Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain HELP! HELP Alta Pulley Install, Allen Bolt Sheered!!!! HELP!

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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 09:13 PM
  #26  
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nerd
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I once put a bigger carburetor on my Mustang and didn't check inside the carb for anything floating around in there. Started up the car, heard hammering so I shut it off real quick. All I could here at the point was the antifreeze draining into the oil pan. I did rebuild the 302 after that and had a lot stronger engine but it was a lesson learned for me. After the fact I remember being excited and opening the parts bag and then throwing it in the box. I bolt had fell out of the bag into the carb. Found it in one of the cylinders.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 07:16 AM
  #27  
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How about just making the instructions say 7 ft-lb? That should be close to 80 in-lb and well less than the apparent 35 ft-lb shear limit. :smile:
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 07:31 AM
  #28  
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Maybe this thread should be retitled - "Why it just might make sense to pay a professional to install your pulley". Over the last couple years there have been some discussion on and off about how $400 out the door for a installed pulley is a "rip-off" or "way more than it should be". I think after reading through this thread that maybe some of those folks might reconsider.

Although I probably don't plan on putting a pulley on my new '05 MCSa, I think that I would definitely hire someone to do it, probably at a pulley party. There's something to be said for experience, especially when a mistake like this can render the whole car inoperable.

Just for the record, I tend to agree with kaelaria's point that sometimes you can't force people to read and comprehend the instructions. I have this experience every day in my job.

I also agree with Andy's point that the torque spec should probably be expressed in ft/lbs, since that's the measurement that people are familiar with. I don't think my torque wrench is even calibrated in inch/lbs (it's a 1/2" drive, suitable for lug nuts and head bolts, etc). I guess there are probably little mini torque wrenches that might be more suitable for this job.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 07:34 AM
  #29  
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Just another thought: try expressing the torque both in in-lbs and in ft-lbs.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 08:09 AM
  #30  
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Itsdchz
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Originally Posted by BigBrownDog
Maybe this thread should be retitled - "Why it just might make sense to pay a professional to install your pulley". Over the last couple years there have been some discussion on and off about how $400 out the door for a installed pulley is a "rip-off" or "way more than it should be". I think after reading through this thread that maybe some of those folks might reconsider.

Although I probably don't plan on putting a pulley on my new '05 MCSa, I think that I would definitely hire someone to do it, probably at a pulley party. There's something to be said for experience, especially when a mistake like this can render the whole car inoperable.

Just for the record, I tend to agree with kaelaria's point that sometimes you can't force people to read and comprehend the instructions. I have this experience every day in my job.

I also agree with Andy's point that the torque spec should probably be expressed in ft/lbs, since that's the measurement that people are familiar with. I don't think my torque wrench is even calibrated in inch/lbs (it's a 1/2" drive, suitable for lug nuts and head bolts, etc). I guess there are probably little mini torque wrenches that might be more suitable for this job.
With the resend of the new pulley I am still well under the $400 out the door mark even after getting the BMW tensioner tool and Deluxe pulley removal tool, so now, not only do I have experience under my belt of doing the job, and not what to do, I can now offer my tools to people who need them, as well as, my assistance.

As an Avid DIY'er making an honest mistake, I have learned alot from this install, as well as I am able to understand the setup of my new MINI much better.

I am still in it at just shy of $300, saved me $100 which paid for my catch can!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 08:10 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DiD
Just another thought: try expressing the torque both in in-lbs and in ft-lbs.
Alta agreed that the change was something they plan on doing
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 10:39 AM
  #32  
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This is what the isntructions read now:
6) Working in an X pattern tighten each bolt to 10 in/lbs. Continuing to work in the same pattern tighten to 30 in/lbs, 60 in/lbs, and finally 80 in/lbs. Recheck on all bolts after final torqueing.

This is what they will read from here on out:
6) Working in an X pattern tighten each bolt to 10 in/lbs (1.2NM). Continuing to work in the same pattern tighten to 30 in/lbs (3.4NM), 60 in/lbs(6.8NM), and finally 80 in/lbs (9NM). Recheck on all bolts after final torqueing. Make sure to use Inch/Pounds or Newton Meters, not FOOT/POUNDS, or damage may occure to bolts.


