Ok, well I did the install this weekend and it went just fine. Thought I'd share some pictures and tips I gathered along the way. This is by no means meant to be a complete set of instructions. I did not take note of bolt sizes. Just make sure to have a complete kit of metric tools and you'll be fine. One specific tool that did really come in handy was a 10mm open end ratchet, or whatever it's called. Basically it looks like an open end wrench but allows you to wrench like with a socket. You get my drift.

So anyway....

1-Get ready to remove your engine mount bolts. Have your jack ready to take the engine weight before you start removing bolts. If you have a lowered car like mine, you may find it necessary to jack up the passenger side to get correct clearance for the jack.

2-Remove the passenger side torque brace. It's the black metal bracket with hoses clipped to it. Unclip the hoses attached to it, then take out the two bolts. Next remove the nut from the ball mount looking thing.



3-Unbolt the ground strap on the passenger side. You can see it on the bottom of the picture above.

4-Really make sure the engine is supported by the jack now.

5-Remove the bolt under the passenger side of the engine.



6-Remove stock airbox top or your aftermarket item. The bottom of the air box must also be removed. There is one bolt in the front, unhook the intake hoses and then pull back and up to remove. May require some wrangling to get around the intercooler cover, but it will come out.

7-Remove the ECU cover cap and then unplug the harness clips. They have tabs you must pull out, one facing front, one back. As you pull the tabs out the harness clips come out. Also remove the screw behind right of the ECU so that the box can move freely. This allows access to the hidden motor mount bolt underneath. The location of this ECU bolt is around the top middle of the shot below in step 8.

8-Now with the airbox top and bottom and the ECU harness clips unplugged, you'll remove the last three bolts holding the engine in. We found it handy to leave the top right bolt in place untill the engine started to come up. This kept the driver's side from lifting too much and keeps the passenger side getting more elevation. Once the engine starts coming up, remove that last bolt.



9-Now CAREFULLY jack up the engine. We found it necessary to kinda rock the engine off the ball mount post to the side of the passenger torque brace. Continue to GENTLY rock the engine as you jack it up to make sure it's not catching on anything. We heard some minor squeeks of the alternator rubbing against some plastic in the bumper, but no big worry. Just be aware as you jack.



10-Now for some annoyance. The belt tensior is not very tool friendly. Now that you have the engine jacked up so that the shaft of the pulley is no lower than parallel with the engine bay side, you'll have access to remove the tensior. Start by pressing back on the C arm near the spring location. This will contract the spring and cause the tension pin to appear at the other side. Stick some pice of metal to hold that clip out. I used a small screwdriver. The tension is now pent and you can remove the bolts holding it to the engine. The back lower two are not fun to remove. Here's where the 10mm open end ratchet comes in handy. The far back lower bolt can be removed with a socket, but the front lower is the evil one. The higher you can jack up the engine, the easier this will be to remove.



11-Alright, you've got the tensioner off. Now it's time to attack the pulley. I used the P&D puller and attached a crow's foot to it to remove the stock pulley. Worked like a charm.



Here's the new 15% smaller pulley next to the old stock one.



12-Here's a good time to take a break. Throw your pulley hub (or the whole pulley depending on whether it's a solid billet piece or the hub-n-pulley type like I'm using) in the oven at the highest temp you can get. Let it cook for about a half hour. Then remove from the oven and RUN to your car to slide it onto the supercharger shaft. It will go on really easy at first so be quick and don't put it on too far. You want it absolutely flush with the shaft. It will cool quickly, too, so be careful. Don't tap on the supercharger shaft if you didn't get it on enough. I got to about 0.5mm just by hand. Your pulley should come with a set tool. It's a bolt with a nut on it, that has a smaller thread at the bottom. You thread it on the end of the shafter and crank down. Then hold the bolt end with a socket and tighten down the nut to push the pulley totally one flush.



13-Now attach the pulley itself. I found it was necessary to heat it up slightly to slide over the hub. Line up the holes before it cools. Apply some thread lock to the end of the allen bolts and then screw 'em down, but don't torque too too hard on 'em. That's what the thread lock is for. Let it do it's job, don't over tighten or you can crack or break the bolt.



14-Now reinstall the tensioner. Line up the bolt holes and reinstall the bolts. Before you insert the top two bolts, make sure the belt is lined up correctly. The stock belt is fine, there's plenty of tension holding it in place once your're done reinstalling the tensioner. Once the belt is in place and the tensiorer is bolted back up, pull your screwdriver or whatever out of the tension pin. It will now firmly secure the belt.

15-Carefully lower the engine back down. I first made sure the passenger side lined up when lowering, then secured the driver's side. Then went under the car and reinstalled the under engine mounting bolt. You may have to lift up on the engine a little bit to get this last under engine mounting bolt in place.

You're done! Now go scare your neighbors by leaving your bonnet open in the driveway of your house and rev the engine to redline. The supercharger scream is absolutely AMAZING!!! Ok, that you've proved you can handle a wrench and have completely annoyed your neighbors with grunts and supercharger whine, go roast some tires and enjoy all that fresh torque and ponies.

Randy, if you took note of bolt sizes durring your install, feel free to edit this post.

R

 

Great job!

I was going to do the how to, this weekend but my digital camera battery wasnt cooperating, i was trying to help randy out since he has been so busy and the fact im the one that found this way out! but your how to post is excellent, so thanks!!

 

Ya, I basically took yours and JLM's general directions and went with that. Thought it might be more helpful to have some pictures of the specifics. Glad the originator approves.

