Drivetrain Stroker KIT???
Question for poster:
I know I'll get flack for this, but here goes:
What's a stroker kit?
I hear the term "stroker engine" from the world of V8 muscle cars a lot, on all those saturday morning car shows on Spike TV (like Horsepower TV, Trucks, etc.). But I never know what they mean. Something having to do with increased piston travel, (a.k.a. a larger stroke)?
Please educate me, and the rest of us, as politely as possible.
<<wince in preparation of flaming>>
What's a stroker kit?
I hear the term "stroker engine" from the world of V8 muscle cars a lot, on all those saturday morning car shows on Spike TV (like Horsepower TV, Trucks, etc.). But I never know what they mean. Something having to do with increased piston travel, (a.k.a. a larger stroke)?
Please educate me, and the rest of us, as politely as possible.
<<wince in preparation of flaming>>
What's a stroker??
Stroking a motor refers to changing the length of the connecting rods and corresponding crank pin rotational distance (lengthening the rod normally).
Two ways to increase CU displacement: increase bore diameter or increase piston travel. Lengthening the connecting rod (distance piston travels) increases the stroke and displacement. Most motors require some clearancing to allow the crank to rotate freely and the rod to not hit the bottom sides of the bore. The piston/rod angle changes as you increase the stroke length. Each combination has a preferred rod/ratio to optimize displacment without risking to much wrist pin pressure and sidewall wear.
Do a web search if you want more, this is just a primer. Hope this helps.
Two ways to increase CU displacement: increase bore diameter or increase piston travel. Lengthening the connecting rod (distance piston travels) increases the stroke and displacement. Most motors require some clearancing to allow the crank to rotate freely and the rod to not hit the bottom sides of the bore. The piston/rod angle changes as you increase the stroke length. Each combination has a preferred rod/ratio to optimize displacment without risking to much wrist pin pressure and sidewall wear.
Do a web search if you want more, this is just a primer. Hope this helps.
Yes, that was helpful to me, and I'm sure to others. I appreciate you posting a concise, flameless explanation.
Now, getting back to the original point of this thread, no, I haven't heard of any mods even remotely related to this topic of stroke.
We've all heard of cam shafts, new heads, but I don't know of any kit allowing for longer piston travel, etc. I supposed I'd check with Mini Mania, Pilo Racing, Helix Motorsports, Webb Motorsports, you know, the usual suspects.
good luck in your search.
Now, getting back to the original point of this thread, no, I haven't heard of any mods even remotely related to this topic of stroke.
We've all heard of cam shafts, new heads, but I don't know of any kit allowing for longer piston travel, etc. I supposed I'd check with Mini Mania, Pilo Racing, Helix Motorsports, Webb Motorsports, you know, the usual suspects.
good luck in your search.
stroke kit
You have to change or modify the crank to provide the longer stroke, then you change the rods (or wrist pin location in the pistons) to shorter (custom) rods to allow for the extra stroke with out the piston topping out of the cylinder. This is possible only if there is clearence in the block, and between the piston skirt and the crank.
With VW Beetles, guys would have the crank rod journals turned down "off center". You would get an extra .02 of stroke for every .01 the rod journal is off its original centers. Then instead of using shorter rods, you could shim the (removable) cylinders up by .01 to make up the difference. You ended up with more displacement and a higher compression ratio.
I don't think this was worth while on its own, but if you were tearing the engine down anyway, and your machine shop could do the crank right, it was "free" horsepower.
Speeding up the existing super charger is clearly the cheapest way of boosting the engine HP.
John
With VW Beetles, guys would have the crank rod journals turned down "off center". You would get an extra .02 of stroke for every .01 the rod journal is off its original centers. Then instead of using shorter rods, you could shim the (removable) cylinders up by .01 to make up the difference. You ended up with more displacement and a higher compression ratio.
I don't think this was worth while on its own, but if you were tearing the engine down anyway, and your machine shop could do the crank right, it was "free" horsepower.
Speeding up the existing super charger is clearly the cheapest way of boosting the engine HP.
John
I just wanted to say after looking over the mods list you've performed on you car that you must be running one stoked motor! Just out of curiousity, what kind of power are you putting to da ground?
Sincerely,
Mezspeed
Sincerely,
Mezspeed
Originally Posted by MINIAACK
There is a company in Southern California that is working on a kit. They are not a sponsor of the site. If interested in there name shoot me PM
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I dont know the dyno numbers, but the car runs great. It is a completeley diffrent car from stock. It is a blast to drive. I just got my nitrous installed, but have not used it yet. OBX headers on Friday. I think that is all I will do. This MCS is fast enough for me
Originally Posted by MINIAACK
I dont know the dyno numbers, but the car runs great. It is a completeley diffrent car from stock. It is a blast to drive. I just got my nitrous installed, but have not used it yet. OBX headers on Friday. I think that is all I will do. This MCS is fast enough for me

I would ask JLM or TOO, they had done alot of early research into rebuilding the tritec motor. I remember hearing there was possibly a 1.7L kit, but i'm not sure. I also heard that it was almost impossible to make anything larger, due to the bore or something like that...
Update on the kit (possible)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co....php?p=1816303
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co....php?p=1816303
it's reality.... we will be selling them shortly
the final testing is about complete
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