How much and what kind are you guys running that have it? Wet or Dry kit?

 

I believe the m7/venom kit is a dry kit, i think the biggest nozzle is equivalent to 90hp.

 

basically all nitrous kits do about the same ****, between the kits you get some extra stuff that just makes things more complicated. I would go with a NX, NOS, or ZEX kit. I personally think that Venom is kinda expensive even though it is the smart kit and all that crap, ZEX does basically all the same stuff and is $300-400 dollars cheaper (its also computerized and won't let you run lean). Just when you get a kit make sure you got a WOT switch and that you don't have a software upgrade cause software upgrades advance timing and that is a big no no with nitrous. Go for the wet kit. Its more expensive but its safer, it puts in nitrous along with fuel into the intake or where ever you chose to plumb it. Dry kits just jet in nitrous by itself without fuel, your fuel system that you have on the car will up the pressure and give more fuel to the nitrous, if your fuel pump fails on a dry kit your going down the river without a paddle (basically meaning that your fu****). Now for jetting, if you don't have upgraded fuel injectors I would run a 55 shot, now if ya got 440 injectors then you can run a 75 shot safely. You can get a external fuel pump from ZEX and then you could probably be able to run a 100 shot (thats as high as i would go). The MCS bottom end is forged from what i hear and supports the twincharge kit on all stock parts so make your choices

 

I am running a Nitrous Express 75 shot. The install was fairly easy.

 

i agree that its easy, hardest in my eyes is plumbing the nozzles, everything else is just running lines and wires. not that hard if ya know what your doing.

 

Hi wc351.....

The reason for our kit (M7/Venom) being a little bit more then the competition
is very simple. Our system is specifically built for the MINI with many safety
systems built in to it's architecture.

Our system will monitor, the fuel injectors, O2 sensor, and throttle signal.
If it receives a signal indicating a lean combustion process the nitrous computer will override the ECU allowing the injectors to go to 100% duty cycle. We do recommend the use of our 400cc injector which will give a huge headroom and a guarantee of not running lean in most situations.

The O2 sensor is part of the safety system that sets our system apart from the competition, it will constantly monitor the A/F ratio and will turn of the
nitrous if it sees a lean combustion.
The use of a WOT switch is a very simple and old style of controlling the
nitrous on signal, we tap in to the voltage signal 0-5 volts guaranteeing a safe control of the nitrous delivery (no microswitches that can go bad).

We also include an A/F monitor, so you can monitor all the necessary functions. We also have a one year warantee, and tech help 7 days a week
to guarantee a successful install.

Feel free to call us at any time, and I can give you a more indepth
explanation of how the system works.

http://www.m7tuning.com/products/nitroussystem.htm

peter
Team M7
562-608-8123

 

My older brother traded some rare guitar for a new ZEX nitrous system. He doenst care about cars and gave the nitrous to me for Christmas. The ZEX System is a dry shot system with some sort of computer that claims to moniter the car's A/F ratio. It has several nozzles: 55, 75, 100, and 125 hp... It also came with 2 purge valves, a 10lb tank, and all the other necessary installation items. I was actually planning on buying the M7 Kit later this summer, but I guess I have an early start, but its not quite what I wanted. Should I sell this kit on ebay for around $300 dollars and continue saving for the M7 kit, or am I safe running the ZEX? I know I have to buy some larger JCW or 400cc fuel injectors also. OR... I wonder if it is possible to only pay for the M7 nitrous computer programming and use my ZEX tank and save some $$$ there? Any other ideas?

 

NX 70hp wet system, stock engine stock fuel system stock injectors. we have run 12.9 @107 best and have 18 nitrous passes with no signs of damage.

 

Me personally I would sell the kit on Ebay. Then you can pickup any wet nitrous kit and it is a pretty straight forward install. Just make sure you have the correct jets for what horsepower setting you want.

For a relatively stock car I would use a 75 shot. You will start running into broken ringlands if you go above 250whp. Trust me I broke two on one piston and one on two other pistons.

 

If your fuel pump fails with either system, you could be in big trouble. A wet sytem uses fuel volume to satisfy it's needs, while a dry system generally uses increased pressure at the injector.

 

Extreme caution should be used if you run a 19% and a black (Venom) valve, even with the 400cc injectors.

Things can go bump in the night!

 

Thanks for the warning...I stick with the green valve (60+hp)...pretty safe A/F that way with 400 Water/meth injection adds more insurance

 

peter,

Does this kit come with a Wide band 02 sensor?

