Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Some questions about Supercharger pulley

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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #26  
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billie_morini
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fjo asked, "How big of a difference did you feel with the pulley?"

I had Randy Webb install a 15% supercharger pulley on my new 2006 MCS at a recent San Francisco Bay Area pulley party. The engine was not even broken it. The difference? It is like a brand new auto. It was fun to drive beforehand, but now it is really fun. I drive it just for the fun of it now. It accelerates much faster with the smaller pulley. It also doesn't lug around when the air conditioner is on. This modification is absoluetley worth it. By the way, I've had a JCW air box on right from the beginning. If you want to get more out of the pulley mod, you should have an air box that flows more than stock.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 12:13 AM
  #27  
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billie_morini
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fjo,
I just came across the photos of your gorgeous black Mini. It is an imperative. You must install a 15% pulley to make that little black beauty really go!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:30 AM
  #28  
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fj0
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From: Sweden
Thanks guys!

I got the pulley, deluxe tool, belt tensioner and belt today! I'm going to install it tomorrow with some friends, please give me some last tips on what to do and NOT to do, I'd really appreciate some pointers from folks that have done this! How does the pulley tool work? I dont get it to be honest. Maybe I need to see the pulley infront of me first. How do I install the new pulley? It's in 2 parts, do I install one part at a time or what?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Mario
 
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #29  
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fj0
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I thought alot of people in here had done this? Doesn't anyone have tips?...
 
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 11:23 PM
  #30  
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Dr Obnxs
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From: Woodside, CA
The job seems worse than it is...

Do the stuff to allow jacking the motor (you won't always need to do this to change belts, but the first couple of times when you're learning the technique, it helps....) The exact details of removing the pulley depend on your particular pulley tool... The new pully has the inner part that goes on first, and then the larger part goes on next, and the screws that hold the two parts together also get the inner tapered part to hold the shaft. Pop the new belt in, release the tensioner, lower the motor, redo the motor mount bolts. Fire it up and drive away!

The best suggestion is to do the work when you can phone your supplier for help if you get stuck....

When you're all done, you'll be wondering why you worried so much....

But if you have an auto, there's less clearence, and it will be more frustrating.

Matt
 
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 11:54 PM
  #31  
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fj0
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Do the stuff to allow jacking the motor (you won't always need to do this to change belts, but the first couple of times when you're learning the technique, it helps....) The exact details of removing the pulley depend on your particular pulley tool... The new pully has the inner part that goes on first, and then the larger part goes on next, and the screws that hold the two parts together also get the inner tapered part to hold the shaft. Pop the new belt in, release the tensioner, lower the motor, redo the motor mount bolts. Fire it up and drive away!

The best suggestion is to do the work when you can phone your supplier for help if you get stuck....

When you're all done, you'll be wondering why you worried so much....

But if you have an auto, there's less clearence, and it will be more frustrating.

Matt
Thank you for the help Matt!

I have a manual '03. I have a deluxe outmotoring tool and an alta 15%, I will change the belt as well. The pulley came in one part, should I have it in two parts when I install it? I guess it will be obvious when I see it infront of me. You're right I'm probably more worried than I should be.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 03:24 AM
  #32  
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stevecars60
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From: Northampton MA
1st, do you have the tensioner tool? It makes life easier if the tension is taken off the belt before you de-tach the mounts. The rest is pretty straight forward.
You only need to jack the engine so the the pulley tool clears the chassis.
Slide the tool on the stock pulley ( yes, it needs to be apart ). Use white grease or what ever you have on the nose of the press ( the end of the bolt ). Screw the bolt in untill it's finger tight. A large adjustable & a box end will do the rest of the job. If the pulley is stuck, spray a little WD40 on it.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=8466 be sure to print a copy of this before you start.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 04:00 AM
  #33  
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fj0
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Originally Posted by stevecars60
1st, do you have the tensioner tool? It makes life easier if the tension is taken off the belt before you de-tach the mounts. The rest is pretty straight forward.
You only need to jack the engine so the the pulley tool clears the chassis.
Slide the tool on the stock pulley ( yes, it needs to be apart ). Use white grease or what ever you have on the nose of the press ( the end of the bolt ). Screw the bolt in untill it's finger tight. A large adjustable & a box end will do the rest of the job. If the pulley is stuck, spray a little WD40 on it.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=8466 be sure to print a copy of this before you start.
I have the tensioner tool!

I checked my pulley tool yesterday and it had some white grease on it, I didn't get any other with it, just what was on it?

I did print that DIY.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 05:18 AM
  #34  
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stevecars60
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From: Northampton MA
Originally Posted by fj0
I have the tensioner tool!

I checked my pulley tool yesterday and it had some white grease on it, I didn't get any other with it, just what was on it?

I did print that DIY.
Showtime
 
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