All of your suggestions are great. The only one, from Andy, putting them in FT/LBS also really isn't the best idea. The reason being is most Ft/lbs torque wrenches are not accurate below 10 pounds. That is when the In/LBS wrenches come into play. I understand your point to put 2 numbers so people don't get confused, so we will be using NM as the other number. Thanks for all the suggestions, it definately helps us make a better product.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #33  
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Correct terminology for torque is "in-lbs" or "ft-lbs" not "in/lbs" or "ft/lbs".

Torque is a moment (M), which is the application of a force (f) applied a particular distance (r). M = r x f
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #34  
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Since you brought it up -

Here is the cost as I calculate it, based on the prices on Outmotoring.com.

Pulley # 1 - $119.95
Pulley # 2 - $119.95
BMW Tensioner Tool - $59.95
Deluxe Pulley removal tool - 109.95

This adds up to: $409.80, without any shipping (overnight or otherwise). Let's add a reasonable $15 for shipping of all this stuff and you're at $424.80.

I don't understand how you're shy of $300 here -





Originally Posted by Itsdchz
With the resend of the new pulley I am still well under the $400 out the door mark even after getting the BMW tensioner tool and Deluxe pulley removal tool, so now, not only do I have experience under my belt of doing the job, and not what to do, I can now offer my tools to people who need them, as well as, my assistance.

As an Avid DIY'er making an honest mistake, I have learned alot from this install, as well as I am able to understand the setup of my new MINI much better.

I am still in it at just shy of $300, saved me $100 which paid for my catch can!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 11:11 AM
  #35  
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I am glad some good came out of my "tragedy"

Alta- Thank you for the speedy responses and shipping. 4 Stars to your company, and Outmotoring as the retailer!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 11:54 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BigBrownDog
Since you brought it up -

Here is the cost as I calculate it, based on the prices on Outmotoring.com.

Pulley # 1 - $119.95
Pulley # 2 - $119.95
BMW Tensioner Tool - $59.95
Deluxe Pulley removal tool - 109.95

This adds up to: $409.80, without any shipping (overnight or otherwise). Let's add a reasonable $15 for shipping of all this stuff and you're at $424.80.

I don't understand how you're shy of $300 here -
Just for comparison's sake, I got mine from JSC for $106 shipped, and am having it installed this Wed at the Dealer for $300, so $406 total and a 40 min wait for the install. I wouldn't have it any other way. Great price on a VERY nice part (cudos Alta), and a Dealer backed install.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 01:02 PM
  #37  
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Why don't you guy's leave Itsdchz alone.

This fellow came on here and he asked for HELP. Some members here did what they couldn't stop themselves from doing, they HELPED.

You guys are all about, oh no you can't do that, see what happens or take it to a professional, ouch! (where's that thumbs down thingy)

Good grief he can do what ever he wants, it's his MINI.

He did something for himself maybe that's something don't or can't understand.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 01:23 PM
  #38  
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Thank you

FWIW, Outmotoring has helped me on the cost of the reshipped Pulley, which was a Class Act thing to do.

Secondly, the cost of having the tools to do the job is more valuable than not having them as once I reuse them, either for me or to help a friend or fellow MINI owner out, the initial cost is reduced, therefore bringing me down to a lower number overall.

But as I stated the fact that I did it myself, gained the knowledge and understanding of my MINI's engine is invaluable, and much more productive than sitting in a waiting room wondering just what they are doing to my MINI.

With that said, again props to everyone who lended a hand and help, and especially to Outmotoring and Alta!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 02:56 PM
  #39  
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I think you need to relax a bit and settle down. And stop yelling, for goodness sake.

Nobody's picking on him - especially not me. I'm just trying to point out that discussions *in the past, in other threads* where people were pissing and moaning about paying $400 for a pulley install are now subject to some review and reflection, with information gained from Itsdchz's install.

