Drivetrain DFIC diverter (alt.)
Originally Posted by gandini
This scoop would fit my diverter *perfectly*. There's quite a lot of metal around the scoop that could be removed without compromising the bonnet. We might have to modify the plastic shroud above the radiator and the associated rubber gasket, but that's easy (although it might interfere with the scoop for the AGS users).
Send me a beta... I think this will be a while in coming. Don't hold your breath. Much work to do.
Joel: (warning-- a little knowledge is dangerous, but here goes) definately true for me.
btw, I noticed that all the M7 scoops have a moulded-in bulge at the top center that interferes with a piece of metal on the bonnet, causing a high spot and places considerable tension on the two top mounting bolts. If you grind/sand it down the scoops fit much better! - Again, I wish I would have seen the first product out of mold, so if there is a problem I could catch it and correct it before it gets to anyone. I guess this is a problem of being across to country from each other.
cheers,
Send me a beta... I think this will be a while in coming. Don't hold your breath. Much work to do.
Joel: (warning-- a little knowledge is dangerous, but here goes) definately true for me.
btw, I noticed that all the M7 scoops have a moulded-in bulge at the top center that interferes with a piece of metal on the bonnet, causing a high spot and places considerable tension on the two top mounting bolts. If you grind/sand it down the scoops fit much better! - Again, I wish I would have seen the first product out of mold, so if there is a problem I could catch it and correct it before it gets to anyone. I guess this is a problem of being across to country from each other.
cheers,
dr. phil look for a PM later.
Originally Posted by TonyB
I actually Dremeled-out (cutting wheel) that tab on the bonnet, and it does allow the scoop to set more squarely...
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I actually did *both* (call me obsessive or dumb) I had Ram Intake #11 from M7 and the mounting bolts pulled out after 10 miles, so I looked for a workaround and noticed the scoop tab interferred with the tab on the bonnet, so I cut it off (but it does expose some metal to rust.) I then realized that the nub on the scoop was unnecessary, so I ground it down with a Dremel (what did we do before Dremels?) and now both my scoops (Ram and DF) fit very snuggly without any pressure on the bolts (which I Loctited just for insurance.)
Conclusion: If you grind down the nub on the scoop you dont need to cut off the metal tab on the bonnet.
cheers,
Conclusion: If you grind down the nub on the scoop you dont need to cut off the metal tab on the bonnet.
cheers,
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Originally Posted by TonyB
... Some matching blue fingernail polish did the trick on the cut edges...
Could ether of you estimate how much you removed from the scoop's tab? I'll forward suggetion, to correct problem in mold, for future parts.
Sorry for any inconvenience to all that have experienced this problem.
Sorry for any inconvenience to all that have experienced this problem.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I removed the tab until it was no longer there. The tab is in the center top under surface and with dimensions of approximately 3/4" x 5/8" x 1/8" tall. My grinding with a Dremel removed it completely. I'm sorry I don't have a scoop to photograph, as one's on my car and the other at the paint shop.
Phil
Phil
Originally Posted by gandini
I removed the tab until it was no longer there. The tab is in the center top under surface and with dimensions of approximately 3/4" x 5/8" x 1/8" tall. My grinding with a Dremel removed it completely. I'm sorry I don't have a scoop to photograph, as one's on my car and the other at the paint shop.
Phil
Phil
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
I didn't remove all of the tab on the scoop, but a good portion of it though. With the bonnet tab sectioned-out, having the scoop tab or nub drop into it served a centering function, in addtion to the bolts/holes. I had to elongate a couple of bonnet mounting holes with a rat tail file, but that was no biggie...
The Extreme Scoop is a winner, as seen on the stock and GRS testing I did last Summer, with Dr O's analysis. I feel that it's larger bite radius (sorry, I saw "Jaws" again over the weekend) will serve the DFIC well also...
The Extreme Scoop is a winner, as seen on the stock and GRS testing I did last Summer, with Dr O's analysis. I feel that it's larger bite radius (sorry, I saw "Jaws" again over the weekend) will serve the DFIC well also...
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Originally Posted by JS
Thanks. The most expedent way may be to have the fabricator fill in the entire tab area.
