I would like to add that, the Rspeed Cooper exhaust is the most affordable complete catback available.
Also our forth coming intake kit will also be extremely affordable.

Joseph

 

That was certainly a worry I had when considering the Remus until I talked to several people.

While this is true - the work needed to reinstall your original exhaust would be minimal. Both my dealer and the muffler shop that installed it (I use the term install loosely) mentioned that it's a very simple procedure to get the OEM back on and I shouldn't let that sway my desicion.

So while I can't say the Remus is the best (since I haven't owned others) I can say that installation/reinstallation shouldn't really be a concern. The sound is fantastic and the look is great.

Here's my original review from last year: bridger.us/mini/exhaust/

(I'm a Remus owner - I don't work for the company in any way.)

>>>>Andy,
>>>>
>>>>Yes, the Nology wires are red, but with the Cooper, the Magnacors make a tiny bit more power, and they cost less. The 8.5 Magnecors are red as well. The Nology wires make more power than the Magnacors on the S though - weird.>>
>>
>>Randy - plug wires do not make HP.
>>
>>>>The Remus is a very nice exhaust, and the price can't be beat. The fit is very good, and the sound is a mellow but definitely more aggressive sound when compared to the stock system. >>
>>
>>The Remus is a nice exhaust, but you need to cut your old exhaust about mid-way with a hack saw which burns your bridges as you will find it most difficult going back to stock should you ever need to return your Mini back to stock. Just thought people should know that up front. Our exhaust, for example, does not require any cutting and super easy install.
>>
>>-Peter/Rspeed

 

Gabe, you have to go with what make you have a good feeling about and Remus is a very cool exhuast.

I too have no problem with cuting up and exhuast but a few others may.

But let me tell you what happend to, Ethan,freind of mine with a Jetta. As with most VWs, you need to either cut the one piece factory exhuast out or drop the rear suspension which requires you to undo the brake lines to change exhuast systems.
Ethan chose to cut it off.
Years latter, when he returned his wife's Jetta after the lease was up. the inspection turned up that the exhaust had been cut and rewelded or in their words damaged for goods.
So it came back to haunt him financially. $$$$$$
Luckly for Ethan happens to be our computer tech so it only cost him a new factory unit and a six pack for me.

Happly, used OEM Mini exhausts will most likly be plentiful in the market place of this board in no time at all.

And it is not 4 hour job like the Jetta.

Joseph

 

Unfortunately, certain things CANNOT be tested or compared on any dyno. One of those things: plug wires. 1 or 2 HP can be warped easily by 100 different things that can change between dyno runs. Air density, air temp, tire pressure, ECU readiness status, etc. Wires are wires. If this were not the case why would manufacturers not use thick red wires for more power? Seriously? The Cooper S could claim a rounded 165 HP if thick red wires actually gave 2 HP!

As far as other items that may give measurable gains like exhausts and intake - you'll want to consider weather you'll be happy in the long run with your purchase. Will this exhaust be too loud? Can I go back to OEM? Should I spend $200 for an intake or will a $100 one do about the same? What's the quality like? Where and how is it build? This are things you can consider to make your decision. And remember- only Consumer Reports can give you unbiased recommendations...

 

>>Gabe, you have to go with what make you have a good feeling about and Remus is a very cool exhuast.
>>
>>I too have no problem with cuting up and exhuast but a few others may.
>>
>>But let me tell you what happend to, Ethan,freind of mine with a Jetta. As with most VWs, you need to either cut the one piece factory exhuast out or drop the rear suspension which requires you to undo the brake lines to change exhuast systems.
>>Ethan chose to cut it off.
>>Years latter, when he returned his wife's Jetta after the lease was up. the inspection turned up that the exhaust had been cut and rewelded or in their words damaged for goods.
>>So it came back to haunt him financially. $$$$$$
>>Luckly for Ethan happens to be our computer tech so it only cost him a new factory unit and a six pack for me.
>>
>>Happly, used OEM Mini exhausts will most likly be plentiful in the market place of this board in no time at all.
>>
>>And it is not 4 hour job like the Jetta.
>>
>>Joseph

Very good point. There's certainly no one right answer in terms of an aftermarket exhaust.

 

>>The Remus is a nice exhaust, but you need to cut your old exhaust about mid-way with a hack saw which burns your bridges as you will find it most difficult going back to stock should you ever need to return your Mini back to stock. Just thought people should know that up front. Our exhaust, for example, does not require any cutting and super easy install.
>>
>>-Peter/Rspeed

Thanks for the warning Peter. From Gabes review I understood the Remus to be a bolt-on. That is an important issue to me. My car is not due until April, so I am in great hurry to decide. I do like the rspeed exhaust very much, and the ease of installation/un-instalation of the rspeed is a plus.

