Anybody notice they've had problems with maintaining traction after doing the pulley swap?

I had mine done on Tuesday and it feels like I can't take full advantage of it because if I get on it to any degree, I simply can't stick to the road!

Kinda bums me out!

 

Turn DSC off. Makes a world of difference!

-Cody

 

Is this a problem? It's learning time. First check your tires and the surface your driving on. If your spinning them chances are you need better rubber. Then as they say in F1 practice saving your tires. At the point you can feel it give don't go past it. You've now moved the limiting factor from being the engine to the contact patch with the road and how you drive it. Be safe. You said it you can now stomp it and get more power than you can control going to the road.

 

You'll notice as you start modding your MCS, you're going to have to learn to roll into the throttle as opposed to just mashing it down from a stop. If twincharged guys can put power to the ground, there is no reason why a pullied MCS cant either!

 

When I out my 17% pulley in, I was burning rubber left and right for the first few weeks until I got a better feel for the new power.

 

Get some softer rubber. Best mod you could make

 

start w/ the nut behind the wheel

 

Do you have the LSD?

 

You really shouldn't have any wheelspin problems with a 15% pullied car. My best advice for you is to drive slower and safer and get better tires.

 

Haha.... I'm sure thats out of the question. Try the new Falken Azenis RT-615's. Sticky rubber for the price....

 

Gee, I was just going to say that I've never had wheel spin problems--but it's probably because I have RT-615s ! They sure do stick to planet earth. Not as much fun as krappy tires perhaps but great on track days too.

cheers,

 

After better tires (Falken RT-615's are a great choice!) Think about better shocks. Helps keep weight from transfering the rear (increased resistance to rebound in the front and increased resistance to compression in the rear)

 

okay, I was away from my PC last night after starting this thread, so I'll try to respond to all the comments in one reply...

Turn off DSC - I'll try that...but wouldn't that would just increase the spin by not decreasing the engine speed to compensate for the slip?

LSD - No, I don't have it.

Tires - I have the Dunlop performance runflats that came on my webspokes. To date, I've been pleased with them, but perhaps these are contributing to the problem. Since I've only got ~13K miles on them and they haven't been 'burned' in the past, I doubt I'll be replacing them anytime soon, so I'll have to learn to compensate.

Nut behind the wheel/driving style - I'm not the WOT from a dead stop kind of driver and as such, I've never 'lit up' the tires of my MCS.

I started the post because it initially seemed to me that I was not feeling the boost I expected to, I thought perhaps the belt was not catching the pulley (which didn't seem that likely since you don't have to change the belt length with a 15% reduction). Then I realized that the DSC light was flickering and put 2 and 2 together.

 

LSD makes a world of a difference.

 

X2!!

It is much better to have both wheels working rather than only one!

 

I agree with you and have modded past the 15% pulley and I have no such problems unless I'm launch the car by reving to 3-4,000 and dropping the clutch .

 

That's your biggest problem right now. The RF's have very poor traction. Living in KC you're going to have to decide between all season tires with ok grip or getting a winter tire and a summer high performance tire. You don't want summer hp's in the winter in KC. It's dangerous. If you're willing to swap out twice a year then get the two different types and you'll instantly notice the difference. It's like night and day from RF's. Otherwise you will have to learn how to control the power to the wheel a lot better than you have been. I've been there as have most of the folk replying to your original q. I think everyone north of the mason-dixon have gone to the two tire type solution and most of those south have gone to summer hp's only. You'll find a ton of info on this in the tire/wheel section of threads.

 

Now that its time to switch over to winter tires for all of us northerners, this issue is a little more widespread. I ran 215/45/17 GY GSD3 in the summer and now just switched back to the stock 17 inch RS-A runflats. WOW. Not only is there much less traction because it is an all season tire, gearing has also been reduced. I only lose traction in first gear while pulling out/turning. Or if its wet out in the first few gears. I do not have the LSD either, might want to look into that.

 

ALSO!

TIRE PRESSURE.

Don't know what your running, but generally reducing to around 33psi can help get a little more traction under your shoes.

Or you could bump up to a wider tire.... 235's anyone... hehehe

 

i love this one. hell mine wanders in third gear ; it's fun!!!!

 

Anytime traction is reduced, whether because of slippery pavement or tires that aren't especially sticky such as the OE tires, you may experience this limitation. As some have suggested, you can just buy stickier tires. But even still, you may have to deal with it from time to time.

The best approach is to learn a technique of applying the throttle more gently in the first few tenths of a second and then squeezing the throttle down, "feeling" for the point at which traction is lost. Try to make your throttle "tip-in" very smooth. It may help to think in terms of credit card thicknesses. I've found that two credit card thicknesses of throttle position is a nice starting place.

Tip-in is more than half the battle with a front-wheel drive car such as ours. It's the weight transfer as much as it is the additional torque from the smaller pulley. And as you master this, you'll be on you way to developing the ability to sense the loss of traction and balance the car right there on the edge.

Now is a good time to promote a trip (or ten!) to a High Performance Driver's School, since the kinds of driving I'm taliking about are best enjoyed on a closed course. In that environment you would have a safe opportunity to learn the traction limits of your car and expand on your skills. (And, it would be a lot of fun!)

In any case, you'll soon learn how to avoid the wheelspin that's taking part of your fun away. And when you do... slow down, boy! you don't want to get a ticket.

 

tire pressure is a really important case. I've tested it many times in track, and it really matters. Than comes the DSC, you should close the DSC and have better feelings with the gas pedal.

Better shocks , weight savings and many other things really effect the wheelspin. I disabled the abs and everything and have a 3 sec better lap in 1min38sec track..

 

all these items people are suggesting truly are good investments...

but like i said in an earlier post, the nut behind the wheel.
i understand that you're not a WOT kinda person, but seriously... you have to adjust your driving style... (this is not an attack of any kind )
one cannot expect an "s" to run the same way w/ a reduced pulley... it's gonna have more torque/horses out the gate....

my suggestion, try to adjust your driving style before going out and spending all this dough on struts/shocks, new tires, this, that etc...
learn to tame your lead foot...