost all the way on the outside. Has a couple of wires through it already. Can easily be cut for more wires - that's how most folks here run their driving lights, etc.
If you push some wire through there from the engine bay, it will emerge not far up under there - it's accessible without taking the dash apart. Worst case, you can remove the knee bolster just by jerking hard on it. Then you can see the grommet easily.
If you push some wire through there from the engine bay, it will emerge not far up under there - it's accessible without taking the dash apart. Worst case, you can remove the knee bolster just by jerking hard on it. Then you can see the grommet easily.
On the 2007 R56 there are two penetrations on the firewall, one on the passenger side and one on the drivers side. If you use the drivers side you will need a puller to remove the windshield wiper arms first. then remove the windscreen covers this will reveal the the penetration which has a protective plastic cap. When this is popped off you will see the rubber penetration boot with a spare entry on it. Just clip off the tip and you will be able to fish a wire into the car. You will need to remove the skirtcover that is on the lower dash over the pedals by removing three screws and popping the cover straight out from its clips.
On the 2007 R56 there are two penetrations on the firewall, one on the passenger side and one on the drivers side. If you use the drivers side you will need a puller to remove the windshield wiper arms first. then remove the windscreen covers this will reveal the the penetration which has a protective plastic cap. When this is popped off you will see the rubber penetration boot with a spare entry on it. Just clip off the tip and you will be able to fish a wire into the car. You will need to remove the skirtcover that is on the lower dash over the pedals by removing three screws and popping the cover straight out from its clips.
It's a LOT easier on an R53...
Lots of great info above.
I installed driving lights about a week ago. To access the pass through on the drivers side you do need to remove the windshield wipers (although I just took the nut of and wiggled them off - no puller required) and the plastic cover below the wipers. Next to the brake booster is a black plastic cover which removes to show a large rubber piece with various spots to cut to allow wires to pass. Once the plastic cover is back on it is quite weather proofed. I was able to reach under the dash to pass the wires but did cut and scratch my hand. If you have really large hands it will be quite difficult. The plastic trim on the door sill can be pulled away as it is held in by clips.
Hope this helps.
I installed driving lights about a week ago. To access the pass through on the drivers side you do need to remove the windshield wipers (although I just took the nut of and wiggled them off - no puller required) and the plastic cover below the wipers. Next to the brake booster is a black plastic cover which removes to show a large rubber piece with various spots to cut to allow wires to pass. Once the plastic cover is back on it is quite weather proofed. I was able to reach under the dash to pass the wires but did cut and scratch my hand. If you have really large hands it will be quite difficult. The plastic trim on the door sill can be pulled away as it is held in by clips.
Hope this helps.
Additionally---- To remove the wiper arm there is a plastic cover over the spindle which will reveal a nut which secures the arm to the tapered splined spindle. Then you have to use a puller. I bought one from the local parts store but it was too long so i had to modify it with a shorter metric screw (the hood gets in the way) Dont try to pry it off using levers as You will cause damage to the spindle. Mine were on very tight, no way were they coming off without the puller.
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Thanks for all the advice. I have the lights mounted nicely behind the grille, but for the life of me I can't get the wiper arms off. I bought a puller from NAPA auto parts which acts like a spreader, trying to lift the arm off the spindle, but it doesn't work. Even when soaked in WD40. I think I might stop by the dealer next week and try to get them to remove them for me. I'm sure I can get them back on, but man, it is frustrating to try to get them off.
Sorry it took me a while to follow up with this thread:
Long story short, after buying a special tool designed to remove windshield wiper arms and WD-40ing the hell out of the spindle, I still could not remove the arms. I brought it to the dealer and talked to one of the service managers, who proceeded to pull on the arms, try my tool, etc. all with no luck. He walked over and discussed it with one of the mechanics. The mechanic walked over, grabbed the arm and within 2 seconds just pulled it off. He did this with the other arm as well. He then said, "that will be $95" as he walked away (jokingly).
