Drivetrain Alta V2 pulley problems?
Alta V2 pulley problems?
has anybody else had this problem with V2 pulley 15%
pulley does not line true with the other pulleys causing belt to jump a groove back towards S/C when run
i was lucky the chap we sold pulley to only run car 15/20 mins then heard a flapping sound as belt cut up he stopped engine before belt let go
the problem with this pulley you can't alter position on S/C
pulley does not line true with the other pulleys causing belt to jump a groove back towards S/C when run
i was lucky the chap we sold pulley to only run car 15/20 mins then heard a flapping sound as belt cut up he stopped engine before belt let go
the problem with this pulley you can't alter position on S/C
has anybody else had this problem with V2 pulley 15%
pulley does not line true with the other pulleys causing belt to jump a groove back towards S/C when run
i was lucky the chap we sold pulley to only run car 15/20 mins then heard a flapping sound as belt cut up he stopped engine before belt let go
the problem with this pulley you can't alter position on S/C
pulley does not line true with the other pulleys causing belt to jump a groove back towards S/C when run
i was lucky the chap we sold pulley to only run car 15/20 mins then heard a flapping sound as belt cut up he stopped engine before belt let go
the problem with this pulley you can't alter position on S/C
Steve
hi steve thanx
yes very odd i don't have a v2 puuley in stock to compare this one too,
but S/C shaft is right against stop on mounting collar and pulley fits very well into the mounting collar,as for S/C shaft pulling out from charger only 1.5mm gap from mounting collar to s/charger housing very odd this one,
steve have you known charger shafts to pull out?
yes very odd i don't have a v2 puuley in stock to compare this one too,
but S/C shaft is right against stop on mounting collar and pulley fits very well into the mounting collar,as for S/C shaft pulling out from charger only 1.5mm gap from mounting collar to s/charger housing very odd this one,
steve have you known charger shafts to pull out?
hi steve thanx
yes very odd i don't have a v2 puuley in stock to compare this one too,
but S/C shaft is right against stop on mounting collar and pulley fits very well into the mounting collar,as for S/C shaft pulling out from charger only 1.5mm gap from mounting collar to s/charger housing very odd this one,
steve have you known charger shafts to pull out?
yes very odd i don't have a v2 puuley in stock to compare this one too,
but S/C shaft is right against stop on mounting collar and pulley fits very well into the mounting collar,as for S/C shaft pulling out from charger only 1.5mm gap from mounting collar to s/charger housing very odd this one,
steve have you known charger shafts to pull out?
Steve
I believe I have the same problem but with the Version 1 pulley. I pushed the mounting collar on as far as I can after baking it in the over. After putting the pulley on the mounting collar and putting everything back together the pulley was off line with the rest of the pulleys. The belt tensioner was shaking crazy and belt dust was around the new pulley. I guess I will take the alta off and force the mounting collar closer to the supercharger and put it back together. Best of luck with yours and it sounds exactly the same as mine.
Your shouldn't have to heat the hub at all. It should slide easily over the supercharger shaft all the way back to where the shaft enters the supercharger housing. I've installed five supercharger pulleys so far (two Alta 1.0, a Helix, a Webb, and an M7), and they've all slid right onto the shaft with no heating or "persuasion" required.
If you've having to heat it to get it on, perhaps there's some damage to the shaft that's preventing the hub from seating all the way, even after heating.
If you've having to heat it to get it on, perhaps there's some damage to the shaft that's preventing the hub from seating all the way, even after heating.
Your shouldn't have to heat the hub at all. It should slide easily over the supercharger shaft all the way back to where the shaft enters the supercharger housing. I've installed five supercharger pulleys so far (two Alta 1.0, a Helix, a Webb, and an M7), and they've all slid right onto the shaft with no heating or "persuasion" required.
If you've having to heat it to get it on, perhaps there's some damage to the shaft that's preventing the hub from seating all the way, even after heating.
If you've having to heat it to get it on, perhaps there's some damage to the shaft that's preventing the hub from seating all the way, even after heating.
Steve
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Hi Steve
just had a look at the car in the workshop as customer has left us with car untill weekend,
looks you maybe right shaft has pulled out from charger gap of 2/2.5mm plus i'm sure on other v2 pulleys you only see set bolt near the s/c not most of the metle tothe other bolt
looks like strip down job for tomorrow
just had a look at the car in the workshop as customer has left us with car untill weekend,
looks you maybe right shaft has pulled out from charger gap of 2/2.5mm plus i'm sure on other v2 pulleys you only see set bolt near the s/c not most of the metle tothe other bolt
looks like strip down job for tomorrow
Hi Steve
just had a look at the car in the workshop as customer has left us with car untill weekend,
looks you maybe right shaft has pulled out from charger gap of 2/2.5mm plus i'm sure on other v2 pulleys you only see set bolt near the s/c not most of the metle tothe other bolt
looks like strip down job for tomorrow
just had a look at the car in the workshop as customer has left us with car untill weekend,
looks you maybe right shaft has pulled out from charger gap of 2/2.5mm plus i'm sure on other v2 pulleys you only see set bolt near the s/c not most of the metle tothe other bolt
looks like strip down job for tomorrow
Steve
Here's a picture of the hub installed on the shaft, for reference:

