Drivetrain Spec clutch
Thanks Sid
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
I'm running Spec Stage 2 Kevlar for a couple of reasons...the first being my stock clutch, although not showing any abnormal wear, could not cope with the torque of the combined mods and nitrous. Secondly, stage 2 is rated at 280lb/ft torque...more than I need for a long time. Third, the Kevlar lining supposidly has greater longevity than the four puck ceramic near race stage 3. Fourth, it engages similar to stock and makes driving in stop and go manageble.
The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises
While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.
It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile:
The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises
While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.
It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile:
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
I'm running Spec Stage 2 Kevlar for a couple of reasons...the first being my stock clutch, although not showing any abnormal wear, could not cope with the torque of the combined mods and nitrous. Secondly, stage 2 is rated at 280lb/ft torque...more than I need for a long time. Third, the Kevlar lining supposidly has greater longevity than the four puck ceramic near race stage 3. Fourth, it engages similar to stock and makes driving in stop and go manageble.
The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises
While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.
It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile:
The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises
While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.
It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile:
Really?
I've heard some people have sprung versions but was never able to find any myself. When did you get yours?
I've heard some people have sprung versions but was never able to find any myself. When did you get yours?
Originally Posted by 002
My spec stage 2 did come with dampers (sprung hub), I also got the flywheel, maybe it wont fit with the stock one.
I need a clutch
Ok I have reached the limit of my stock clutch. I bumped up my nitrous to a 75 shot and it's sliping. It's most noticeable in 6th.
I didn't realize it was sliping until I hit the button while passing on the highway. The motor reved up and the car didnt accelerate, then the revs droped and the clutch grabed. Is this normal for a sliping clutch?
Also a question about the longevity of the 2 vs 3... How much of a mileage difference would there be? I need a clutch for drag racing but I drive the car daily.
I didn't realize it was sliping until I hit the button while passing on the highway. The motor reved up and the car didnt accelerate, then the revs droped and the clutch grabed. Is this normal for a sliping clutch?
Also a question about the longevity of the 2 vs 3... How much of a mileage difference would there be? I need a clutch for drag racing but I drive the car daily.
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
Really?
I've heard some people have sprung versions but was never able to find any myself. When did you get yours?
I've heard some people have sprung versions but was never able to find any myself. When did you get yours?I does judder when in stop and go traffic. I have to ride it a little to get going smoothly. It's not that hard to do the install, so I'm going to drive the snot out of it to see how well it holds up.
Originally Posted by spillman
Ok I have reached the limit of my stock clutch. I bumped up my nitrous to a 75 shot and it's sliping. It's most noticeable in 6th.
I didn't realize it was sliping until I hit the button while passing on the highway. The motor reved up and the car didnt accelerate, then the revs droped and the clutch grabed. Is this normal for a sliping clutch?
Also a question about the longevity of the 2 vs 3... How much of a mileage difference would there be? I need a clutch for drag racing but I drive the car daily.
I didn't realize it was sliping until I hit the button while passing on the highway. The motor reved up and the car didnt accelerate, then the revs droped and the clutch grabed. Is this normal for a sliping clutch?
Also a question about the longevity of the 2 vs 3... How much of a mileage difference would there be? I need a clutch for drag racing but I drive the car daily.
There is a good FAQ on clutch materials at the uucmotorworks web site.
Also, spec has torque specs for their stages at their site.
Don't get me wrong it's not easy, but with basic tools it can be done in a weekend, one day with experienced help. The only special tool needed is a ball joint remover for the tie rods and the clutch alignment tool (it should come with the clutch kit).
Basically you move the front end forward, remove the intake including the throttlebody and attached parts.
Pop the tie rod joints, unbolt the balljoints from hub and remove hubs from the struts.
pop out the drive shafts and intermediate shaft.
undo some stuff.
drop the subframe.
Remove trans mount and unbolt the bell housing.
Have a friend spot you removing the tranny or use a cherry picker.
Badda bing badda boom. your done.
Obviously this is not a how to and you should read the shop manual first for all the specifics. But if you prepare, it can be done.
If you are planning on doing this yourself I can give you advise. If you want someone to help or do it for you, I may be able to, for a nominal fee.
Basically you move the front end forward, remove the intake including the throttlebody and attached parts.