Andy

 

>>I would like to add that, the Rspeed Cooper exhaust is the most affordable complete catback available.
>>Also our forth coming intake kit will also be extremely affordable.
>>
>>Joseph

Hi Joseph, I'm interested. What can you tell me about your intake?

Andy

 

asodestrom,

Well there is nothing special about the intake other than it will be low priced!!!!!!!!!
We want it to look as factory as possible everything is black from the polythlene? Forgot how to spell it so call it crosslink plastic) Roto Molded pipe down to the filter.
Since colors are so popular, black connectors, filters, breather hoses are not as plentiful.
So we are just waiting for a few components to arrive.

We will need one or 2 Beta testers so let us know if you would like to participate?

 

>>asodestrom,
>>
>>Well there is nothing special about the intake other than it will be low priced!!!!!!!!!
>> We want it to look as factory as possible everything is black from the polythlene? Forgot how to spell it so call it crosslink plastic) Roto Molded pipe down to the filter.
>>Since colors are so popular, black connectors, filters, breather hoses are not as plentiful.
>>So we are just waiting for a few components to arrive.
>>
>>We will need one or 2 Beta testers so let us know if you would like to participate?

I would love to participate in a beta test as soon as my "beta tester" arrives

 

>>asodestrom,
>>
>>Well there is nothing special about the intake other than it will be low priced!!!!!!!!!
>> We want it to look as factory as possible everything is black from the polythlene? Forgot how to spell it so call it crosslink plastic) Roto Molded pipe down to the filter.
>>Since colors are so popular, black connectors, filters, breather hoses are not as plentiful.
>>So we are just waiting for a few components to arrive.
>>
>>We will need one or 2 Beta testers so let us know if you would like to participate?
I would like to participate. Please PM me when you have them available. Thanks.

 

>>>>asodestrom,
>>>>
>>>>Well there is nothing special about the intake other than it will be low priced!!!!!!!!!
>>>> We want it to look as factory as possible everything is black from the polythlene? Forgot how to spell it so call it crosslink plastic) Roto Molded pipe down to the filter.
>>>>Since colors are so popular, black connectors, filters, breather hoses are not as plentiful.
>>>>So we are just waiting for a few components to arrive.
>>>>
>>>>We will need one or 2 Beta testers so let us know if you would like to participate?
>>I would like to participate. Please PM me when you have them available. Thanks.
>>
>>


Shouldn't be too much longer - maybe in the next week or so. The intake is very nice looking and a nice filter that I think you all will be impressed with.

-Peter/Rspeed Mini

 

sign me up too!
i'd love to check it out!

 

>>>>Andy,
>>>>
>>>>Yes, the Nology wires are red, but with the Cooper, the Magnacors make a tiny bit more power, and they cost less. The 8.5 Magnecors are red as well. The Nology wires make more power than the Magnacors on the S though - weird.>>
>>
>>Randy - plug wires do not make HP.
>>
>>>>The Remus is a very nice exhaust, and the price can't be beat. The fit is very good, and the sound is a mellow but definitely more aggressive sound when compared to the stock system. >>
>>
>>The Remus is a nice exhaust, but you need to cut your old exhaust about mid-way with a hack saw which burns your bridges as you will find it most difficult going back to stock should you ever need to return your Mini back to stock. Just thought people should know that up front. Our exhaust, for example, does not require any cutting and super easy install.
>>
>>-Peter/Rspeed

Peter and Chris,

Plug wires don't make horsepower...

Grasssroots Motorsports Magazine is about as objective as you can get. They saw the same thing I did - the plug wires do make better numbers, if only slightly. I have driven both the Magnacors and the Nology wires, and I can say that on the S, the Nology wires make a seat of the pants difference in throttle response and power delivery. For the Cooper, GRM found that the Magnacors make a slightly better difference than the Nology wires.

I'd be glad to post the numbers here from GRM if you want them. I think they would be more believable than mine, since they are totally objective. I sell the wires (both brands) because they make a small difference and are better quality than the factory wires. I by no means am trying to push people to get them for monster performance gains.

The Helix Cooper system ($550) has made the best power numbers, is all stainless steel, is a true cat-back system, and the fit and finish is excellent:



The tip is subtle but noticeable, and the sound is throatier but mellow.