)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
JS: yes, I believe all new scoops have improved mounting bolt attachment. However, it was my concern with the central tab that led me to conclude it was the source of the pressure that caused the original bolts to break loose. So, removing the scoop tab might be a good idea for those with newer scoops, just to releave any pressure on the mounting bolts. I checked this morning and the bolts are holding just fine with my modifications.
cheers, and thanks for taking this issue up with M7.
cheers, and thanks for taking this issue up with M7.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,926
Likes: 40
From: Greensboro, NC
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
in fact, I DOUBLE DARE you!
Matt
Takes ya back, doesn't it? I haven't broken out a double dare isnce, like kindy-garden!
Matt
Takes ya back, doesn't it? I haven't broken out a double dare isnce, like kindy-garden!
I'm sourcing sheet aluminum for the new diverter...
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Geez, that's an extreme cut...
You'd need some way of blending the edge back down, like on the new DF scoop to meet the Al diverter, and you'll have to remove the rubber seal/gasket above the radiator in that area. The problem then becomes engine movement, if the diverter is attached to the engine, due to exaggeration of movement at distance. When closed, the bonnet is "one" with the body work, including the plastic piece above the radiator, so why not attach the diverter to the scoop, or above the radiator, then deal with engine movement through rubber gaskets to the DFIC? I know my engine damper has reduced movement considerably,but it still moves a little, especially back and forth.
But I likee...
You'd need some way of blending the edge back down, like on the new DF scoop to meet the Al diverter, and you'll have to remove the rubber seal/gasket above the radiator in that area. The problem then becomes engine movement, if the diverter is attached to the engine, due to exaggeration of movement at distance. When closed, the bonnet is "one" with the body work, including the plastic piece above the radiator, so why not attach the diverter to the scoop, or above the radiator, then deal with engine movement through rubber gaskets to the DFIC? I know my engine damper has reduced movement considerably,but it still moves a little, especially back and forth.
But I likee...
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,926
Likes: 40
From: Greensboro, NC
Originally Posted by gandini
Geez, that's an extreme cut...
Originally Posted by gandini
You'd need some way of blending the edge back down, like on the new DF scoop to meet the Al diverter
Originally Posted by gandini
and you'll have to remove the rubber seal/gasket above the radiator in that area
Originally Posted by gandini
The problem then becomes engine movement, if the diverter is attached to the engine, due to exaggeration of movement at distance. When closed, the bonnet is "one" with the body work, including the plastic piece above the radiator, so why not attach the diverter to the scoop, or above the radiator, then deal with engine movement through rubber gaskets to the DFIC? I know my engine damper has reduced movement considerably,but it still moves a little, especially back and forth.
But I likee...
But I likee...
Originally Posted by JS
dr. phil,
If you've had the sews pull out of the scoop, talk to Peter @ M7. There was a issue concerning this and I think it has been corrected at the fabricator's.
If you've had the sews pull out of the scoop, talk to Peter @ M7. There was a issue concerning this and I think it has been corrected at the fabricator's.
Longboard
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
Go ahead...dare me
Cutting it clean might be hard. CF is a little tough to cut. Once you cut it you can hand sand the edge then get some polyester resin to finish the edge.
Lets see it man!
Longboard
No Fear Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 921
Likes: 0
From: Golden Central Coast Cali
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
After some though...I think I rather work with Joel to come up with another design than ruin this perfectly good CF...
Hey, I didn't see earlier that you painted the top of the scoop Pure silver - you really are constantly thinking and improving your ride. Someday I'd love to see your ride up close - come on out to the left coast some day!
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,926
Likes: 40
From: Greensboro, NC
Originally Posted by pberry51mini
That's a ton smarter. You could sell your CF DFIC scoop to many different people that weren't able to get one.
Hey, I didn't see earlier that you painted the top of the scoop Pure silver - you really are constantly thinking and improving your ride. Someday I'd love to see your ride up close - come on out to the left coast some day!
Hey, I didn't see earlier that you painted the top of the scoop Pure silver - you really are constantly thinking and improving your ride. Someday I'd love to see your ride up close - come on out to the left coast some day!
The top of the intake is actually not PS...it's the same satin ceramic paint that I used for the louvers...Wonder how the whole Mini would look in this satin silver?