Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Stahl Header & CAT back system

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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #26  
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yes more pics please, and sound clips. preferably installed, on-car pics.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Johan
Don,

I have another ? for you...I understand that this is mainly a race system but for those of us who choose to run this on the street, are we going to be seeing CEL or SES lights?

Thanks -- Johan
No, the codes are in check.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by discodan
yes more pics please, and sound clips. preferably installed, on-car pics.
You are so close why don't you come down and see it in person?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 02:46 PM
  #29  
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Street mufflers

In the drivers seat with the windows up:
75 db engine off, coasting down a hill, 35 MPH
70 db at idle
80 at 65 MPH on the highway
90 at full acceleration.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:09 AM
  #30  
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Don, if someone wanted to mate up the header system with their own exhaust system by having a local shop mod their center pipe length to mate up with the header, would you allow that approach? I'm just thinking it might open up some possibilities for those that are already invested in a cat back system, but don't mind having it modded to match the added length of your header setup.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:13 AM
  #31  
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Yes, I can do that. I'm not sure that is optimal for performance, though. I'll have pricing info probably early next week.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dmh
In the drivers seat with the windows up:
75 db engine off, coasting down a hill, 35 MPH
70 db at idle
80 at 65 MPH on the highway
90 at full acceleration.
Thanks for posting this Don!

Originally Posted by 62Lincoln
Don, if someone wanted to mate up the header system with their own exhaust system by having a local shop mod their center pipe length to mate up with the header, would you allow that approach?
Originally Posted by dmh
Yes, I can do that. I'm not sure that is optimal for performance, though. I'll have pricing info probably early next week.
Cool I was just going to ask if you can buy the header separate. Can you give us just the price of the header and cat when you release your price list?

Thanks for keeping us up-dated - Johan
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 06:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dmh
Yes, I can do that. I'm not sure that is optimal for performance, though. I'll have pricing info probably early next week.
Very cool. It seems like the reasonable thing to do is to give a disclaimer that going with an existing cat back system might result in less than optimal performance versus your complete system. However, it might also give better 'wallet' feelings for those that already have an aftermarket cat back installed.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 06:48 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by dmh
In the drivers seat with the windows up:
75 db engine off, coasting down a hill, 35 MPH
70 db at idle
80 at 65 MPH on the highway
90 at full acceleration.
Don, do you remember is this is this A, C, or flat weighting?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 06:58 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by hornguys
Don, do you remember is this is this A, C, or flat weighting?
Good question. I'm no sound expert. I cannot remember what the setting was at. I will re-measure later today and repost my findings. But please tell me, A or C? Those are my choices.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dmh
Good question. I'm no sound expert. I cannot remember what the setting was at. I will re-measure later today and repost my findings. But please tell me, A or C? Those are my choices.
A is weighted to ignore lower frequencies.

C registers most of the lows and may approximate our hearing at these kinds of levels a bit more. It will, however, result in a higher reading.

That's why I asked, to see if you were already on C weighting.

The deltas would be more telling on C than A.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 02:00 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dmh
In the drivers seat with the windows up:
75 db engine off, coasting down a hill, 35 MPH
70 db at idle
80 at 65 MPH on the highway
90 at full acceleration.
Vent open or closed? It makes a difference.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Johan
This system looks pretty cool from Precision-Mini!

Don, why did you decide to go with the turbo style mufflers?

How loud is this system with a ported head and large Throttle body?

Do you have to modify the back bumper or is something going to be included with the kit?

Any idea on a price yet?

Please keep us up-dated with sound clips with HP and TQ numbers!

Thank -- Johan
damb !!!!!!!!!!!! this is what i wanted!! but noone that i could think of carried it a year ago . oh well . it looks great from an old school perspective.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 06:01 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gowest
Vent open or closed? It makes a difference.
The vents were open.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 08:11 AM
  #40  
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A few more questions.

#1. What are the exit diameters of the "Y" with the 2.5" and 3" main exhaust pipe?

#2. How far back is the entrance of the CAT moved back from the OEM entrance location?

#3. Can the flex joint and CAT positions be reversed? I'm stuck with SCCA's STX autocross class rules which only permit the CAT to be moved up to 6".

#4. How long are the mufflers, entrance to exit tip?

#5 What would you recommend for a my 2003 JCW 210 with Alta or Madness intake and a light weight, 0%, crank pulley? With my current, London Stainless header, I'm already over 185 whp and it did 196 whp and 170 ft./lbs@ 3.8k, in 3rd gear, before I got the crank pulley. I still haven't found an after market software program that did anything for me, and I tried several but will still keep looking. A very strong midrange is what I'm looking for.

Just thought to add some sound #'s from my now quiet system. Windows closed, vent closed (2-3 db difference), Idle is 78 dbC and 58 dbA, 70 mph in 5th or 6th is 93 dbC and 77 dbA.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 04:58 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by gowest
A few more questions.

#1. What are the exit diameters of the "Y" with the 2.5" and 3" main exhaust pipe?

#2. How far back is the entrance of the CAT moved back from the OEM entrance location?

#3. Can the flex joint and CAT positions be reversed? I'm stuck with SCCA's STX autocross class rules which only permit the CAT to be moved up to 6".

#4. How long are the mufflers, entrance to exit tip?

#5 What would you recommend for a my 2003 JCW 210 with Alta or Madness intake and a light weight, 0%, crank pulley? With my current, London Stainless header, I'm already over 185 whp and it did 196 whp and 170 ft./lbs@ 3.8k, in 3rd gear, before I got the crank pulley. I still haven't found an after market software program that did anything for me, and I tried several but will still keep looking. A very strong midrange is what I'm looking for.