The Magnaflow ($550) is a little louder than the other systems, but makes great power, and if you want a "tuner" tip, the Magnaflow won't be mistaken for stock:



The Borla ($550) has a very nice sound, good power improvement, and looks great:



The Rogue ($575) is one of the first systems that was avilable. The tip looks good, the sound is noticeable, and it makes good power:



The RSpeed system ($495) is another all stainless, full cat-back system. The tip design is the most subtle of the bunch - it scould pass for a factory tip. It's very well finished (the tip even says MINI on it), sounds great and makes a seat of the pants power difference (I haven't had this one on the dyno):



I hope that helps. Let me know if there are any other questions.

Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
720-841-1002

_________________

Click It!

 

Anyone have sound and/or movie clips available for the Cooper Borla exhaust? That's the only one that I haven't heard yet.

Thanks, Chris, for the Helix movie clip!

_________________
2003 Red/White Cooper - Brookline, MA

 

Randy,

I'm really impressed with the fit/finish and overall style of the RSpeed exhaust - not to mention price. Their write-up also makes it sound like the exhaust system that is "just right" for me.

I'm curious if you expect to get an RSpeed exhaust on a MC to do any testing? Reading some of your comments about the other systems makes me wonder if I would be any happier with the Helix. I don't want to discount RSpeed's documentation or write-ups, but a second, less biased opinion would be hugely desirable!

I would also love an opportunity to see/hear/drive these systems back-to-back for myself, but I don't think you can really help with that one since I'm in PA!

 

>>Randy,
>>
>>I'm really impressed with the fit/finish and overall style of the RSpeed exhaust - not to mention price. Their write-up also makes it sound like the exhaust system that is "just right" for me.
>>
>>I'm curious if you expect to get an RSpeed exhaust on a MC to do any testing? Reading some of your comments about the other systems makes me wonder if I would be any happier with the Helix. I don't want to discount RSpeed's documentation or write-ups, but a second, less biased opinion would be hugely desirable!
>>
>>I would also love an opportunity to see/hear/drive these systems back-to-back for myself, but I don't think you can really help with that one since I'm in PA!

I like the RSpeed system. It's on a customer car here, but I haven't aproached him about using his car for testing. I'll see what I can do. Just driving the car, the sound is mellow, the tip is mellow, and the power gains are noticeable, but as I said earlier, for the Cooper it's tough to get big increases. The power is compareable to the Borla system. The Rogue makes a little more power seat of the pants, but it's a bit louder as well.

Feel free to give me a call to discuss what's out there.

Randy
720-841-1002

 

so randy.....
which is louder the helix or the rogue?
thanks!

 

If there's anyone in the NJ/NY/PA area that wants to hear the Rogue on my MC...I'd be glad to demonstrate! any excuse to motor and chat with fellow MINI owners or owners to be...

 

The Helix and the Rogue are similar - if anything I think the Rogue may be a tad louder.

Randy

 

I feel as if I should step in here and in no way am I here to discredit anyone or take away from the original thread topic. I will post my my opinion below and move on to other things - so here is my .02 on this discussion:

Randy Said:
"Grasssroots Motorsports Magazine is about as objective as you can get. They saw the same thing I did - the plug wires do make better numbers, if only slightly. I have driven both the Magnacors and the Nology wires, and I can say that on the S, the Nology wires make a seat of the pants difference in throttle response and power delivery."


1) Again - I have never seen plug wires make any king of *noiticable* horse power - I am fine also with looking into the GRM article whihc you mentioned. Their best dyno posted 108.2HP and 102.2 lb.ft of troque (on the Cooper mind you).

Now with the Nology wires, they posted 108.9Hp and 101.2 ft.lb of torque in GRM Vol20/No1.

If you want to get technical and say yes, based on GRM you will get a .7 HP difference for $189.95 then fine - the Nology wires will give you a little over 1/2 HP.

But again, I will say that wires are not a HP answer and for the most part they do not make any kind of noticible HP gains - I would recommend to a customer that if they wanted to find a better way for a cleaner spark - a better way to smooth out their idle - then yes, plugs are the way to go - but not for HP gains. We can argue all day over .7 HP from a magazine, but I believe there is a more important reason for buying plug wires as stated above. I also want to add that Chris at Helix added " The short answer on this is that spark plug wires do not make power."

Randy Said:
"For the Cooper, GRM found that the Magnacors make a slightly better difference than the Nology wires."