The funny thing is, whoever did the install evidently didn't know to put a sacrificial bolt in the end of the supercharger shaft before removing the factory pulley - look how badly munged up the end of the supercharger shaft is!

The funny thing is, whoever did the install evidently didn't know to put a sacrificial bolt in the end of the supercharger shaft before removing the factory pulley - look how badly munged up the end of the supercharger shaft is!
The easiest thing to do is use the bolt from the nut/bolt combo that holds the passenger-side ground strap in place. It's the correct diameter, pitch and length, and you have to remove it anyway to do the pulley install, so it's convenient.
It will thread all the way into the end of the supercharger shaft and provide a surface for the extractor bolt to press/turn against so you don't damage the end of the supercharger shaft. After the factory pulley is out, simply remove the bolt from the shaft.
You'll end up with a small divot in the face of the bolt head, but it's not visible after you've put everything back together.
It will thread all the way into the end of the supercharger shaft and provide a surface for the extractor bolt to press/turn against so you don't damage the end of the supercharger shaft. After the factory pulley is out, simply remove the bolt from the shaft.
You'll end up with a small divot in the face of the bolt head, but it's not visible after you've put everything back together.
Well, if you're trying to install a supercharger pulley on anything *but* an 'S', you're going to have more problems than finding a suitable bolt! 
I obviously don't understand your question, but I'm almost certain the same bolt will work for all years of the supercharged 'S' (2002-2006 hardtop, or 2005-2007 cabrio). I know it will work for your 2005 hardtop, as I've put pulleys in a couple of them.
I obviously don't understand your question, but I'm almost certain the same bolt will work for all years of the supercharged 'S' (2002-2006 hardtop, or 2005-2007 cabrio). I know it will work for your 2005 hardtop, as I've put pulleys in a couple of them.
DOH!! My bad on the last question. It's been one of those days.
I've attached the instructions I was given. No mention of the passenger-side ground strap. Can you direct me to it?
Any further tips/recommendations?
Thanks
I've attached the instructions I was given. No mention of the passenger-side ground strap. Can you direct me to it?
Any further tips/recommendations?
Thanks
I like Randy Webb's directions a lot better, just because they're more detailed and have more pictures:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=5103
The ground bolt I'm talking about is the one you remove in step #9 of Randy's directions.
Note that you will be skipping steps 11 & 12, since you have a 2005 model. There's a note in the directions to that effect, but Randy put it *after* the steps that you'll be skipping.
I would go ahead and remove the coil pack connector right from the start, just to give you a little more room when your'e jacking the engine up. To remove the connector, just slide the little red tab on the top of the connector toward the passenger side of the car, then squeeze/pull the connector toward the rear of the car to disconnect it from the coil pack.
Also, the large aluminum bracket that attaches to the passenger motor mount can be removed to give you a LOT better access to the tensioner bolts. The bracket is held on with four identical 16mm bolts, so it's easy to remove/reinstall. Removing the tensioner assembly is probably the most time-consuming part of the process. It's only held on with two 10mm and two 16mm bolts, but they're not very convenient to get to, even after removing the large aluminum motor mount bracket.
I just use a single floor jack for the whole procedure, even though I have three available. It goes fine with one jack, and I've never had a problem getting things to line up during reassembly.
One last thing - when you go to re-insert the lower engine mount bolt, it's going to look like it's not even close to lining up. What I didn't realize at first was that even after you've tightened the two upper motor mounts, the motor is still free to swing fore-and-aft, so just reach up and swing the engine until the lower motor mount holes line up.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=5103
The ground bolt I'm talking about is the one you remove in step #9 of Randy's directions.
Note that you will be skipping steps 11 & 12, since you have a 2005 model. There's a note in the directions to that effect, but Randy put it *after* the steps that you'll be skipping.
