Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain M7 AGS how to.....

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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 10:14 PM
  #1  
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M7 AGS how to.....

Just wanted everyone to know that the M7 AGS "How to" is finaly up since this Wednesday afternoon. We are shipping product and catching up with the
severe backorder situation.

I would like everyone who receives the AGS system to call us for a fast walk thru of the install to make it super easy

And thank you for waiting without making our lifes misserable. We promisse
it'l be worth it.

http://www.m7tuning.com/howto/agshowto.html

Peter
Team M7

562-608-8123
 
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 10:29 PM
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This looks intense, Peter. Is Speedway going to know how to do all of this stuff, right?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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cant wait to get mine in a few days
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:41 AM
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DO NOT attempt to remove the black stuff. It's not cheap silicone. It's hi-temp RTV and that is what's holding the gasket plate into the AGS tube. Trust me, it looks bad but doesn't affect performance and no one will ever see it once the install is done. I've spoken to Peter about the order of installation and I chose to install the green gasket (buy a new one) into the AGS first. I also recommend that you get some black hi-temp RTV and apply a thin film around the outside of the gasket then insert it into the AGS. Let it cure 24 hours. This will assure that the gasket does not move out of the AGS which is the primary cause of vacume leaks. Also, when tightning the TB bolts, DO NOT OVER TORQUE or you will pull out the embedded threads out of the AGS and that will create a vacume leak. Less than 5 ft/lb is enough to flatten the orange gasket. When installing the filter element, I place the clamp loosely around the filter neck first. Then I placed a piece of thin aluminum stock roughtly 3" x 10" over the TB's mouth. Then slide the filter's opening down against the aluminum until it reaches past the TB's opening. Once the opening and filter are lined up, slowly pull up the aluminum stock and the two should mate into one another. Hope that will enhance your installation experience :smile:
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 08:49 AM
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It looks like step 8 and step 11 are the same - might want to check that.

Kudos on the extensive instructions and pictures!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:05 AM
  #6  
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webstrands
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Originally Posted by M7
Just wanted everyone to know that the M7 AGS "How to" is finaly up since this Wednesday afternoon. We are shipping product and catching up with the
severe backorder situation....
Where are the instructions for installing the Heat Sheild?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by webstrands
Where are the instructions for installing the Heat Sheild?
Or removing the radiator or AC ?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #8  
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KiLO
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From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
It looks like step 8 and step 11 are the same - might want to check that.

Kudos on the extensive instructions and pictures!
Yeah, it's fixed now
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:35 AM
  #9  
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The heatshield instructions will go up today (later this afternoon) but honestly....it's cake, 2 bolts and 2 rubber shims.

Regarding the radiator/AC, you do not remove it, just fold it forward about 6"-7" that's it

peter
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by M7
The heatshield instructions will go up today (later this afternoon) but honestly....it's cake, 2 bolts and 2 rubber shims.

Regarding the radiator/AC, you do not remove it, just fold it forward about 6"-7" that's it

peter
In your pictures it looks like you totally removed the radiator/AC to install the AGS.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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He did but that was for a better photo of the AGS.
Originally Posted by mdsbrain
In your pictures it looks like you totally removed the radiator/AC to install the AGS.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 10:11 AM
  #12  
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Hi there....

Here's the actual text from the how to:

[font=Verdana][size=2] Now crank the steering wheel of the car all the way to its furthest position. Reach in the wheel well and remove the (4) plastic Phillips screws attached on each side of the front clip. There will be (8) bolts in total. Make sure to also unbolt the 10mm bolt with a clip that holds the radiator hose to the intake manifold. The front clip with the radiator can now be carefully folded forward.

I will add 6"-7" so you will know it's not a "removal".
[/size][/font]
And as always if there is questions or concernes, we are here to help.
You can reach us between 9am-7pm Monday - Saturday Pacific Time.

peter
Team M7
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 10:26 AM
  #13  
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Really guys...I'm not a mechanic and I managed to do the install several times. And did it WITHOUT written instruction Don't let the instructions frighten you.


Here's my recollection:

1-Place two jacks under front of Mini.
2-Remove three 10mm bolts and two philip head screws from under the bumper.
3-Rotate steering to one side and remove three fender liner fasteners towards front of Mini on each side.
4-Detach three wiring harness from each side of Mini and pull bumper facia off.
5-Remove two 10mm bolts that attaches the plastic radiator support lower to subframe extentions (one each side).
6-Unbolt four 13mm bolts from each side of bumper beam and pull it off the Mini.
7-Pull top of radiator support off the bumper beam studs and tilt forward. Leave the bottom alone.
8-Unbolt one 10mm throttle tube support.
9-Unbolt four 10mm TB bolts, cut vacume line and remove TB.
10-Disconnect two vacume lines near factory airbox. The one with a white band was a ***** to figure out as the manual said nothing. You need to use a screw driver and push one side of white ring and that will disengage the capturing device inside.
11-Remove factory throttle tube.

That's the extent of the "hard" part. Installation, with the exception of modifying the radiator hose and my gasket/TB instructions aforementioned, is pretty much the reverse.

BTW, a mechanic is someone who's willing/able to replace a clutch in the Mini and that ain't me
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 12:26 PM
  #14  
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Here's some images relating to the install of the AGS heatshield.
As you can see the bolt closest to the IC get's replaced with a stainless bolt.
we also add a total of five rubber washers (2) at the Ic and (3) at the frame member. this will allow some extra flexing of the part. This operation is super easy and it can be done at any time. No need to hold of the AGS install because you are waiting for the heatshield.

peter




 
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