Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Gtt Intercooler

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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:03 AM
  #76  
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Heres a summary update because I still have work to do on the IC.

1) Beautiful and enormous.
2) Instructions - simple, straight foward and clear.
3) Had to remove more material from the engine than indicated.
4) Included w/ the IC was the "fix kit" which is designed to eliminate the rubber boots from sliding. It did not work and had the rubber boot slide off in the first 15 mins. of testing.

Design comments - I have not read where others have had this problem with alternative IC units. Other brands like GRS and Forge bolt the IC to the engine, GTT does not but wants the IC to float. Secondly all othe brands use a "funnell" design for the end tanks, GTT goes a different route claiming better air flow. While this better airflow may or may not be true what is certain is that it allows the rubber connectors to slide. With the funnell concept the rubber connectors cannot slide because the diameter increases.
A straight forward solution would be that GTT makes the unit about 1/2 wider - actually making the IC unit a tad bigger leaving the end tanks as is.

Clearly my unit is not going to grow so I am testing some solutions - here is one possibility - notice the brackets on the rubber connectors.

 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 07:10 AM
  #77  
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Looks good Bahamabart. Only thing i would suggest from your solution is that the one on the right side (smaller horn) isn't needed and would fit it also on the bottom of the left side (bigger horn). Since whats needed it to keep that Bellow/Boot from compressing. Plus it keeps the flow path equal going through the Boot. On my quick fix which was using a Hose clamp to run inbetween the stock clamps on the Left side only was to do just that

As for making it a half inch larger. If you go to the Silicon boots later like I did. your going to be glad he didn't. It was a real PITA to get that second boot on. Had to use and old window installer trick to force the boot to pop over and go on. Which means theres no chance of it sliding off even if i didnt run any clamps and im going to feel sorry for the mechanic if he ever needs to remove it. (like me when i have to change sparkplugs.) and puts it back on. When that time comes I may try putting the stock boot on the right side only to make it easier.

Another question i have is did you have to Mod the Black diverter and if so could you take a shot of what you had to do. On mine since i couldn't even close the Hood / Bonnet with it in there. It was easier for me to just remove it. Line the Hood with Dynamat (still have over 4 yards of the stuff lying around) and run the Foam seal. I'm sure others who have to install it later would like to see that.

Best regards
Mugami

PS. clear your PM box. Damn your a popular person to PM
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 08:55 AM
  #78  
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Above - you can see that i reused the foam strip to seal up the back of the IC. Also notive that the back tabs have been shaved.



above - you can see the tabs being shaved - the side pieces must be shaved off ALL THE WAY to the end of the tab.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 01:11 PM
  #79  
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Finally got 4 braces / brackets on the IC clamps plus I ground off a bit more as Roland had instructed. I think the first time I didn't take off enough. The good news is this sucker is no longer moving and I'm using the stock rubber. I also replaced the bolts with hex heads making it easier to tighten because I was stripping the stock ones.

So after a lot of fiddling - its in and working properly.

This IC is not for the enthusiast that wants to unbolt the old IC and just bolt in a new IC. It requires some grinding of the engine and some shaving plastic off the hood and requires some kind aid to address the stock rubber connectors. If you like to customize things to make them your own, this one is for you.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:00 PM
  #80  
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you ask about in IC boot connector im using i got them from here

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm

please note in the decription they talk about the stock boots working themselves loose using the Ultrik water to air incooler .. which also using a floating design just like GTT's intercooler
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:03 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Mugami
you ask about in IC boot connector im using i got them from here

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm
Much appreciated - lets see if my solution holds up OTHERWISE I will be ordering shortly. Hope the pics on th ehood scoop help.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:27 PM
  #82  
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I saw you too got a G-Tech...

now you can go do before and after tests as well!

Let us know if you do that with the IC, and if you do, what the results are!

Matt
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:02 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by MSFITOY
Really? Visually, it looks identical. Do you have measurements? I'll measure mine when I get home. Height x width x depth
Oh' no lets don't start "Mine's bigger then Yours" Lets just say the water's cold & it's deep too.........
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:07 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
now you can go do before and after tests as well!

Let us know if you do that with the IC, and if you do, what the results are!

Matt
The Gtech is a must have for any gadget freak. I'm just dialing it in - I set the vehicle wieght to 3050 which is what you used. I pulled 194.6HP and 183.1TQ. I can't test the IC for I installed it and the denso plugs first.
 
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