Not so - they clearly state (and I am taking this down word for word here): "The dyno numbers indicate that these wires were also a close match to the originals, with 107.8 horsepower and 102.8 lb.ft of torque."

Slightly better difference? Looks like their numbers went down (page 124) - or at least what I am seeing in print.

2. My final point has to do with the concept of "dyno = happiness". First, in no way am I here to post my personal dyno runs with various other Mini Cooper performance products that I sell because I honestly believe (for 8 years now) that dyno data is rarely consistant from dyno to dyno - especially based on conditions and the way the dyno data can be altered. When we post a dyno sheet for any product we sell, I am basically providing our customers with a "painting", if you will, of how the torque curve is in relation to the HP curve. Rarely do I have a customer these days come into our facility and say "I want the most HP for my Mini, so hook me up." I think most Mini customers who are looking for more performance in their Mini are more educated than that - it is about torque, and sound, and fit, and finish and quality of every performance product that we sell at RSpeed.

To add to this growing trend, Hector, our Master Tech at the facility stated a couple weeks back based on the original question of this thread "As far as other items that may give measurable gains like exhausts and intake - you'll want to consider weather you'll be happy in the long run with your purchase. Will this exhaust be too loud? Can I go back to OEM? Should I spend $200 for an intake or will a $100 one do about the same? What's the quality like? Where and how is it build? This are things you can consider to make your decision. And remember- only Consumer Reports can give you unbiased recommendations."

Let's look at plug wires again with a dyno run in mind - we stated earlier that certain things CANNOT be tested or compared on any dyno. One of those things: plug wires. 1 or 2 HP can be warped easily by 100 different things that can change between dyno runs. Air density, air temp, tire pressure, ECU readiness status, etc. Wires are wires. If this were not the case why would manufacturers not use thick red wires for more power? Seriously? The Cooper S could claim a rounded 165 HP if thick red wires actually gave 2 HP!

I also want to give MCO members out there a correct way (the way we *feel* is the correct way) to obtain truely accurate dyno data - with the understanding that other factors like air temp, air density, etc all play into effect with an "objective" dyno run. Next time you look into dyno numbers from someone, keep in mind the factors and conditions I mentioned above, pick the performance item that will make *you* happy and see if the objective dyno runs you are reading into actually conduct dyno runs as listed below - as written by renound BMW Tech Jim Conforti:

1) Load car on dyno at full operating temp. (i.e. run the test vehicle for about 10 mins)

1a) On OBD-II cars ***disconnect all 4 sensors and clear adaption.***

2) Start car and run it for at LEAST 3 mins to get it into RUNNING conditions and not "Start", "ColdStart", or "After Start Enrichment" conditions. If you just start it and run it you can get all SORTS of wild numbers depending upon how many seconds between start and run.. until the NS timer runs out)

[Thats NS = NachStart = After Start]

3) Make at least THREE closely (I'll skip the statistics) comparable (called *significant*) runs pre-mod.

4) If you don't get 3 tight runs.. let the car run LONGER before the runs.. sometimes it takes FIVE minutes or more. And do MORE runs until you have 3 close ones...1-2%

5) Once you have 3 runs, ***record what you did to get them.***

6) Average the runs and plot.

7) Make the *mod* of your choice (adding an air filter, etc)

Again, warm up the car to operating temp.

9) Repeat 2-6 using the exact same method recorded in 5.

10) Compare the results.

10a) On OBD-II cars...reconnect the sensors and ***clear faults***

And if you're not doing it this way, which takes conservatively 2 hours per car per mod...then don't waste your time or money at they dyno.

(foot note: 06 Apr 1999)

-Peter/RSpeed


_________________
R*Speed Mini Accessories*Performance*World Class Service
http://www.rspeed.net
1011 S Marietta Pkwy, Ste 4
Marietta GA 30060
1-888-551-0025
<A HREF=http://www.rspeed.net><IMG SRC=http://www.rspeed.net/images/banner_rspeed_mini.gif></A>

 

Magnaflow offers just the race series muffler for ~$90. If most of the restriction comes from the stock muffler, could this be a less expensive solution ($ per hp)? I realize that the cat back offers a larger diameter pipe and less restiction, but I'm not ready to drop a few hundred on an exhaust. Plus, the gains just aren't there for the MC. I would be very happy with a hundred bucks, if it gave 4hp and a throaty growl.

Randy: your thoughts?

 

I appreciate your opinions Peter.

