Hello everyone, I need some helpl. My car is equipped with the JCW package, 19% pulley, GIAC remap, Bosch injectors, Alta intake, and WEBB exhaust. Everytime I push my car to high rev limits and boost (about 18psi) my DSC light comes on and my service engine soon light. My DSC light i am used to coming on, but now for some reason the service engine soon light comes on. It goes off after 3-4 starts. I had my seats changed and an ohm resistor was used so the airbag light wouldn't come on, do you think this is causing my serivice engine light to come on now when I boost high or is it something else. Any info would be great. Thanks

 

service engine soon light = Boost too hight -> check with OBD II at Autozoon to see what code was show before engine off.

airbag light = unplug airbag sensor under the seat -> everytime unplug sensor need ECU reset at dearship.

Hope it help!

 

Thanks for the reply. My airbag light does not come on after the new seats were put in because an Ohm resistor was put it. But after that was put in i noticed that my oil pressure gauge takes like an hour of driviing for the needle to move and my oil temp guage doesn't work. When I used to boost high before my service engine soon light never came on, just the DSC light, but now the service engine soon light comes on everytime I boost my car high. Do you still think it is the overboosting that is causing this light to come on or something else.

 

Check your intercooler boots and make sure they are super tight.

I had mine loosen up on me before causing a P0171 error (System too lean).

I just had this happen to me today where the SES light came on for only a few seconds and had some very strange throttle response.

Check those boots - they are a pain.

 

This happens to me also!.. around 3500 to 4000 rpms my check engine light goes on and turns off after acouple days..( or 3-4 restarts i guess, like you said)... what is going on!??

 

I get it when I rev to redine with 17% injectors and giac the dsc turns off and i can't get the dsc back on intill i restart the engine and with this cold weather it happens at 5000 or 6000 rpms in third gear

 

I have learned that the lights come on due to overboosting. Once you reach 17psi, the DSC light comes on and the check engine light. The DSC light will come off the next time you start the car, and the check engine light will come off after 3-4 starts. Hope this helps.

 

yea i get all that also... and i also have bigger injectors and a giac...
so isnt 17 psi not that much? how do the faster minis wit more psi run there cars??
and is this a bad thing? do i have to remap or somthing??

 

Can you post the actual code you're pulling off the ecu? I've been getting a recurring P0172 code (system too rich) which may be related to the ethanol fuel used in this area (NE). I am going back to the OEM mini ecu software to pass my inspection (can't get by with the engine light on all the time). Where did you get your GIAC flash? The vendor will want to know what code you're getting.... FWIW, I'm in contact with Eric at Helix concerning this issue and we're chatting about what the issues could be. It would be nice to know what code you're seeing.

 

I had my Service Engine soon light come on after having the stg 2 head with cam, throttle body, Nology wires and OCC installed just little over a week ago!!

 

I have basically the same setup as Chaincoopers and have been getting the same error code P0172. Car runs great but resetting the SES light becomes annoying. With the 19% pulley, GIAC tune, headers and Alta intake I didn't get the error, but after I switched to the DDM airbox and added the M7 DFIC I started getting the error. The wierd part is that the light seems to come on at the same spot where I travel. I was thinking that the high power lines running across the road may be causing it or the Cell phone tower. Those are the only things I notice when it comes on, but not all the time.

 

Did you get your GIAC flash at helix? If so, alert Eric. We may be onto something here. I don't understand how the ddm airbox would have any effect, maybe the DFIC, but we may be onto something. When did you put the airbox and DFIC on? Exactly though, car runs great, I just keep getting that code.

 

Yes, Eric at Helix did the pulley and GIAC flash. This was done last May and ran without any error code, then in August I put the DFIC and DDM airbox on, and within a few days I started getting the errors. I will let Eric know I am having the same problem

 

I've just emailed Eric, but could the DFIC boots be just a bit loose, causing a slight loss of boost at high revs, such that we get a rich condition? Could be it... I'll have to check my boots after I get my car back later this week (in for 10K service). Or perhaps the DFIC is causing a larger pressure loss than the stock intercooler, requiring a slight tweak of the tune. Who knows, lets see what the master says.

 

I just got back from the shop. Mine was the 180 Thermostat that they had installed. My "Service engine light soon" will still stay on unless I change the THEROM back to stock.

Apparently my car is running a little colder which is better for generting more power.

 

I have double, triple check the boots and they seem to be fine (I am using the GTT boots).I even went so far as to use high temp silicon glue around the outside edges to make sure there were no leaks, but I will check again as any suggestions would be helpful. I have thought about switching back to the original IC to see if that cures the problem, just have not got around to it yet

 

I'm just throwing out everything I can think of, I'm pretty sure my boots are fine too. Eric is in the loop, hopefully we'll get sorted.

 

Need to find out if invol 0-2 sensor 1 or 2. If it is 2 best fix is installing a resistor( electronic )0-2 simulator. Have had repeated prob. since Intake, install, header's, free flow cat ,Exhaust and 15% pulley. 0-2 Cel would go on at almost the same spot ea night. Sound's like you have almost same setup. Resistor can be purchased from Mini Mania. Have only had mine on for 1 week and appear's to be fixed. Was to the point of either irgnoring or going stock. This modification will not contribute to pollution as cat will still work and other codes will still function. If you want to wipe out the entire message that the cat send's to the ECU you can add second Omh resistor to the heater wire from the cat therefore no more Cell from cat, intake etc. The triggor for Rich or Lean usually comes from Sensor 2. Basically what happen's is -Rich will show low voltage 0-2 sensor -2, Rich will show voltage > .6, thus ECU will triggor,. Resistor electronic will not allow reading of high or low, thus no triggor for thiose 2 condition's.

 

How did you reset the SES light?

 

Just use a peake tool or other similar OBDII plug-in tool. Very simple. They're online for a hundred bucks or so from many vendors. You can also borrow one from the local autozone, etc. Or have the dealer take a look?

 

Cool. I got a code P0456 which is an Evaporative Emissions System (very small leak). I changed the oil this weekend so I'm thinking that I didn't close the oil cap very tightly to the point of clicking. I just want to have it reset to see if it came on. Has anyone else had this code logged in their system or know of any other troubleshooting items to look at?

 

Ah, my old nemesis, the P0456 code. In my case, it came on every 5th start or so and stayed on. Turned out it was a leaking grommet. Have that checked out - could be something simple like your gas cap, but could be a leaking grommet, carbon canister, leak diagnostic pump, etc. Have it checked!

 

My car is not under warranty anymore so I'm trying to find out the issues myself before having to resort to go to a dealer. Mini over here charges at least $208 for a 2 hour diagnostic + whatever it is to fix the car. Every time your light came on, did you have to go to the dealer to have them check it out? This could get expensive out of warranty.

 

I cleared the code about 3 times a week for the better part of a year before flipping out and insisting they find the cause of the leak. Every time the dealer cleared the light it would magically stay off long enough for them to conclude I was nuts, but it turned out to be a leaking grommet.

 

I installed the MTH tuner config and was getting P0170/1 (too lean) and P1498 codes when I ran over 5k RPM for 15mins. It would go off if I settled down my driving for a couple days then come right back ON when I raced it. I never had no odd performance or noise. Then I found that if I ran it HOT, 5K-6K most of a day, it seemed the computer adjusted to the lean condition and rich'd up my mixture...and the light went off. It started when I installed the MTH tuner. I don't know if this explaination is accurate.