The problem is that there is no "best". It's use case and other equipement dependant. There's enough data out there to show how the ICs stack up, and what pros and cons you get from them. Sure it's made more difficult because all the testers have different prefered data collection methods. But there's enough there. It's also harder to interpret because many testers only measure half the data, temps without pressures isn't the full picture, nor is pressures without temps. And on top of all of that, you have to keep an eye on timing retard. I don't make a call on what's "best" because I don't belive there is a one best IC!

Supreme guildlines for ICs:

• The higher the pressure drop, the worse they'll perform at high RPM.
• The better the thermal efficiency, the better they work at slow speed/stop and start driving.
• Very low thermal efficiencies may need other cooling, like a diverter sprayer or water injection.
• Every diverter set-up for the Mini is somewhat defficient and will benefit from some DIY customization.

Now, make a table of all the ICs, and go and dig through the data that's out there, and you'll find that there are several that do good enough job in each of the app spaces.

So sorry, Clint the Mini Owner, there will NEVER be an objective answer to your question, (other than what you find on vendor web-sites!) as THERE IS NO ABSOLUTE BEST!

And Clint, a thermal dispersant coating is far from insulating paint. It's a highly thermally conductive coating that increases micro-roughness on the surface, improving heat transfer at the outer metal air interface. Testing shows that it's good for 2-4 degrees C in IAT. Back of the envelope math says that's 2-4 HP. At about $100, that's $25-$50 per HP. Compare that to other mods that are out there and you'll find it's not bad. And that benenfit is on top of whatever IC you choose, and whatever diverter mods you've made.

There are about a half-dozen threads on the subject, if you want to learn more. Actually, for whatever IC you run, you should do the thermal dispersant coating. Lowest price I found was www.cradin.com (another NAMer found them). You may find a local service provider and not have to deal with the shipping.

Matt

 

It's also a good idea to follow the instructions when you install the IC. They needed to grind the 2 OE mounting bosses. Looks like they missed that part.

 

How are these not similar statements? I was talking about conclusive analysis, and you talk about objective answers. Seems like we agree.

 

The problem is that MarioKart did grind down the posts and still got a (relatively minor) dent in his bonnet. Not as bad as those shown, but enough to annoy the fastidious. I think it's the engine movement...

 

if you won't listen to scientifically involved discussion as to which (ic) may possibly be better then why are you even asking?

you clearly are more worried about your own (or others opinion) so purchase by your own vendor preference and looks alone.

 

and since best is use case dependant, it's impossible to answer. With a use case, then best can be determined.

Matt

 

On the link, that's some heavy dent on the backside of the scoop support. Where the engine movement tell starts is a couple of inches from where the IC bashed the scoop support ( the slide on the hood, pic, is pretty telling ). The damage suggests the IC was way too high in front. I wonder how, exactly, they do fit even as per instruction..........

 

This thread makes me happy..........................

 

Me too. There's a sister thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=108559

 

Since IAT threads seem to morph, and the latest is always the one being read, perhaps I can share a thought I had driving home last night. I was checking ambient, airbox, IC in and out, and IATs as I drove (out of the corner of my eye, of course!) and in the end, it's all about how the car performs/feels at a particular IAT. Ignoring ambient air qualities such as humidity, density due to altitude, etc. ultimately it's the pressure and temperature of the air (density, mass) going into the cylinders that contributes to power production.
Now don't get me wrong, *how* we get a particular IAT given a particular ambient temp and boost in the SC is what we're talking about, but what do we know about how our cars perform when the IAT is 80F compared to 150F, all other things (especially engine rpm) constant? Has Matt produced a little graph showing IAT on the horizontal axis and power on the vertical, ceteris paribus? I'd like to see that for my car.

Keep polishing...

 

A rule of thumb is that for every 10ºF you lose 1% hp.

I do know that I ran on a dyno with/without and fan on the IC and saw an 18hp loss. Unfortuntely I didn't at that time have a way to trap IAT. A/F dipped int 8:1 range at ~6500. Been over a year so I'm not exact on the figures.

 

I wonder how much timing got pulled. The EGT must have been pretty high to get 8:1. Hmmmm...

 

Of all the different mod configurations I've done to date, I've never seen anything below 11.5 AF...that includes Powerchip, Unichip, Cowchip, Nochip, stock IC, Alta IC, DFIC, 15%, 15+2%, stock header, Milltek header, RMW header, stock head, Webb head, RMW head, WMI, stock intake, Alta CAI, AGS, DDM CAI...

 

Thanks. So based on this rough guide, I should expect a 7% drop in HP (I presume this is max HP, but the effect is probably felt across the entire or workable rpm range) running 150F IAT compared to 80F IAT. Now I've seen an IAT of 40F in winter, and one of 180F in summer, so that 14% as an extreme, but I'm talking more usual IAT range.
I don't have much HP, probably 185whp (don't know what the IAT was then as I had no telemetry back then.) 7% of 185 is 13, so I would be down to 172. Mmm.
Now of course there's no IC out there that can keep my IAT at 80F under all conditions, but this has been instructive.
Thanks,

 

Well, the X president of Cowchip is..........

 

the ECU will dump fuel to cool the combustion chamber... A/Fs will drop a ton.

Matt

 

Very true. The EGT also starts to run away & I believe that the upstream sample, O2, is the read the ECU uses. 8:1 is still a big number for any production car...