The plug wires are more of a seat of the pants thing - not so much a dyno thing. Like you said, the dyno isn't the do all end all be all of tuning. For what it's worth, GRM did think the Magnacors a better deal for the Cooper because of the torque (and I'm doing this from memory). As I stated above, the plug wires are not for monster hp gains.

I appreciate the dyno info, as I am doing everything possible to get accurate, apples to apples numbers. The dyno is one very small part of our evaluation process. Here's how it usually goes:

Dyno runs (in controlled setting - I already discussed that I only use warm numbers and all of the ways to "trick" the dyno)
Road course track testing
Acceleration testing in a single gear
Installation
Fit and finish
Seat of the pants difference
Street driving for at least 100 miles
Subjective criteria (for example, on an exhaust - the tips, the sound, the volume)

I fully believe that I have one of the most exhaustive testing methods in the industry. I have spent quite a bit of cash (in fact, I'm still losing money despite the number of orders) on makling sure that this stuff works. I also am one of the few that doesn't commit to one brand to be able to cater a system to what a customer wants - be that the most hp (which, by the way, is what most of you guys seem to want), the best fit, the nicest sound, or the coolest looking.

If you or anyone else has more suggestions on how to make MINI-Motorsport more accurate in the evaluations, I welcome the input. I want to make MINI-Motorsport the place where people can feel they are getting the truth.

Feel free to contact me directly to discuss any concerns or how to make the MINI community a better place!

Keep up the great work - the Cooper system is absolutely beautiful.

Randy
720-841-1002

 

Greetings,
I have a Racing Dynamics Exhaust on my Cooper. (www.racdyne-usa.com) I have only heard three exhausts, this one, the supertrapp and the borla. From a sound standpoint imho the RD sounds best. It is a great comprise between performance and noise levels. On the highway in fith gear, it is actually pretty quiet, no droning. But wind the engine up to 6000 and the MINI screams like a banshee... spins my 15 inch wheels in first as well... Power-wise, my exhaust plus a K&N drop-in filter probably added 3 - 5 hp, with fuel economy solidly 25mpg city (3500 - 4000 rpm shifts) At highway speeds, I get over 30mpg and 400 miles on a tank of gas.

My Cooper also has a coil-over suspension kit, along with a host of goodies, including a custom leather interior. From a performance standpoint, I wanted the Cooper over the S because I planned on tuning it a bit. Sure it's not as fast, but I live in the DC area, and I can already take 25mph corners at 40 - 50 mph... how much faster do I need to go?

If you're looking for a nice sounding exhaust that looks great, the Racing Dynamics is definitely a good buy!

 

>>
>>Magnaflow offers just the race series muffler for ~$90. If most of the restriction comes from the stock muffler, could this be a less expensive solution ($ per hp)? I realize that the cat back offers a larger diameter pipe and less restiction, but I'm not ready to drop a few hundred on an exhaust. Plus, the gains just aren't there for the MC. I would be very happy with a hundred bucks, if it gave 4hp and a throaty growl.
>>
>>Randy: your thoughts?
>>
>>

IF you want to do your own system, that is a total possibilty. I would start with the cat though, and work my way back. Using Magnaflow components for theis example, since that's what you started with:

Off the cat a resonator that brings the stock system from 2" to 2.25", then continue the 2.25" into the aforementioned race muffler, then exit.

This route will probably be a little louder than what's out there, but it will make some power - not sure how much. Costwise, the resonator runs around $80, and the muffler is $90, the tubing would probably be another $100 or so, plus the labor to put it all together. You could get a system that works for under $300 I would bet. Go talk to the local Midas or Meineke and see what they have to say.

The obvious drawback is that you become the R&D test pilot.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Randy

 

Thanks for the info Randy.

>>This route will probably be a little louder than what's out there

I've found reviews that claim the "street series" sound nearly stock until you push it. The sound supposedly a deep tone (rather than the leaf-blower sound) and does not drone. I'm comfortable with the reviews regarding sound--so far.

>>that brings the stock system from 2" to 2.25"

The pipe definately needs to be increased to mate up to a high flow exhaust. I may be misinformed, but I thought that increasing the pipe from the cat MAY reduce low end torque (if too large?)--and the MC definately lacks low end. Last thing I'd want to do is shift that torque curve any higher. Are there any undesired effects of a .25" increase? Any risk of gaining high end hp in exchange for sacrificing low end torque?

>>The obvious drawback is that you become the R&D test pilot.

That's part of the fun, right!?







_________________
A Cooper without a white roof is like a Ferrari that is not red.