Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain OBX vs Megan Headers

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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 08:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by harhoosh
so .. i can install my megan headers and weld the stock cat.. and i wont get the (ESE) Light ???
Yes
 
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 10:14 PM
  #27  
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= ) Ok

thx
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:27 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by UKSUV
If you do decide to go with a cat...don't put your stock one back on!
I think the stock is a viable alternative. Many here have re-used the stock cat and found that it fits perfectly, no code issues and found performance gains.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 07:23 AM
  #29  
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has anyone dyno'd with and without the cat?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 08:54 PM
  #30  
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I forgot to tell u sumthing...

Im using JCW Exhaust.. so if i installed the Megan headers.. i have to weld the stock(JCW) Cat with the headers ? to avoid the (ESE) Light ??

i know its a stupid Question :$ but.. i really need to get more information.. because my headers still in the way..
 
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #31  
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After a couple of issues I now run the Mini Mania Header and a modified flange system to run either the stock cat or a "test pipe" (no cat) and use this O2 sim www.o2sim.com
 
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:45 PM
  #32  
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Couple points...

if you have a street car, run the friggin cat! The air will thank you, I'll thank you, and the world will be a better place. The amound of reduction of emmissions is HUGE so don't screw with the air for a few HP!

If you don't know how the 02 sensors trip codes, don't install the header yourself. Go to a shop that knows what they're up to. So that they can simulate the O2 sensor if you don't run a cat (boo-hiss) or that they install it the right way if you do run the cat!

The OBX uses a graphite gasket/bushing that will last forever if the bolts that hold the springs don't come off!

As far as I know the JCW exhaust uses the same exhaust manifold that all the rest of the cars do. It's a cat-back, and it's only different well after the cat.

I don't think you'll find a Random metallic race cat for less than $150 or so. The magnaflows can be found for a lot less...

Matt
 
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 11:38 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
if you have a street car, run the friggin cat! The air will thank you, I'll thank you, and the world will be a better place. The amount of reduction of emmissions is HUGE so don't screw with the air for a few HP!
+1
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:49 PM
  #34  
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so which header is better?
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by lanevomr
so which header is better?
MINI Mania.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 06:47 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs

The OBX uses a graphite gasket/bushing that will last forever if the bolts that hold the springs don't come off!

Matt

Copper nut or double nut.

Those buying the OBX header will avoid any problems if they read all of the threads on the OBX header.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 08:21 AM
  #37  
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if you don't know how the 02 sensors trip codes, don't install the header yourself. Go to a shop that knows what they're up to. So that they can simulate the O2 sensor if you don't run a cat (boo-hiss) or that they install it the right way if you do run the cat!
how is the install done right?
by not kinking the 02 wires? i mean what else is there to it other than screwing it back in? Considering the cat stays of course...

Copper nut or double nut.

Those buying the OBX header will avoid any problems if they read all of the threads on the OBX header.
so you'e saying the nut/bolt they provide is no good?
why would it come off, i thought there's a spring involved...can't tell yet cause i haven't received mine yet.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 09:30 AM
  #38  
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If you're doing a cat..

then it's easy, just don't twist the O2 sensor wires. If you're going catless (boo hiss) there is work to do to keep the check engine light off.

Yes the bolts on the OBX suck. With them not binding because of the spring, they need some sort of retainer that they don't come with. It took me well over a year to loose a bolt, but given time, they all will come loose. You can just get a nut from the hardware store to use as a lock nut.

Matt
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 09:34 AM
  #39  
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how about using some blue locktite on the provided nuts so they don't back out?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 09:36 AM
  #40  
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Nope...

it's an exhaust pipe. The stuff will get too hot and cook. REally, even the high temp lock-tite isn't good here. You can get two nuts for about a buck fifty at the hardware store....

Matt
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:43 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by robino
so you'e saying the nut/bolt they provide is no good?
why would it come off, i thought there's a spring involved...can't tell yet cause i haven't received mine yet.
The bolts they provide are fine but can come loose do to vibration.

IF you don't want to be under the car for a second time - you need to double nut or COPPER nut the bolts. Do this and it will never be an issue.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 11:11 AM
  #42  
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robino, read this, look at the pictures

Originally Posted by robino
how about using some blue locktite on the provided nuts so they don't back out?
add to it if you like. Don't think there is a question about the OBX that hasn't been asked.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&highlight=obx
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #43  
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double nut it is then...
i'm used to that anyway as i have to 'double nut' each mornin' just to start the day...ok, tmi
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:31 AM
  #44  
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OT: how many o2 sims will a Mini need? you need only 1 for 2 secondary sensors right?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:47 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mini_macky
OT: how many o2 sims will a Mini need? you need only 1 for 2 secondary sensors right?
Forget about 02 sims.
It has two 02 sensors, one before the CAT, one after the CAT.
Reuse them just don't get them mixed up or twist the wires.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 06:56 AM
  #46  
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If you're still looking for a good cat, here's my choice. Magnaflow 59956, 300 cell high-flow metallic, 4" OD x 8" length overall (compact), 2.5" ID pipe (slip fit). On the down side, I couldn't find it for less than $105 and it doesn't come with a built in O2 sensor bung.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #47  
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kurv...
that looks like it might work...weld it on there and throw a bung after it
thanks.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:08 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by robino

the resonator that Megan shows in the pic isn't included with the header, they sell it with a straight pipe instead...never was too crazy about those resonators as they all pretty much sound like them rice-a-roni fart can cars.

No, it does come exactly as pictured, I have 2 of them. The first one I purchased, the flex joints came apart, I got tired of waiting for the replacement and bought another from OM. Still havent recieved the replacement from the first. You also do need the o2 eliminator to keep the lights from coming on in the megan, as soon as I fired mine up the CEL came on. Added o2sim.com and cleared the code, and it stayed away, but I have also since installed a cat.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:47 PM
  #49  
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well i ordered the OBX (liked the 4-2-1 design better) i'll add the 300 cell cat to the whole thing, the Alta 2.5" exhaust i have coming sounds kind of quiet which i like, didn't want to ruin it by removing the cat which i think might have added a bit of unwanted noise.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #50  
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We'll end up with nearly identical setups then. None of my stuff is installed yet but I have a coated OBX header (plus a few extra bits of hardware thanks to recommendations by norm03s), the Mag cat I linked above (plus an extra flange so I can make the cat removable), and an Alta catback. Of course I have an MC (non-S) so I'll have to mod the rear section of the Alta, but it's a very simple mod, and it'll even be a bit lighter.
 
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