How many here have installed their own OBX header? Just purchased one and was going to have someone install it, but now I'm considering doing it myself. Read Randy's header install how-to and it doesn't seem too hard. Also, I will not be adding a cat, so I would assume that I just have to have someone weld in a straight pipe inplace of the cat.

Stories/tips/advice from those that have installed theirs would be appreciated!! Thank you!

 

i'll be looking to do this install as well, with the OBX header. i have the oneball, pulley and CAI like you too. However, i'll be using my stock cat, not just a straight pipe.

By the way, any chance you could do a couple of sound/video recordings of ur car's exhaust noise after you install the OBX?

 

It sucks and is a giant pain in the ***. Dont even think about doing it on the ground... Not all of the bolts can go back in. We had to grind the head down on some of them to make it work. I had a bigger sway bar and it was very difficult to get the header past that. Yes you will have to have a piece welded on in place of a cat. I reccomend you you put a piece of flex tubing in there or make yourself a 1 piece exhaust system otherwise you will always have an exhaust leak.

 

Yeah, i'll definitely getcha some recordings when its all done.

 

awesome! thanks....

 

any chance you could elaborate on this? Are you suggesting welding a flex pipe onto the headers, and then welding a cat to that? Did you have to grind the head or the headers?

 

I have a Megan, but some of these things are relevant. He means grinding the bolt heads to get them to fit next to the primaries. It's due to the angles the primaries make from the header flange.
I also think he means you need some flex in the header system. I don't think the OBX comes with a welded in flex joint (like most other headers.) If this is the case, then you need some flex in the system or you will break flange bolts, they will come loose and cause leaks. I have seen the flex joint in my header move under the torque of the motor--not a pretty sight for those of you who think exhaust systems don't need flexible joints.

good luck,

 

oh the bolt heads....my bad.

 

OEM bolt size is M8X30.
The solution;
Socket screws, also known as Allen head are fastened with a 6mm hex Allen wrench for 8mm screws.
Socket screws 8mm x 30mm pitch 1.25
Listed here;
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.as...1&cm=19&cd=1318
Part #,
6436 30mm $0.79
Lock washers 8mm listed here;
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=16&cs=64&cm=19
Part #

From the OBX-Racing Header Dyno Results!, page 17, post 416.

 

While I am pretty mechanical, I opted to have it installed only because a lift really makes things easier. So I was second chair while a shop installed my OBX exhaust.

Comments -

1) at first it seemed that the stock header could not come out - tight fit. And it looks even tighter getting the obx header in! But after you push things aside and find that 1 perfect angle - the sucker pops in.

2) For me all the bolts except one lined up to the manifold. Some people have solved this problem by drill out more the OBX wholes, some have used studs, some have bought new bolts. In my case, we simply shaved off a bit of the stock bolt head that had flange/flair at the base of the bolt head. We took off 1/32nd or perhaps a 1/16th.

3) MAKE SURE you copper or double nut the bolts that connect to the CAT (bolts that hold the springs) or you will end up back under your car!!!

4) Unless your building a race car, I would encourage you to use a CAT.

good luck

 

Its not TOO hard on your back but it is definitely easier if you can get it up in the air. When me and a friend were installing a heat shield and an oil pressure sensor last week, it took us about 15 minutes to get the header off and 15 minutes to get it back on. All you really have to do to get it out of the bottom is to remove one piece of the heat shielding (the piece on the 02 sensor side). After that the header should slide right out of the bottom.

 

I found removing the smaller heat shield near the #2 o2 sensor was not enough for my header install. After I removed the large shield that covers the steering box and drive shafts (you see this at the back of the engine bay below the radiator water reservoir) I had lots of room to manouver that sucker. I also found that removing the coil made the installation much easier.

cheers,

 

A little wigglin is all it needs... granted I did it while standing under the car on a lift and it might be a little more difficult to wiggle while on your back with 1 foot of room to work with.

 

I am bringing my OBX header to a local car shop tomorrow. I am going to help them install it because they have never worked on a new MINI before. We hope to spend 1 hour on removing the old header and cutting the cat off it and welding it onto the new OBX. We hope everything lines up right and can get it all done and sealed off in less than 2 hours. Any last minute advice from those of you that already have the OBX on?