Drivetrain pistons?
well the tear down begins this summer . if need be (hope not ) i'll get it bored to .020 over . could add some torque !! but well above budget . that would mean porting and ccing the head myself with iffy results as i have no flow bench . so balancing the ports wouldn't be an issue but flowing them would . it'll be nice to get it healthy again .
oh right on... well I will say that it takes agood amount of damage to need to go to .020 over... ussually just honing them out is enough... again... this is all good stuff for you to go over with the guys if you are unsure... :D
cool . whos pistons are you selling ? are they made for you ? if so ; good on you ,that's a heavy order . are they better at the top land then the stockers? and i assume they're well balanced . no .010 overs?
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I'm the one that has 20 over stock. I just got them from Fireballed the other day and were sent to the machine shop. The only reason I had to do this because the OEM piston had a hole through it and messed up the block. My motor will all so be balanced before going back into my Mini along with APR studs.
Mario
Mario
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
I am installing the Fireballed stock sized pistons in a couple of weeks. Should be able to give you all some feedback as to ease of install etc. I am not planning on pulling the crank. Just taking the head off, dropping the oil pan and exchanging the rod bolts for ARP's. Should be fun. I think JE makes the pistons, but Brian could confirm or deny this.
ENDYN also offers custom pistons in stock and overbore sizes.
http://www.theoldone.com/components/pistons/index.html
http://www.theoldone.com/components/pistons/index.html
Our pistons are our own design, the ring lands are beefed up and there are some other design changes that went into them. We have made well over 400whp on these pistons on boost alone and even more with a little n2o, they have also seen 40 psi of boost so they are definitely strong!!!
We haven't done any .010 but we could if there is a need.
Right now we have a couple sets of stock bore and a couple sets of .020, no waiting, they are in stock.
We haven't done any .010 but we could if there is a need.
Right now we have a couple sets of stock bore and a couple sets of .020, no waiting, they are in stock.
Changing pistons is a fine idea for an engine that is controlled by a standalone ecu. But if you are using the stock ecu you are best to use the stock Mahle pistons. The reason is that the knock sensor is tuned for the frequency given off by the Mahle pistons. Due to different materials and designs aftermarket pistons, e.g., Wiseco, JE, CP, will give off a different frequency thus potentially hampering the entire system.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
Since the topic came up, does any of the aftermarket systems like mth or or the custom tunes still use the knock sensor and variable timing, or do the aftermarket systems eliminate that? Thanks
Beecher
Beecher
Changing pistons is a fine idea for an engine that is controlled by a standalone ecu. But if you are using the stock ecu you are best to use the stock Mahle pistons. The reason is that the knock sensor is tuned for the frequency given off by the Mahle pistons. Due to different materials and designs aftermarket pistons, e.g., Wiseco, JE, CP, will give off a different frequency thus potentially hampering the entire system.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
i would assume they wouldn't eliminate a good insurance policy already in place . it wouldn't be good for business to be paying for engines . just my .02 . p.s. i think they can play with the timing a bit but i think the knock sensor is still functional . cool ?
I have been running aftermarket pistons for almost two years...
while I agree with Don in some cases (like some of the EVOs I have see/done...VERY noisy...sound like TDIs..LOL) Hubie and the Brain....did alot of testing to ensure there was no ill effects... especially for the .020 pistons and have no problems with the car running as quite as stock and not pulling any timing due to it thinking there is knock from loose rattling pistons..
while I agree with Don in some cases (like some of the EVOs I have see/done...VERY noisy...sound like TDIs..LOL) Hubie and the Brain....did alot of testing to ensure there was no ill effects... especially for the .020 pistons and have no problems with the car running as quite as stock and not pulling any timing due to it thinking there is knock from loose rattling pistons..
Changing pistons is a fine idea for an engine that is controlled by a standalone ecu. But if you are using the stock ecu you are best to use the stock Mahle pistons. The reason is that the knock sensor is tuned for the frequency given off by the Mahle pistons. Due to different materials and designs aftermarket pistons, e.g., Wiseco, JE, CP, will give off a different frequency thus potentially hampering the entire system.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
I have been running aftermarket pistons for almost two years...
while I agree with Don in some cases (like some of the EVOs I have see/done...VERY noisy...sound like TDIs..LOL) Hubie and the Brain....did alot of testing to ensure there was no ill effects... especially for the .020 pistons and have no problems with the car running as quite as stock and not pulling any timing due to it thinking there is knock from loose rattling pistons..
while I agree with Don in some cases (like some of the EVOs I have see/done...VERY noisy...sound like TDIs..LOL) Hubie and the Brain....did alot of testing to ensure there was no ill effects... especially for the .020 pistons and have no problems with the car running as quite as stock and not pulling any timing due to it thinking there is knock from loose rattling pistons..
you are correct
Our pistons are our own design, the ring lands are beefed up and there are some other design changes that went into them. We have made well over 400whp on these pistons on boost alone and even more with a little n2o, they have also seen 40 psi of boost so they are definitely strong!!!
We haven't done any .010 but we could if there is a need.
Right now we have a couple sets of stock bore and a couple sets of .020, no waiting, they are in stock.
We haven't done any .010 but we could if there is a need.
Right now we have a couple sets of stock bore and a couple sets of .020, no waiting, they are in stock.
aren't they just the CP pistons?
Changing pistons is a fine idea for an engine that is controlled by a standalone ecu. But if you are using the stock ecu you are best to use the stock Mahle pistons. The reason is that the knock sensor is tuned for the frequency given off by the Mahle pistons. Due to different materials and designs aftermarket pistons, e.g., Wiseco, JE, CP, will give off a different frequency thus potentially hampering the entire system.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
This notion was first introduced to me by John at Lucky Dog Garage. I confirmed this with a call to my contact (of 20 years) at Mahle.
You say "thus potentially" have you or John tested any back to back under load and read what the timing is doing, if so how many degrees difference was there
i always assumed knock sensors were getting pinging from the block . we would hit the block with a hammer to see if the timing would retard to see then if the sensor would be working . but the idea of a specific frequency keying on the pistons i.e. the weak link is cool .
LOL again... it's a NONE issue.... I know the NAM is overly technical all the time... but ok ok ... so you read some blah blah blah in some book... that's great... anyway, call the guys at fireballed.... thier stuff is tried, true, tested, and just down right (as they say over the pond) proper....
again.. been running them for two years maybe more.... I forget....
again.. been running them for two years maybe more.... I forget....
LOL again... it's a NONE issue.... I know the NAM is overly technical all the time... but ok ok ... so you read some blah blah blah in some book... that's great... anyway, call the guys at fireballed.... thier stuff is tried, true, tested, and just down right (as they say over the pond) proper....
again.. been running them for two years maybe more.... I forget....
again.. been running them for two years maybe more.... I forget....
for me...testing this stuff was.. or anything for that matter.... is not putting it on and starting the car... " OH IT WORKS!"
I took a week alone of dyno testing just watching timing, checking pinging... etc... the car took alot of abuse but the only way to truley know if somethign is right is to test it... and the cars ran the same... normal timing for 91 is around 18 degrees.... sometimes 20 if you get a good batch.... then on 104 gt plus it will just stick at 30 and hold.... it's beautiful.... and with the pistons... it was exactly the same... car was happy as stock... except there was one time where a car had some bad gas... lol... I have seen it pull till 6 degrees... very impressive that the mini has that kinda resolution....
Last edited by Tüls; Mar 11, 2007 at 11:27 AM.