It's nice that Itsdchz was able to get a break on a replacement part from Outmotoring.


Originally Posted by norm03s

You guys are all about, oh no you can't do that, see what happens or take it to a professional, ouch! (where's that thumbs down thingy)

Good grief he can do what ever he wants, it's his MINI.

He did something for himself maybe that's something don't or can't understand.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:43 PM
  #40  
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Thank you all. New pulley installed, all i can say is had I not over torqued, I would have to say this job was a 5 of 10 for difficulty!

NICE!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 10:58 AM
  #41  
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hey congrats on the fix.

ive done plenty of dumb things when modding cars so I just feel your
pain. (for instance, assembled struts forgetting to line up the top mounts
to the car... ... or while using a unversal joint, brainfarted and
tightened a nut excessively when I was suppose to be loosening it,
etc).

 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 01:43 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
hey congrats on the fix.

ive done plenty of dumb things when modding cars so I just feel your
pain. (for instance, assembled struts forgetting to line up the top mounts
to the car... ... or while using a unversal joint, brainfarted and
tightened a nut excessively when I was suppose to be loosening it,
etc).

***** happens, but as long as you learn from it, and no one got killed, something good should come out of it!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 01:53 PM
  #43  
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Heck, I pretty surprised that little bolt took 35 ft-lbs before giving up.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 01:54 PM
  #44  
early_apex
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I have to admit that when I was installing my pulley I had the ft-lbs torque wrench in my hands and was actually looking for a 1/2-1/4 reducer before I realized that I was about to do something very wrong.

Some kind of combination of the adrenaline high of successfully popping off the stock pulley and not reading the instructions closely enough got me to that point. I think seeing the "80", which is a common lug nut torque got me thinking ft-lbs as well.

I'm glad I couldn't find the correct adapters right away or I may have made the same mistake. Glad to hear you got yours sorted out.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 04:31 PM
  #45  
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good job on getting it done! were you using Randy Webb's installation instructions, or someone elses? Also, your name looks really familiar. Did you used to have a white MKIV Volkswagen Jetta? I think I remember you from vortex.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 04:40 PM
  #46  
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a problem with torque wrenches is they don't provide much "feel" when tightening, like you get with a 3/8" drive ratchet. after a while of torking by the numbers, you tend to have no muscle memory for tightening that right amount. That being said, I have about six tork wrenches, including some preset drivers for tiny Torx fasteners for carbide inserts and a very cool Snap-on digital...the only one that really covers a large range and reads out in in-lbs, ft-lbs or N-m. It hums when you get it right.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #47  
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I build optical systems for space based satellites and high flying planes.You haven't lived till you deal in Inch-ounces, inch-pounds, foot-pounds and newton- meters, all in the same assembly! Some of our torque wrenches look like clock dials with no handy dandy little click to tell you when you're there. we even have the technology to calibrate out torque wrenches.I can assure the poor dude who screwed this up in the first post, that you are no where near the first person to make this error.Shame on you guys who could only find the time to grind the poor guy's face in it.

for anyone who's interested here is my company's website: www.ssginc.com
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 05:39 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by kaelaria
Just for comparison's sake, I got mine from JSC for $106 shipped, and am having it installed this Wed at the Dealer for $300, so $406 total and a 40 min wait for the install. I wouldn't have it any other way. Great price on a VERY nice part (cudos Alta), and a Dealer backed install.
A MINI dealer will install an aftermarket pulley?? Isn't that some kind of warranty sacrilege?? Which dealer?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 08:57 PM
  #49  
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There are quite a number who do aftermarket installs. I used Downtown MINI in Orlando: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=41621
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 11:13 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by haulin_oats
good job on getting it done! were you using Randy Webb's installation instructions, or someone elses? Also, your name looks really familiar. Did you used to have a white MKIV Volkswagen Jetta? I think I remember you from vortex.
That be me. 7 VW's later ( The 04.5 GLI is still in the garage). Still love the European cars!
 
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