So I drove home, did my wiring, re-installed the wiper arms and just for the heck of it, tried to remove them again, in the same way the mechanic did. Absolutely no luck- they didn't even move a mm. At least I ran all the wires at once, and hopefully I'll never have to go back in there again
Long story short, after buying a special tool designed to remove windshield wiper arms and WD-40ing the hell out of the spindle, I still could not remove the arms. I brought it to the dealer and talked to one of the service managers, who proceeded to pull on the arms, try my tool, etc. all with no luck. He walked over and discussed it with one of the mechanics. The mechanic walked over, grabbed the arm and within 2 seconds just pulled it off. He did this with the other arm as well. He then said, "that will be $95" as he walked away (jokingly).
So I drove home, did my wiring, re-installed the wiper arms and just for the heck of it, tried to remove them again, in the same way the mechanic did. Absolutely no luck- they didn't even move a mm. At least I ran all the wires at once, and hopefully I'll never have to go back in there again
On the 2007 R56 there are two penetrations on the firewall, one on the passenger side and one on the drivers side. If you use the drivers side you will need a puller to remove the windshield wiper arms first. then remove the windscreen covers this will reveal the the penetration which has a protective plastic cap. When this is popped off you will see the rubber penetration boot with a spare entry on it. Just clip off the tip and you will be able to fish a wire into the car. You will need to remove the skirtcover that is on the lower dash over the pedals by removing three screws and popping the cover straight out from its clips.
You mention there is an access point on the passenger side, I was just wondering where and how do you access it??
You have to remove the two covers to access it. I believe it is behind the battery.
old trick I use to remove the wiper arms. While gently pulling on one, lightly tap the arm with a dead blow hammer or wrap the hammer with a cloth and do the same thing. Has always worked for me!
Also when you replace them, put a little white grease on the splines, they will come off easier the next time.
Never penetrated a car before. I see the firewall cover behind the battery. I'm hoping to wriggle my hands in there without removing the wiper and cover. Possible? Also, where does it lead inside the car? What do I have to remove?
It depends on what you want to access. Is it radio power, lighting etc. there are advantages to using the right or left penetrations.
I'm thinking of installing a "parking sensor" in the grill and need to pass the wiring for the on/off switch.
I assume that you are going to mount the switch on the gearshift console, then the battery side penetration would be the best and easist..
getting through the firewall on the passenger side is very easy (I would say as easy as on the R50/53) - no need to remove the wipers - just remove that small plastic cover above the battery (3 bolts), remove the protective cap of the firewall (just pop it off with a screwdriver) and you are there !
you can also easily see the firewall from beneath the dash on the passenger side (don't remember being able to do that on the R50).
you can also easily see the firewall from beneath the dash on the passenger side (don't remember being able to do that on the R50).
getting through the firewall on the passenger side is very easy (I would say as easy as on the R50/53) - no need to remove the wipers - just remove that small plastic cover above the battery (3 bolts), remove the protective cap of the firewall (just pop it off with a screwdriver) and you are there !
you can also easily see the firewall from beneath the dash on the passenger side (don't remember being able to do that on the R50).
you can also easily see the firewall from beneath the dash on the passenger side (don't remember being able to do that on the R50).

Last edited by lacning74; Dec 29, 2007 at 12:30 PM.
Now what holds the gear shift console down? Like how to remove?
There are torx screws in the bottom of the front and rear cupholders. After you remove them, the center console snaps out but is held by the shifter and e-brake boot and trim which can be removed. Other's have posted how to do this.
When I installed my switches and buttons, I didn't remove the console completely, just moved it enough to place the wiring. Also, I removed the shifter trim ring by just pulling up on it to snap it off. Then you can work from above.

When I installed my switches and buttons, I didn't remove the console completely, just moved it enough to place the wiring. Also, I removed the shifter trim ring by just pulling up on it to snap it off. Then you can work from above.



