First post here, but Ive been lurking for quite some time

I was wondering is someone else has this issue...

If I go full acceleration from 2nd, to 3rd and then to 4th, or just 3rd to 4th on the highway, the ESP light comes on and stays on. I have to turn the car off to get the ESP working again.

It doesnt matter if the esp is deactivated or not when I do the acceleration runs.
If its off when I accelerate, Its just not possible to turn it back on again.

 

I have had it do this a few times but not every time. and if i turn it off myself, i can turn it back on.

p.s. I dont have a giac reflash.

 

Something to do with overboost conditions... As soon as you go above 18psi, you can get this problem.

I've had this problem with my setup too... (19%-380cc injectors-GIAC)

Not a big deal if you ask me.

 

word

 

Its a real BIG DEAL!
If this happens, the ECU will run fat and the timing retards so far that the exhaust gas temperature will rise over 1000 °C.
The only way to solve this problem is to limit the voltage from the pressure sensor with a Fuel Cut Defender.
The ECU will not get higher voltage than preselected and thinks the boost is limited.

 

No big deal? Your ecu goes into something akin to protection mode -- it disables the DSC. If this is happening you'll need to make some corrective modifications such as a voltage clamp.

 

Sorry, but Im confused.

Why does the ESP go off instead of the engine warning lamp if its the ECU?

 

This happens within first gear for me if I wring it out to 7k.

 

No big deal because it only happens at redline in 4th gear usually. Unless its cold out then sometimes 3rd gear. So, while the ECU may start retarding things it rarely happens, so yea, personally I find it no big deal. Especially since when I do get it I turn the car off and turn it back on to get rid of it... JMO

 

I had the same thing happen to mine (19% giac 380cc) sometimes when it was cold weather and i would go wot. I haven't had the problem since I upgraded the exhaust though (from stock to invidia). Maybe better flow/less pressure or just coincidence?

 

I've emailed Helix about that issue, and he told me it was not hurting anything...

 

btw,

ESP = M-B, VW, Audi,...

DSC = MINI, BMW

 

My complete setup is:

19%, GIAC, 380CC, helix cold airintake, supersprintheaders with full exhaust and racecat,.

It doesnt happen once a while, but everytime I accelerate on the highway.
Full from 1st to 2nd never causes this.

When we read the errorcode it said something about the steering"beam"? (cant translate into english) :(

I find it very anoying.
Ive had a much more heavily tuned RS4 and I never had any issues with the ESP.

 

such as?

Is this something that could be "fixed" via the aftermarket software? In other words if GIAC were contacted - could they do something about it via file modification?

 

You are very right

 

What you are getting is a MAP sensor overboost code, which interacts with the BCM to disable the DSC system. It happens on some cars with the 19% and 380cc injectors. The DME (engine computer) is set to receive a certain voltage range from the boost pressure sensor (MAP sensor). In this circumstance the voltage that the MAP sensor is sending to the DME outside of the range that the DME accepts as 'normal' The DME sends a soft code to memory. It does not run fat (or any fatter than these cars run), or go into any kind of limp mode. When intake temperatures reach approximately 80 C., the car starts pulling timing more aggressively to control cylinder temperatures. The DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that illuminates the light on your dash does not itself directly effect the operation of your DME, it is a result of these out-of-range voltages that your car is experiencing.

I am not familiar with the performance of the Supersprint exhaust, but head work, and a good header and exhaust will address your DTC, by lowering boost (and increasing power ). You can also wait for warmer weather, when air density is lower, and you most likely won't get the DTC.

 

Thank you for this reply Helix! Certainly cleared a few things out

Is there any other way to solve this than to wait for warmer weather?

If I want DSC that is, (which I want to be able to swich on and off)

 

You need a so called Fuel Cut Defender wich limits the voltage transmitted to the ECU.

Here in germany, we run in the overboost condition under hard acceleration in 5. or 6. gear on the autobahn.
And Yes, the ECU dumps fuel and pulls the ignition in that way the exhaust gas temp goes over 1000°C - if you stay on the pedal the exhaust valves will melt in less than half a minute!
I know a couple of damaged engines, the overboost condition is quiet serious!

 

How complex is this Fuel Cut Defender install and how does it work with the other mods?

I see on the website that there isnt anything for the MINI, does someone else sell this or do you use one made for another car?

 

Pulling timing and dumping fuel serves to cool cylinder temperatures. I don't know what kind of tuning you are referring to, but it certainly is not GIAC. The symptoms you are describing (melting exhaust valves in less than half a minute) are the handywork of a wildly incompetent tuner, and not what we are talking about in this thread.

 

Hi Helix,
we have much harder driving conditions here in germany.
Anyone can legaly take his car and run at the limit on the autobahn without any speedlimit.
Did you run a Mini with 135 mph for at least 15 miles? I am!
The ecu pulls the timing so far that the combustion is´nt finished in the combustion chamber and gas still burns in the exhaust ports.
Believe me or not but we have done a lot of testruns with widebands and pyrometers.
The mentiones problem is only present in 5th and 6th gear under long and hard acceleration - your fun ends with 4. gear on the dragstrip, our fun starts with shifting from 4th in 5th......

 

by why should what gear you are in have anything to do with this? Or speed for that matter... the engine moves just as fast in first gear at 5k rpm as it does in fifth gear at 5k rpm, the amount of torque due to gear ratio's may vary but still. Granted the amount of air being tossed at the front grills/scoop may be higher but that's all i can figure.

 

Would this be resolved by going down to 17% or 15% pulley?
How much hp would I lose by doing so?

 

I don't think a 19% actually do add HP...

The 19% will lower the available power in the RPM. I've had a 15% for 3 years, and loved it. But with my driving style, I always use the low RPM range and rarely go above 6000.

Goign from the 15% to 19% was a huge improvement with my driving style. I get low-end torque and better use of the power. I shift at 4000RPM and get power from 2000RPM. The 19% pulley suits my driving style perfectly.

I really don't believe a 19% will get increase HP because of the heat generated. But, the 19% does put the power & torque on lower RPM, so it is really a great improvement over a 15%.

But I really don't suggest a 19% to a driver who does a lot of Auto-X or drives at high RPM.

 

the 19 with some coolin mods helps tons! I have driven a bunch of 15 % pulleyed cars and non of them feel as strong as mine. and most of them are running headers and reflashes.

p.s. if I could run at 135 for 15 miles, I would get a faster car and run at 185 for 10 miles and TRY to slow down for the last 5. timming issues solved!