 

No, it doesn't Isellem

 

thanks peter


so the a/f gauge slash sensor should really be upgraded for serious use as a narrow band 02 sensor isn't the best thing in the world...

please don't take this as me baggin on Peter or M7... Hell... i don't even think Peter and M7 developed any of this kit... this kit sounds like all of the other kits that Venom sells for hondas and ever other car...but i could be mistaken... this is me making an assumptions and asumptions usually lead you to bad things... but.. if i remember correctly i think this is pretty accurate... it just sounds like M7 and Venom worked out a contract or a deal of some sort... AND if thats true their is nothing wrong with that!!! Its actually a pretty wise move/idea...

im just simply asking questions to clarify if any parts of the kit should be upgraded to ensure that people wanting a top notch nitrious kit get a top notch product...

thats all

 

LOL...Peter was my guest for four days last week and I started to talk like him M7 does offer PLX wide band controller/gauges but I think most people aren't as **** as I am regarding the exact A/F numbers. The Venom's arm switch incorporates a narrow band indicator (flashing red/green led) to notify the user of it's current state. That said, even a wide band won't be of any use if you're running lean...the Venom would've already shut down the system before anyone could react. I can't speak for Peter but I think it's safe to say that most people wouldn't want to add another $400 to the kit for a wide band upgrade

 

Paul,
What size injectors you running on your wet kit? Do you have any fuel system upgrades or is it stock?
I have the M7 kit but haven't installed it yet. Waiting for a little warmer weather before I put the car up on jacks for a couple of days.
Wayne

 

I agree that most people wont want to spend another 400 dollars... but its these people who will gripe about their car breaking... Its truly sad...

People need to be **** about a/f when they are making lots of power... it is a crucial component to making lots of power... most importantly reliably.

 

Very true...there are many other factors involved in using Nitrous safely. For example, most people are not aware of the fact that a nitrous system, regarless of the controller/nozzle used, has no bearing on maintaining a steady/safe A/F ratio if rpm is not taken into consideration. Introducing Nitrous into the motor at lower rpms is risky because the flow from the bottle is constant while the fuel ratio is unsafely low per revolution. Conversely, bumping the rev limiter with the Nitrous on is especially bad if the engine management involves shutting down the fuel flow...Nitrous + 0 fuel + high rpm = BIG BANG!!! I don't know how the MINI manages the rev limiter so just to be safe, I let off around 6500rpm between shifts. Ideally, use a MSD window switch to automatically limit the Nitrous flow between optimum operating rpms...say between 4 and 6.8k rpm.

Also, maintaining bottle pressure is more critical than temperature. Running a cold bottle (below 80F) will dramatically reduce the Nitrous' performance input. However, while most will be able to get away without using a bottle heater in warmer climates, you cannot get away with using Nitrous when the bottle is overly hot at 100+ degrees as the Nitrous pressure spikes into dangerously high range beyond 1000psi (900-950 optimum psi). Higher pressure equal greater Nitrous flow thus leaning out your setup.

A purge valve is needed to bleed off excess pressure before a run during hot days (not for showing off wasting expensive N2O). A good set up should include a bottle mounted pressure gauge with a electric blanket connected in series to both a thermostat and a pressure switch. Better yet, use a NX Fire & Ice system which can both warm and cool a bottle within a 5psi window.

Beyond a good/proper/safe Nitrous setup, be conservative. While I understand the MINI's motor can survives many drag strip runs with a 100 shot, I'm not prepared to be replacing cylinder heads couple times a year (as Bisch can attest). I am happy to report that my preys are just as dead with a only 60 shot Proper Nitrous application is a little more sophisticated than most people think and not for your average Cave Man (my apologies to the Cave Mens)

 

"I'm not hungry."

 

Sure you don't want the Mango Duck? hmmmm good

 

:evil eye:

 

Actually, the reason you don't want to engage the nitrous at too low of an rpm is because there isn't enough port-velocity in the intake charge. When the intake charge isn't moving fast enough, the fuel atomization begins to break down and all of those little droplets of fuel begin to "glob" back together and puddle. Fuel puddling is what gives us the fantasitc hood/ intake/ supercharger removals.

The purge is used to bring a liquid head of nitrous up to the nitrous solenoid. It just gets rid of the warm nitrous that has turned into a gaseous state.

Window switches are nice, too. As is anything that keeps the bottle at a consistent pressure, rather than temperature.

 

Yes and the effect is the same...slower cycle of fuel injection at low rpms with constant level of N2O injection equals leaner conditions. Agreed...purging is also used to remove "air" from lines but is more useful for removing excess pressure which is more detremental than a slow response off the line

 

Can you use this in conjuction with the m7/venom system? Why do you say 6.8k? Is it because of A/F Ratio? -- Johan