I would go ahead and remove the coil pack connector right from the start, just to give you a little more room when your'e jacking the engine up. To remove the connector, just slide the little red tab on the top of the connector toward the passenger side of the car, then squeeze/pull the connector toward the rear of the car to disconnect it from the coil pack.
Also, the large aluminum bracket that attaches to the passenger motor mount can be removed to give you a LOT better access to the tensioner bolts. The bracket is held on with four identical 16mm bolts, so it's easy to remove/reinstall. Removing the tensioner assembly is probably the most time-consuming part of the process. It's only held on with two 10mm and two 16mm bolts, but they're not very convenient to get to, even after removing the large aluminum motor mount bracket.
I just use a single floor jack for the whole procedure, even though I have three available. It goes fine with one jack, and I've never had a problem getting things to line up during reassembly.
One last thing - when you go to re-insert the lower engine mount bolt, it's going to look like it's not even close to lining up. What I didn't realize at first was that even after you've tightened the two upper motor mounts, the motor is still free to swing fore-and-aft, so just reach up and swing the engine until the lower motor mount holes line up.
yes problem was at some time S/C shaft has been pulled out 7mm
so thats why customer had belt jump problem it shows how some other companies try to change pulleys for people i will post the pics later but i have never seen so many marks on a supercharger from either crow bars or misused pullers and vice like marks,
but charger still works and belts now aline
thanx for your help
so thats why customer had belt jump problem it shows how some other companies try to change pulleys for people i will post the pics later but i have never seen so many marks on a supercharger from either crow bars or misused pullers and vice like marks,
but charger still works and belts now aline
thanx for your help
Sounds like the other shop tried to remove the factory pulley by inserting a prybar between the supercharger case and the backside of the pulley - yikes!
So, what is it that actually happpens inside the supercharger assembly when the shaft "pulls out"? Is there some spacer or bearing surface that's damaged? I don't know what the factory spec for supercharger shaft end-play is, but I imagine it's a LOT less than 7mm!
Glad you got everything back together and it all lines up now.
So, what is it that actually happpens inside the supercharger assembly when the shaft "pulls out"? Is there some spacer or bearing surface that's damaged? I don't know what the factory spec for supercharger shaft end-play is, but I imagine it's a LOT less than 7mm!
Glad you got everything back together and it all lines up now.
My friend and I did a pulley, CAI, engine dampener install last night.
We used the Craven 15% pulley.
When we removed the stock pulley, we found a paper thin piece
of metal with tabs around the outside. It must have been there
originally, as we didn't install it. We just pushed it back on with
the new pulley. When we started the car when everything was done,
there was a friction sound from the pulley area. We were thinking it
may be this piece rubbing somehow. Do you know what that part is for?
Do we need to disassemble to address this? If so, can the pulley
bolts be reused?
We used the Craven 15% pulley.
When we removed the stock pulley, we found a paper thin piece
of metal with tabs around the outside. It must have been there
originally, as we didn't install it. We just pushed it back on with
the new pulley. When we started the car when everything was done,
there was a friction sound from the pulley area. We were thinking it
may be this piece rubbing somehow. Do you know what that part is for?
Do we need to disassemble to address this? If so, can the pulley
bolts be reused?
This has nothing to do with Craven Speed. It is a great product. I'm just showing what the mysterious part did to the pulley hub.

Does anyone know what the thin metal part is for? It was behind the stock pulley. It came loose and started to do a number on the pulley hub. We have removed it.

Does anyone know what the thin metal part is for? It was behind the stock pulley. It came loose and started to do a number on the pulley hub. We have removed it.
???
I closely watched Randy do 5 or 6 pulleys at a pulley party and have done two myself (03/05) but I have never seen that part.
It looks to me like a shaft bearing retainer. What/how did you remove the OEM pulley.

It looks to me like a shaft bearing retainer. What/how did you remove the OEM pulley.
Last edited by norm03s; May 11, 2007 at 07:47 AM. Reason: text




