Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Yes, Yes, Another S/C Pulley Thread.

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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
Yes, Yes, Another S/C Pulley Thread.

Ok, just a few questions that were not answered in my search.

First, if I have the alta pulley, do I have to remove the belt tentioner?

Second, if so, where do I get a tentioner tool?

Third, is there more than one style of a S/C pullies? If so, what are the +/- of each?

Fourth, I have a 2005 MCSa. I plan on doing the install myself. What should I look out for in the auto that is not expected in the manual?

Thank you for your imput.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:27 AM
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i'm actually curious to know about a BMW tensioner tool I heard about. anyone have the part number?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Arg! I posted this in the wrong forum. Can anyone click the and ask a mod to put it in the Performance Mods :: Drivetrain forum?

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Arg! I posted this in the wrong forum. Can anyone click the and ask a mod to put it in the Performance Mods :: Drivetrain forum?

Thanks.
Done
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
Thank you
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Ok, just a few questions that were not answered in my search.

First, if I have the alta pulley, do I have to remove the belt tentioner?
You don't need to remove the whole belt tensioner. Just release the tension in it. Use a small screwdriver and lock it or use the "special pin" that comes with a tensioner tool...


Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Second, if so, where do I get a tentioner tool?
Many MINI shops sells it online, but you can do the job without it too.

Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Third, is there more than one style of a S/C pullies? If so, what are the +/- of each?
There are 2-pieces and 3-pieces pulleys. Alta is a 2-pieces one and many other ones also are 2-pieces. I've had my 15% MINI-Madness one for a very long time (100 000km) and no problem at all!

Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Fourth, I have a 2005 MCSa. I plan on doing the install myself. What should I look out for in the auto that is not expected in the manual?
I can't help you with that, but I'd say that it's about the same for a MCSa...
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
Thanks for the answers! That helps a lot!

Can anyone chime in for the remaining q's?

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkMiniCooperS
Many MINI shops sells it online, but you can do the job without it too.
How would you do it without the tensioner tool?
I know you can easily make a similar tool to do the job, but I can't see anyone doing it without something to work the tensioner.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN109
How would you do it without the tensioner tool?
I know you can easily make a similar tool to do the job, but I can't see anyone doing it without something to work the tensioner.
I got mine installed at a VW speedshop, and they did the job without that tool. I only had the pulley puller tool, which was required.

It took them 1 hour to complete the job, and as I said earlier, I've done 100 000km on that pulley without any problem.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
So to be clear, I dont need the tensioner. I can use a screwdriver or something?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkMiniCooperS
I got mine installed at a VW speedshop, and they did the job without that tool. I only had the pulley puller tool, which was required.

It took them 1 hour to complete the job, and as I said earlier, I've done 100 000km on that pulley without any problem.
Did they just not take the tension off the belt? and unbolted the whole assembly? I'm just trying to understand how they would have done it.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN109
Did they just not take the tension off the belt? and unbolted the whole assembly? I'm just trying to understand how they would have done it.
Yep, exaclty what they did. They put a small screwdriver in the tensioner's lock pin. And then they got the whole thing out. But last time they changed my belt, they simply locked the tensioner with a screwdriver.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:31 PM
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
Can anyone post some pics of this being done? I just cant imagine it.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkMiniCooperS
Yep, exaclty what they did. They put a small screwdriver in the tensioner's lock pin. And then they got the whole thing out. But last time they changed my belt, they simply locked the tensioner with a screwdriver.
To get a pin or scewdriver in to lock the tensioner you need to first retract it with something.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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They used a long screwdriver to push it back. It requires some strengh but it's "do-able".
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkMiniCooperS
They used a long screwdriver to push it back. It requires some strengh but it's "do-able".
I see now.
For $60 at OutMotoring, I just bought the tool. Makes changing the belt a lot easier.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Can anyone post some pics of this being done? I just cant imagine it.
Here's a pic of the tensioner...


the tensioner tool goes in the two little holes above the idler pulley you see in the pic to take the tension off the belt so it can be removed. Once retracted, there is a hole you line up where you can stick a small screwdriver or pin in there to keep it retracted while the pulley is changed.
Make sure you draw out how the belt is routed before you take it off.

BTW, the piece in the pic that says GT Tuning is a tensioner stop that you probably don't have on your tensioner, but it's a good idea.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
Thanks for explaining. I think I get it!
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Thanks for explaining. I think I get it!
Good, you'll see what we are talking about once you get in there.
BTW, sorry about the thread hijack between me and DarkMini.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:32 PM
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Oh its np. I learned quite a bit. I plan on doing the install myself and dont want to mess up half way through. I want everything to go smoothly!
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Oh its np. I learned quite a bit. I plan on doing the install myself and dont want to mess up half way through. I want everything to go smoothly!
Have you check WebbMotorsports how-to guide?

It includes a lot of useful infos.

If I could get my hands on the CD I got from MINI-Madness, I'd post their how-to right away... But I think I forgot it in Montreal before moving...
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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Have you run any searches on this forum or on MINI2? I'm pretty sure that installing a pulley on an automatic is a b*tch . . . something to do with dropping the tranny (but I could be making this part up).

Honestly the best thing that you could do is to have it installed at an pulley or mod party by a professional who will stand behind his work. Installing your own pulley with little experience can lead to bad things . . . and who wants bad things to happen to their MINI?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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You'll have fun...

the auto moves the whole assembly closer to the belt side. I haven't done one but in talking to Randy it takes much more patience. Skinny fingers and slender hands probably help too. Don't drink too much coffee, and if you get real frustrated during the job, just walk away for a few minutes.

But do yourself a favor and get the tensioner tool. It's very easy to use, not too expensive, and won't crew something up if it slips. And you'll have no problem doing your own belt changes in the future.....

Matt
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 03:27 PM
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The suot throws a whole new dimension into the pulley install - we charge an additional $100 for it. You need to remove the entire gearbox mount instead of just the one bolt, which requires you to remove the two mounting bolts for the engine bay fuse box. You also need to pull the tire off the passenger side and remove the wheel well to get at the pax side motor mount. It needs to be removed as well because of the proximity of the motor to the unibody (it is closer than the standard) for you to get at the tensioner. You will also notice a duct underneath for the power steering fan which the standard doesn't have - that has to be pulled too.

With all of the extra fun on the auto, I would go ahead and get the tensioner tool. I normally say it isn't necessary, but with how tight the motor is on the auto, it is worth it.

Hope that helps!
Randy
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Don't drink too much coffee, and if you get real frustrated during the job, just walk away for a few minutes.
 
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