I'm thinking of adding a 19% pulley to my S automatic cabrio and I'd be interested in any feedback on other autoboxes that have done the swap. I've read the pros & cons of the 15%/17%/19% and for the sedate driving I usually do (no track time) I'd like to fatten up the bottom end from idle to 3K. But I haven't seen any posts from any autobox users.

 

Do you plan on installing it yourself? Keep in mind that if you are, there is no how-to (to my knowledge) for the automatics. You can follow the how-to for the manual, but after a certain step, you are on your own.

As far as people doing it....I've heard of a few people adding the pullies to the auto's...but I would guess most people that buy the automatics don't have the want for more power....normal, non-enthusiasts anyway! Not sure about NAM people.

-Cody

 

Have a modified '06 MCS 6-speed, currently setup for autox season, and my wife has an '05 MCSa,

When we take road trips, she likes to go in hers, because it's not nearly as "harsh".

So I put a 15% pulley on hers, as well as the auto tranny version of the Alta CAI, and the H-sport rear sway.

She likes it better and I like it a lot better.

In fact, it's great on road trips (say, 250-500 miles).

And it pulls around slower traffic with ease.

No problems after 10k miles. But a lot more fun.

Oh, we ditched the runflats as well, which helped the performance and the ride.

 

And don't forget that not only does he want to put it on an MCSa but a drop top MCSa as well. This might be next to impossible due to the extra chassis bracing that comes in to play when you remove the Tin Top.

 

My experience with the MCSa and pulleis is very similar to the MCS. The smaller the pulley the smaller the belt. So remember the smaller belt. Also many suggest with a 17 or 19 to get larger injectors and do a ECU flash to help with the fuel delivery. But as others have said the install is much harder due to the closer area around the serpentine belt. I believe a trick is remove the passenger side wheel and remove the wheel well (plastic).

I've had a 15% on my MCSa for 17,500 miles and I am very happy. I think going to a smaller pulley isn't needed. Get other mods, I just put on a header with a high flow metallic CAT (Cat-back exhuast coming). I am very happy with this current combo. I've tried a few ecu mods and they don't seem to do much to the car's performance, mostly due to the tranny. None have adjusted the trannie's shift points.

But for those who have read about my and my car they know my car has had a ton of parts on and off it. I have tried many parts and had my issues with them and sold and changed out. Most issues occur with the Auto because the engine+tranny are larger due to the tranny so there is less room left to right. Also the engine sits up higher so there is less room between the engine and the bonnet. So a larger IC is tricky.

My car might be the exception but I also had a stock size lightened crank on my car for about 3k miles and it did help the car's performance. The engine did just as a MCS and spooled up faster and had more power. But with the MCSa the ECU couldn't keep up with the revs and shifted at a new redline of 7200rpm. My car also had tons of vibrations, especially when cruising on the highway.

I could go on and on...but I have one car and my experiences. I don't have a fleet of car for which to experiment on.

 

we have had NO problems whatsoever putting the pulley on automatics! Its a little tighter... but still got the job done quickly. We didn't have to spend anymore time with an auto than we did a manual... Well if you want to get picky maybe a minute or two... but thats about it.

good luck! You will love it!

 

I have an Alta 17% on a 2005 MCSa. The torque curve has definitely gotten fatter. Where before the s/c pulley, I would be winding the engine out to around 5,500 rpms before shifting up; after the s/c pulley, I find the up-shifting occurs around 3,500 to 4,000 rpm. Also, merging onto the highway is much less challenging. Before the s/c pulley, I would have to plan my merge to make sure I wasn't going to get squashed. After the s/c pulley, merging is as simple as punching it and finding an open slot to move into. Getting ahead of traffic on the merge is real easy to do - in no time flat, you can find yourself going 80 - 90 mph.

One other mod you might want to consider - losing the OEM wheels for low-weight wheels. I lost ~80 lbs. in rotational mass by going with SSR Comps (from the factory S-lites). In the process it seemed like I lost a phantom passenger (and a fat one at that) - the car accelerated faster (before I put the 17% s/c pulley on) and stopped shorter as well.

 

You're preaching to the choir on wheels. I just dropped my 25 lb S lites & runflats for 12 lb Ultralegerras and I've definately noticed a difference all around. Yea, it does feel like dropping a passenger. Amazing how dropping 50 lbs of rotational mass can feel like 250 lbs of curb weight.

 

How do you get 25 lbs for S-lites and runflat tires? The combination of S-lites and Goodyear RSAs was tipping the scale at 55 lbs. each. Pulling them off my car, was like WTF is with these? Did MINI pour lead into the tire???? Putting on the SSRs with the non-runflats afterward was a breeze.

 

Have an '60 MCSa, installed a 15% pulley at 3800 miles together with the shorter belt, cold air intake, and iridium plugs... Only regret is that I waited that long to do it. Car has more "snap" pulls like a train, loads more fun to drive.... Install was simple, just a little tighter. Yes, remove the RH wheel and fender well... Go for it! You WILL NOT be sorry!

 

Sorry, meant to say I swapped 25 lb S lites for 12 lb Ultras. Our old minivan had 16" steel wheels and the S lites felt that heavy when I pulled them. It was really surprising how much lighter the OZs felt compared to the OEMs. But I couldn't remember how much the runflats weighed in at vs my Yokos so I was trying to compare apples to apples.