I have decided to get a light weight 0% crank pulley but don't know who's. The choices are Alta, Webb and Unorthodox. The Unorthodox is the most expensive and heaviest (by a little) of the ones I'm considering and it's a 2 piece. GTT says the 2 piece design is better because the center is steel and you will have no metal to metal incompatibility. The Webb, is the lighest, and a 3 spoke, which seems a little scary to me, unlike Alta's 6 spoke.

Webb's site say's 6.5 HP can be freed up on my 03 and Way Motor Works said you can feel it spining up faster coming off turns in an autocross but couldn't put a number on it.

Which one should I get?

 

Lightest.
I doubt the 3 spoke design makes any difference in strength.
Torsional strength and not radial load strength would be more important in this instance. Beam strength and fillet design make a big difference.

Edit:
Compatible metals would be very important too.

 

I have the cheapest. I have an Alta with about 300 miles on it available for purchase for $100 plus shipping. Contact me if interested and can send pics.

Regards, Andy

 

Why did you take it off the car?

 

In his for sale thread he swapped out for a 2% because he like the efect so much


GoWest the car will rev much quick without the rotating mass. Similar to when you put on lighter weight wheels.

 

I payed $29 on e-bay and it works great! Havn't had a problem at all. Although it doesn't have a cool name stamped on it. I have a dyno sheet in my gallery with the 0% -- Johan
Edit: (it's NOT underdrive OR overdrive but a 0% meaning the same size as stock)

 

Some of the Crank Pulleys on ebay are underdrive pulleys and
turn accessories such as the alternator slower but an underdrive
crank pulley also turns the supercharger slower and decreases power.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-02...spagenameZWDVW


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNORT...spagenameZWD1V

 

"GTT says the 2 piece design is better because the center is steel and you will have no metal to metal incompatibility." Hum, the crank is steel, the center is steel & the pulley is aluminum....

The under drive will work well for a non SC motor, but for SC cars, you would want to change , alternator, air conditioner pulley's for performance gains. There would be little or negative gain with Teds posted links. Thanks Ted..

 

What's important is the ability to get the pulley off the crank with out damage, not the pulley off the center.

 

So you're saying you'd sacrafice the pulley before the crank? Madness!

dan

 

"What's important is the ability to get the pulley off the crank with out damage, not the pulley off the center."
If you can remove them both at the same time, no problem. The UR pulley looks like it might have a threaded center in the hub for removal, if so, both pieces could be removed at once. The problem of unlike metals still exists with the hub & the pulley. Is it worth almost another $100 more than an Alta, M7, Helix, etc, over drive or a lightweight 0 pulley? I have not had problems removing any aluminum interference or bolted pulleys on steel shafts...Yet.

 

That's the kind of info I'm looking for, maybe it's just sales hype or a long term problem, like 5 years and 75,000 miles later. I figure if there's a vibration problem like a few have reported, it will show up quickly and If there is no vibration problem, it will be on the car as long as I have it.

 

The idea of the Steel center is not really pulling it off.. the idea is the difference in expansion rates. If i remember i don't think the pulley is Keyed. "If" so its just a press on fit. which means its possible Do to the different rates of expansion an alumin Hub could slip during from time to time. By having a steel hub the expansion rates remain the same making it less likely to loosing up and slip.

 

Steel to steel is kind of an exact science. Cast iron to steel or steel to steel of different alloys, over time, can weld themselves with oxidation ( we are talking long time ). In any case you need a puller to remove the pulley, sometimes with heat & a puller.
If there were a selection of pulleys for the hub, from 0 - under 2% - over 2%, much like the SC pulleys, having a steel hub is a good idea, even given some potential difficulty removing the pulley or the hub ( notice I diden't say problems ). The marketing part, the "like metals stuff", is something they should not use IMHO. Put the hub on, then the pulley & it's still steel to aluminum, only with more hardware....