Just thought to add some sound #'s from my now quiet system. Windows closed, vent closed (2-3 db difference), Idle is 78 dbC and 58 dbA, 70 mph in 5th or 6th is 93 dbC and 77 dbA.
1) It's a split collector: cylinders 1-4, 2-3, then together. Not a tri-Y in the sense that they have secondary tubing.
2 & 3) The cat is moved too far for your rules.
4) 18 1/2"
I'm driving the car on the street and it's not too loud. Not any louder that when I was trying other headers and cat backs.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by gowest
I still haven't found an after market software program that did anything for me, and I tried several but will still keep looking.
What have you tried ?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by dmh
1) It's a split collector: cylinders 1-4, 2-3, then together. Not a tri-Y in the sense that they have secondary tubing.
2 & 3) The cat is moved too far for your rules.
4) 18 1/2"
I'm driving the car on the street and it's not too loud. Not any louder that when I was trying other headers and cat backs.
More??? and some clarification.

On #1, I wanted to know the diameter of the pipes going into the mufflers.

On 2 & 3, are you saying that if I put the flex joint behind the CAT instead of in front, as shown, that the entrance to the CAT will still be more than 6" back from the OEM CAT entrance? And if so how much? If it's just a little, maybe 4" max, I can see the possibility of shortening the lead in, into the CAT.

#4. Thanks

What are you recommending, size wise and 4/1 vs 4/2/1 for a JCW 210 owner that wants to build a torque monster in the mid range and is also willing to upgrade the software.

The CAT appears to be polished stainless but the headers and collector do not. Are they coated stainless or something else? And what gauge material? I would like to see a picture of both the 4/1 and 4/2/1 collectors if possible. The collector sort of looks like a cast piece but I realize it may just be a coating.

I really do want one of these if I can make it work.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 04:09 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by gowest
More??? and some clarification.

On #1, I wanted to know the diameter of the pipes going into the mufflers.

On 2 & 3, are you saying that if I put the flex joint behind the CAT instead of in front, as shown, that the entrance to the CAT will still be more than 6" back from the OEM CAT entrance? And if so how much? If it's just a little, maybe 4" max, I can see the possibility of shortening the lead in, into the CAT.

#4. Thanks

What are you recommending, size wise and 4/1 vs 4/2/1 for a JCW 210 owner that wants to build a torque monster in the mid range and is also willing to upgrade the software.

The CAT appears to be polished stainless but the headers and collector do not. Are they coated stainless or something else? And what gauge material? I would like to see a picture of both the 4/1 and 4/2/1 collectors if possible. The collector sort of looks like a cast piece but I realize it may just be a coating.

I really do want one of these if I can make it work.
1) 3" splits into 2 1/4"
2 & 3) The primaries are 28" long. If you look at the picture on my web site you will notice that the cat is mounted under the brace.
I think you would be best with the Stage 2/split collector.
The system, as with all Stahl headers (and BMW Motorsports), is by design 16 gauge mild steel with 1800 deg paint applied. Stainless can be done but it will add a multiplier of 4 to the cost (plus they are more susceptible to cracking.)
The collector is not cast.
 

Last edited by dmh; Oct 4, 2006 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 01:50 PM
  #45  
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Any more news yet? I'm awaiting prices to decide on which route I'm gonna go next. This sounds like the next step...just depends
 
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Want-a-mini
Any more news yet? I'm awaiting prices to decide on which route I'm gonna go next. This sounds like the next step...just depends
Five more Stage 2's will be ready by Monday. I'll have all the pricing information at that time. Stay tuned...
 
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 10:41 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Bahamabart
What have you tried ?
so far i know he has tried .. Unichip, GIAC, Evo tech and couple versions of the JCW. The Unichip was also custom programmed a couple times. With the tests some gain on top end hp but lost a ton of torq in the Midrange up to 20lbs. some lost all the way around over the Stock JCW programming.

Also did several Test with different intakes and number of discs in the Suppertrap exhaust.

Test were done in 3rd gear, with same tire and rim combo at 42lbs of pressure, IC temp was check at 74 Degs before each pull (end of pull temp was 185 degs +- 5 degs), outside temp was at 72 Degs +- 2 degs, Suppertrap was set at 10 disc. I was there for most of the testing but not all of them. The above figures are what they were when i was there.

We decided on 3rd gear due to that being highest hes run at an autox. Also the Stock IC ran cooler and would get down the the Default temp quicker to begin the next test. In 4th gear we got spikes in the 200-215 range. test were done on different days at same dyno but kept all factors as close as possible for comparisions. One thing we didn't have is something to check the timing during the runs.

Hope this helps some bahama
 
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 05:52 AM
  #48  
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If you could get audio clips of the exhaust, I would love to hear how it sounds...

Another thing....What are the stock exhaust db's and how does it compare at idle, WOT (obiously louder), cruising in 6th on the highway?

Just didn't know if it would drive me nuts, or if it would be music to my ears
 
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Want-a-mini
If you could get audio clips of the exhaust, I would love to hear how it sounds...

Another thing....What are the stock exhaust db's and how does it compare at idle, WOT (obiously louder), cruising in 6th on the highway?

Just didn't know if it would drive me nuts, or if it would be music to my ears
Audio clips are useless; they cannot reproduce with any accuracy the sound.
I do not know about the stock dbs. The car I was using has most of the interior removed. The sound while cruising down the highway is fine; you can easily listen to the radio.
It's music to my ears.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 07:46 AM
  #50  
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Well then, I guess I'm waiting until Monday to see how much this is going to be going for then... If it's within my price range, I just may have to pick one up

I'm just desperately looking for a low/deep & mean toned exhaust, not too loud for the street, and good power ratings
 
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