Drivetrain How to get crank pulley off?
#1
#3
#4
- Jack up passenger front of car, use jackstand
- Remove wheel
- Remove plastic wheel well
- Remove belt from crank pulley
- Bolt the holder to the pulley with the three supplied bolts. Best way to get this on is from behind the subframe upright. Handle will be toward the back of the car.
- Loosen the center bolt on the pulley and unscrew it about 1/2"
- Remove the three handle bolts and place the puller over (or in between the pulley and handle) and replace the three bolts. Make sure you have retracted the center bolt on the puller almost all the way out. You should now have both the handle and puller bolted to the pulley. Make sure all is in the same plane as the pulley.
- Now screw in the center bolt of the puller until in makes contact with the pulley bolt (that you have retracted 1/2")
- Hold the handle and start cranking down on the center puller bolt. Do this until you've pulled the pulley out as far as it can before it hits that pulley bolt (that you have retracted 1/2").
- Loosen up the puller so you can now fully unscrew the pulley bolt. Leave that bolt in and repeat the pulling procedure.
- At some point you will have pulled the pulley as far as the pulley center bolt will allow.
- Now remove all tools and the center pulley bolt.
- Now it just takes some wiggling to get the pulley off the rest of the way
- Heat the pulley up a bit and place over the crank shaft
- With a torch (Be very careful) continue to heat up the pulley.
- With protected hands now push the pulley on the shaft as far as it will go, which is usually quite far. A rubber mallet or dead weight hammer works OK also.
- Screw in pulley bolt (you should have cleaned off the old locktight and then added new blue locktight to this bolt)
- You don't need the handle now, but can use it. You will see many bumps on the block just behind the (now open design) pulley. You can stick a 'large' screwdriver through the open pulley and use those bumps on the block as stops. This is hard to describe, but you can use a screwdriver this way to keep the crank from turning as you "torque" down the bolt.
- You need to check torque specs, but I think it's as high as 45 lbs/in
#5
#6
onasled,
Thanks. I see now. I kept thinking the puller was a jig to attach to crank pulley to allow a "standard" puller to pull it off. Very clear explanation.
BTW, AWESOME video in you sig.
Thanks. I see now. I kept thinking the puller was a jig to attach to crank pulley to allow a "standard" puller to pull it off. Very clear explanation.
BTW, AWESOME video in you sig.
Originally Posted by onasled
- Jack up passenger front of car, use jackstand
- Remove wheel
- Remove plastic wheel well
- Remove belt from crank pulley
- Bolt the holder to the pulley with the three supplied bolts. Best way to get this on is from behind the subframe upright. Handle will be toward the back of the car.
- Loosen the center bolt on the pulley and unscrew it about 1/2"
- Remove the three handle bolts and place the puller over (or in between the pulley and handle) and replace the three bolts. Make sure you have retracted the center bolt on the puller almost all the way out. You should now have both the handle and puller bolted to the pulley. Make sure all is in the same plane as the pulley.
- Now screw in the center bolt of the puller until in makes contact with the pulley bolt (that you have retracted 1/2")
- Hold the handle and start cranking down on the center puller bolt. Do this until you've pulled the pulley out as far as it can before it hits that pulley bolt (that you have retracted 1/2").
- Loosen up the puller so you can now fully unscrew the pulley bolt. Leave that bolt in and repeat the pulling procedure.
- At some point you will have pulled the pulley as far as the pulley center bolt will allow.
- Now remove all tools and the center pulley bolt.
- Now it just takes some wiggling to get the pulley off the rest of the way
- Heat the pulley up a bit and place over the crank shaft
- With a torch (Be very careful) continue to heat up the pulley.
- With protected hands now push the pulley on the shaft as far as it will go, which is usually quite far. A rubber mallet or dead weight hammer works OK also.
- Screw in pulley bolt (you should have cleaned off the old locktight and then added new blue locktight to this bolt)
- You don't need the handle now, but can use it. You will see many bumps on the block just behind the (now open design) pulley. You can stick a 'large' screwdriver through the open pulley and use those bumps on the block as stops. This is hard to describe, but you can use a screwdriver this way to keep the crank from turning as you "torque" down the bolt.
- You need to check torque specs, but I think it's as high as 45 lbs/in
#7
No choice in Hawaii
We don't have much of a choice here in Hawaii as our local dealer (only one) will NOT order tools for us. I tried ordering from my old dealer in California (Crevier) but they wanted more that Classic. You DON'T even want to know how much the shipping was!!!
Originally Posted by onasled
Buy the way, I keep hearing how Classic Mini has good prices, ...but what you paid (NAM price) for your tools was about $10-$15 more EACH then I paid at Hartford (CT) Mini.
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