OK, I'm just at the part where you have to remove the Camshaft Sprocket. How have you guy's made a part to take off the Sprocket Bolt. Or, have you used a wrench of some type. I see what you have to hold to get the bolt off, but, I can't seem to get anything in to hold it while I loosen the bolt. I just called BMW and the part is $195.00 . Any help will be appreciated.... So far it's been fairly straight forward with only a few surprises...Also, if someone does by chance have the tool needed and I can't seem to get it off I would be more than happy to rent it from you...

Thanks,
Mark

 

This might help?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=97304

 

with the wheels down (or you can have someone use the brake if the wheels are off and the car is up). Then get a BFW (big f***ing wrench) to breake the bolt loose.

Just wait till you get to the chain tensioner!

I'm sure you could make a tool to hold the sprocket from turning. But watch the valve cover seal face, you don't want to ding it and have a perpetual oil leak....

Matt

 

Well I got both the cam bolt loosend and the tensioner plug bolt out.( You weren't lying about the tensioner bolt.....what a Bit**) Tommorow off comes the head and then the fun of replacement... The bentley manual shows a large bar releasing the tension plug. How did you get this to go or did you make a piece to act as a pry bar.

Again thanks for the help.

 

and wrapped painters tape around the end to keep it from being metal on metal. They want you to push on the slider thinggy without touching the chain, but that seemed like a PITA so I did what I did.

But you're pretty much there. Figuring out how to get all the stuff off is actually harder than putting it together. Get some Acetone and a putty knife to scrape the old gasket off. USe some spray on copper gasket to seal the head gasket, and torque new head bolts as described. (They are stretch to torque bolts....).

Now, what I did worked, but I don't know if it's optimal....

Matt

 

There’s no need to extend the tensioner plunger manually, it will ratchet itself out with oil pressure during the first start-up.

A putty knife is too harsh for the block and no need for copper spray.

 

the plastic was useless, and the putty knife was new, so didn't cause problems.

As far as the Cu stuff, it would have saved me about $6 if I'd talked to you.... But some others that are building some nasty engines that swear by it.

Matt

 

I made the tool:

 

what did you use to push the tension nar back into place? The manual show a large pry bar?

 

I am going to do as Dr. Obnx suggested with the end of my tensioner tool.

If that doesnt work I have a 3 foot long straight edge...

 

is saying that you don't even need to extend it, as the oil will do that all on it's own.....

Hay Keith, the thing acts like the top of an old ball point pen. Will just letting the oil do it release the spring as well? Or just push based on oil pressure. I never took that sucker apart to see what's inside.

Matt

 

All done! whew

 

it's shocking how fast it all goes together.....

Matt

 

Yeah, it really was a breeze. Sad to say but I feel like I picked up some low end torque and don't really miss a thing from the Shrick...and my idle issues are now gone

 

It's me again...So far so good until I went to put the Intake manifold back on. Did you guy's use new studs? I can't get all of the existing out of the old head. Also, the ones I did will go in only one or two turns until they get resistance. I don't want to put that kind of pressure on a new aluminum head until you guy's tell me it's OK.
Again thank for all of the help.
Mark

 

by double nutting the studs on the old head, and just moving them over to the new....

Now, I understand the aprehension with screwing up threads on the new head. If you want to be safest, get a bottom tap and chase the threads.

If you've got big *****, just torque them down and hope for the best!

Matt

 

Yes double nut them as Matt stated and if that doesn't work put a lockwasher in between and tighten up.........the studs will come out then! I would make sure the studs are in fully hand tight in new head though.....not just a couple of turns. Good luck!

Jeremy

 

a lock washer between the double nuts??? why didnt i think of that (one of my other engines i have built, and have 4 more off lying around my shop, have 48 head studs a piece!!! needless to say most of the studs are still in most of them, but i wish i knew that before, the ones i did take out were done with a monkey wrench, and now i find out those studs have a really special thread, std studs work, but not quite the same, where were you 6 years ago when i started building those engines? At least i will know for the next one.....)

Thanks!

Beecher

 

I encountered the same issue, each stock head I’ve seen had some uneven stud mounting; I used new studs BTW. In the absence of a thread restoration tap, screw the stud in a little, back a little, and in a little until you meet resistance, back it out and clean the threads with a copper wire brush, clear the hole with some compressed air and continue. If using the old studs be sure to clean the threads before starting; be patient and use finesse rather than force.

 

Now we alll know how big YOUR ***** are!

But as usual, your right on.

Matt

 

No problem with the wee tip Beecher. I've had a few frozen studs in heads, flywheel housings and tranny cases that have really ercked me.

k-huevo's tips are spot on too!

Jeremy

 

OK finally finished... and as soon as I started it up my service engine soon light came on.. I went down to Auto Zone and borrowed their code reader. It came up with a code P0304-#4 cylinder misfire. So far I have changed all plugs and #4 twice. I did put on a new coild pack and new sparkplug wires these also check out fine with a Ohm's meter and still the same code. This morning after running great all weekend it started to run on 3 cylinders after it warmed up OK. I took it home and parked it and when I came home it started and runs smooth as ever now. Also the ABS/DSC/TIRE SENSOR LIGHTS also come on full time. I do know this is the MAP sensors. So any Idea what could be the problem.