I have some questions about the supercharger pulley. I know this is pretty often discussed and I've read a couple of threads.

I've always wanted to do this, but install was the problem, I read Randy's how-to and to be honest it doesn't look that bad. I have a friend that's a mechanic at a Mitsubishi dealership so we can use their garage and he knows cars so. I don't think it'd be a problem if you just take your time, or am I wrong? Please share how you did it, and thinks to think about, if you have pictures then post them!

I've always thought of the 15% but just to ask, what's the difference between the 15%, 17% and 19%? I mean in power, if the 15% is say 10hp is the 17% 15hp? I guess you know what I mean. I want a car that's reliable! I'd rather have a more reliable car then 20 extra horsepower. What brand pulley should I go with? Are they all the same? I'd rather get the tool and the pulley from the same place.

My car has about 33k miles on it, should I change the belt as well? Or do they do that on Inspection I or II? Engine was replaced about 15k miles ago.

What tool do I need? What tool is the best? What tool is the easiest? I read something about a shaft that can be bent? What are the things you have to be really careful about when raising the engine? Pics? I'd really be thankful if you could point some of these things out and anything I've forgot!

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Mario

 

I'm going to have Chad (Detroit Tuned ) install mine someday, but it's a pretty straighforward job so I might install it myself if I had the tools (and time!) My only reservation would be that I'd like to make absolutely sure that it goes on perfectly... it's right in the center of all the action, you know

Don't forget that M7 has a 16% version as well... this seems like a good compromise to me. Now all I need is the $$.

 

i know it's off your topic but...
what happened with the engine?

 

I didn't remove half the stuff in Randy's how-to, and had no problems.
This is what I used...

and belt tensioner tool...


both from OutMotoring.
Just take your time, and you'll be fine.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=43283

I checked outmotoring and I'm thinking of buying from there. Alta 15% and deluxe tool.

Can you give me some more details on your install? Sure you can read the how-to but when you do it yourself you find small things that arn't in the how-to, like do's and don'ts?

I read Randy doesn't like the Deluxe tool, why? Anyone else share that or is it just him? Do I really need the tensioner tool? I read that you can just put something small in the holes?

What about the Alta 15%, is it good? I read it centers automatically or something like that?

I know there are more people with pulleys, help me out here.

Cheers,
Mario

 

I have heard that the deluxe tool isn't as durable as some other pullers for repeated use, it worked just fine for me, and it saves you from having to remove the tensioner. You will definitely need the tensioner tool to take the belt off. Once you have the tensioner retracted, use a small pin or scewdriver to keep it in place and then you can remove the belt and the tool.
Just about every reduction pulley you can buy is self-centering, M7, Alta, Helix, etc.
The stock pulley is pressed on to an exact location on the SC shaft, which lines it up with the other pulleys. The aftermarket pulleys are two piece and have been designed to self center when the bolts are tightened, so there is no misalignment of the pulleys.

 

I had a 15%'er installed yesterday (at a pulley party) for $150 labor. It took maybe 40 minutes. I thought about doing it myself, read all the DIY stuff front and back, but the cost of the two tools (or even just the puller tool) didn't make sense against $150 total labor. Plus it was fun being at a pulley party.

BTW he used the puller shown above and it had seen alot of duty. The center stud which contacts the SC shaft was starting to wear out.
Also, he did not remove any of the driver's side engine bits mentioned in Randy's how-to (airbox, engine mount)

 

I'm in Sweden, if there were pulley parties here, especially for 150$ in labor I'd definiely go that route!

How big of a difference did you feel with the pulley?

About the tool, I'll probably use it once and sell it, I think I will buy it with another MINI-owner over here so he'd use it as well. I don't know?

 

It is the biggest HP gain for the buck and you will feel the difference, no doubt about it.

 

The difference for me is...
More low end torque
More highway passing power
More supercharger whine
No more obsessing about getting a pulley

 

Or you could pay a visit to PM Racing in Nynashamn: they are a world-class tuning shop who also are an authorized Helix and GIAC dealer. Try them here: [FONT=Arial]www.pm-racing.se[/FONT]. Their principal is Mattias Stertman.

 

Too cool. Helix is taking over the globe!

Way to go Eric.

Scott
90SM

 

A guy I know is getting his MINI done there and I believe that's the first one they are working on(?) But it's not about that, it's about money, labour isn't cheap in Sweden. :(

I'm thinking of putting in my order at outmotoring today or tomorrow, then I'll probably have the things by next week.

 

How hard was it to turn the screw to get the pulley off?

 

If you are using the tool above, it's a piece of cake...1 large adjustable & an opened end wrench for the puller...real easy. Be sure to use white grease on the end of the puller bolt, where the press is, it will work better & last longer.

 

I am having a hard time getting the pulley off. Any suggestions?

 

You may need to use a little heat

 

I used a little WD40 and let it set for a few minutes and it came right off.

The M7 pulley is awesome compared to stock.

 

Yes, the M7 is a good 1, have 1 on mine.

 

OK but if you are replacing the pulley, I'm thinking baout the M7 16%, what else should be done while you are in there? Replace the belt? Do you do a crank pulley reduction? What is that anyway? How about the Altantor? Need to learn the pros and cons of these items. TIA Michael

 

Belt replalcement decision is a function of how long the current belt was on the car. 60K miles, it would be a good idea to replace the belt. 10K miles, probably no need to replace the belt unless there was wear. If there was wear on the belt, I would want to find out what was causing the wear and fix it as well.

Crank pulley reduction opens up a can of worms. If you replace the s/c pulley with a reduction pulley and then also replace the crank pulley with a reduction pulley, you have magnified the amount of total s/c reduction. Also (with a crank pulley reduction), you are now spinning other things faster than they may need to be spun (water pump could be susceptible to cavitation; allternator may burn out).... If it were me, I would just go with a s/c reduction pulley.

 

But Caminifan, aren't all these pulley's including the M7 rduction pulleys? So let's just say you use the M7 16% pulley and their 2% crank pulley, what horsepower gains are there then? I mean that's what we are going for here right? Is this better or worse or equal to going with a 19% pulley. Appreciate your inpiut, BTW my car will have 30K on on it when I do this so I will replace the belt. TIA Michael

 

With a 16% s/c reduction pulley and a 2% crank reduction pulley, you are in the 18% total reduction territory. Another thing to consider is your driving style - if you like to wind the engine out, you will be running the risk of exceeding the s/c maximum efficiency limit. 17%+ pulleys are generally used for non-track applications where the owner wants more low end grunt than is available with a 15% reduction pulley.

 

So the two pulleys added together equal the reduction %. Do you know the hp gains of going from a 15% to a 17% to a 19%? Is there an advantage of using a 17% pulley verses a s/c15% pulley + a 2% crank pulley?
Lastly please forgive the sacriledge of this but I find myself shifting around 5000 RPMS and yes my car a daily driver, and I'd like more oomph at the bottom. Here is the NYC area the action is upto the speed limit, we just can't go that much faster, for legal and safety reasons... Michael

 

HP gains are somewhat variable (based on what all is on the engine before the s/c reduction pulley is added). For one perspective, try the Webb Motorsports website.