R

 

Bravo! How long did it take? Any band-aids on the fingers? Were you able to compress the tensioner by hand?

 

Lol By the way i did the same with the small screwdriver on the tensioner, kinda looks shade tree but it works!!

 

I would add that you may as well go down to your local NAPA dealer and get the slightly shorter belt, (sorry I don't have the part number handy, but a few have psoted it) for about $20; my guy had it in stock.
then your tensioner setting will be closer to stock.

 

Took about 3 hours total...4 hours with breaks.

We did actually get the replacement belts but found that the stock was more than fine. Very taught. I'll post the belt number later (it's in the garage) but it was like $22 I think.

R

 

Nice work Ryan. A tool list is helpful for folks too.

The motor mount bolts are 16mm, and the two rear tensioner bolts are 10mm.

I have a tensioner tool that I made from some steel stock welded up. With that tool the job took me about an hour. You don't have to remove all three bolts on the driver side, you can just pull the one 16mm bolt that goes into it.

Other than that, beautiful work!

Thanks for the help.

Randy

 

Thanks Randy.

R

 

Having done a ton of these by now I would add a few things to your well written how to.

1. DO not forget to undo the negitive side of the battery first! You do not want any charge when you are working with the ECU. While your at it, do not close the trunk, If you do you will need to hook up a battery in the engine compartment in order to reconect the battery.

2. All of the motor mounts are16mm , the one mount under the dog bone is an 18mm, the ground strap is a 13mm.

3. Be careful of the plug that rest on the bottom the the coil pack, It will lean up on the overlow tank. There can be alot of pressure on this when you are moving the motor and it is not that strong.

4. The top hose mount on the front of the motor can be undone as it can get pretty snug when the motor is all the way up.

5. I would do the final torque on the bolts(4mm ) that hold on the pulley when you have the belt and tension back on.

Yes, all you need to remove on the drivers side mount is the pivot bolt.

 

Wow! That looks a lot easier. I think.

I'm surprised that the exhaust system, radiator hoses, half-shafts, and clutch hydrolic line have enough travel for that kind of distance.

 

Ah, the pivot bolt. Gotcha.

Ok, so hypothetically, if I left the battery plugged in....???

R

 

Well, I quess hypothetically, there is a good chance that nothing happened, hypothetically. Man, what temp did you cook that hub @ looks like it turned a little blue. We have not heated up the pulley in order to get it over the hub, if you wait 5 minutes it should be cool enough to get it over the hub. Enjoy the pulley!

 

Great Work Davbret!!

You convinced me. Randy...I'm ready.

All I need is a Loaner/Rental of a puller..NYC tri-state area. Any takers?

Don't know where I'm going to put the extra power though.

Who is going to come up with the 4 hour, skinned-cat LSD install hack?

 

Warranty vs. 12 HP...
Warranty vs. better MCS sounds...
Warranty vs. seat of the pants kick...

Decisions...decisions...with 3000 miles on the clock.

Not yet, but the time will come!

 

Well Jim, feel free to cruise up to Portland when you're ready and I'll help you install. You can also pick up the part from Madness here, too, and save on shipping.

R

 

For those of you attempting pulley replacement yourselves I thought I would share a bit about my experience that may prove helpful. The how-to’s and other comments are very complete and take most all of the guesswork out of the operation. The most difficult part of the operation is the actual pulley removal and reassembly. I used the P&D pulley removal tool which allows for a quick, simple, non-destructive removal. I am sure that other methods would be effective but this tool makes it a no-brainer 5 minute job. The pulley is a press fit. Therefore, the new pulley hub must be heated in order to fit it to the shaft without a press. You DON’T have a lot of time. A 500 degree heat may give you 5 seconds to slip it on to the shaft before it locks up. I found it necessary to go with a bit higher heat. This will vary depending on the tolerances of your core and shaft. I don’t know how much heat the supercharger shaft seal can take and for how long. Be ready with a small puller if you don’t make it. The core will pull off easily if you don’t put it on too far. Heat up the core as close to the shaft as you can and plan in advance exactly what tools you will use to hold it and insert it on the shaft. Practice this procedure a couple of times cold. It will save you a lot of headaches and anxiety! Make sure that both the shaft and core id are clean (320 emery paper) and lubricate the shaft with a thin coating of high temp grease. This will make a final press much easier if needed. It is imperative to have the core flush with the end of the shaft so that it will track properly with the belt line and the belt will not contact engine bolts. It is also imperative that you don’t push the core on too far as it will be VERY difficult to pull it back out without destroying it as you will not be able to access the back flange with a puller.

If I had it to do again, I would fabricate a guide consisting of a large washer with holes drilled in it. You would screw the washer into the pulley core mounting holes and it would block off the end of the hole. With this tool you could heat the entire assembly and push it on the shaft firmly and quickly without fear of “overshooting” the desired flush mount. You would then remove the locating washer. The alternative to this “locating tool” would be to quickly push it onto the shaft being careful not to overshoot and if you come up a bit short you can press it the last quarter inch or so.

The final press fit can be accomplished by utilizing several lengths of 8mm grade 10 bolts with high strength washers and sockets. Making sure that you are using as much thread length as possible in the shaft centerbore, very slowly and carefully press the core the final bit. Others have fabricated an assembly tool that would allow the same pressing operation without using the shaft centerbore to do the pulling. This is much safer.

I found it easier to relocate the engine back on its mounts if you use two jacks under the engine. I used a “Dental Mirror” to spot the driver side engine mount hole and adjusted the two jacks to line it up.

Good Luck!