Pop the tie rod joints, unbolt the balljoints from hub and remove hubs from the struts.
pop out the drive shafts and intermediate shaft.
undo some stuff.
drop the subframe.
Remove trans mount and unbolt the bell housing.
Have a friend spot you removing the tranny or use a cherry picker.
Badda bing badda boom. your done.
Obviously this is not a how to and you should read the shop manual first for all the specifics. But if you prepare, it can be done.
If you are planning on doing this yourself I can give you advise. If you want someone to help or do it for you, I may be able to, for a nominal fee.
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
I'm running Spec Stage 2 Kevlar for a couple of reasons...the first being my stock clutch, although not showing any abnormal wear, could not cope with the torque of the combined mods and nitrous. Secondly, stage 2 is rated at 280lb/ft torque...more than I need for a long time. Third, the Kevlar lining supposidly has greater longevity than the four puck ceramic near race stage 3. Fourth, it engages similar to stock and makes driving in stop and go manageble.
The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises
While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.
It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile:
The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises
While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.
It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile:
Is the multi-compound friction plate as smooth as the stock one?
Yes and yes:smile: It is sticky (as it should be) but very manageble
Originally Posted by BlueMCS
So, you like it, huh Toy? The Quaife and Fidanza makes a big difference, no?
Is the multi-compound friction plate as smooth as the stock one?
Is the multi-compound friction plate as smooth as the stock one?
Safe to say that's a myth. Poor shifting habits and/or extreme torque strips gears:smile:
Originally Posted by L8RG8R
I had heard that anything above a Stage 2 and we run the risk of stripping gears in the tranny. Is this just an urban legend or is a stage 3 really pushing the limits of the stock gears?
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch is now available here is a description from a vendor.
The perfect option for extreme street driving and heavy drag strip use on heavily modified street and race engines making more torque than the Stage 3 can support. The Stage 3+ clutch kit offers good daily drivability and better manageability than the Stage 3, with even better wear characteristics, it is the best clutch made by SPEC for high powered street driven vehicles. The kit comes with a high clamp pressure plate, full-faced carbon metallic clutch disc with high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearings and tool.
They claim that it will hold up to 420 lbft of TQ for the Mini S. Anyone have this? -- Johan
The perfect option for extreme street driving and heavy drag strip use on heavily modified street and race engines making more torque than the Stage 3 can support. The Stage 3+ clutch kit offers good daily drivability and better manageability than the Stage 3, with even better wear characteristics, it is the best clutch made by SPEC for high powered street driven vehicles. The kit comes with a high clamp pressure plate, full-faced carbon metallic clutch disc with high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearings and tool.
They claim that it will hold up to 420 lbft of TQ for the Mini S. Anyone have this? -- Johan
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch is now available here is a description from a vendor.
The perfect option for extreme street driving and heavy drag strip use on heavily modified street and race engines making more torque than the Stage 3 can support. The Stage 3+ clutch kit offers good daily drivability and better manageability than the Stage 3, with even better wear characteristics, it is the best clutch made by SPEC for high powered street driven vehicles. The kit comes with a high clamp pressure plate, full-faced carbon metallic clutch disc with high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearings and tool.
They claim that it will hold up to 420 lbft of TQ for the Mini S. Anyone have this? -- Johan
The perfect option for extreme street driving and heavy drag strip use on heavily modified street and race engines making more torque than the Stage 3 can support. The Stage 3+ clutch kit offers good daily drivability and better manageability than the Stage 3, with even better wear characteristics, it is the best clutch made by SPEC for high powered street driven vehicles. The kit comes with a high clamp pressure plate, full-faced carbon metallic clutch disc with high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearings and tool.
They claim that it will hold up to 420 lbft of TQ for the Mini S. Anyone have this? -- Johan
Holy post ressurection Batman!!!
Anyway, I talked at length with Randy and we will be going Stage 2 for my TC kit. With all said and done it should be around 300whp and the 2 will "more than ahndle it" according to him. The 3 is just too snappy for a DD.
your milage may vary.....

Anyway, I talked at length with Randy and we will be going Stage 2 for my TC kit. With all said and done it should be around 300whp and the 2 will "more than ahndle it" according to him. The 3 is just too snappy for a DD.
your milage may vary.....
Spec now makes a stage 2+ option. Might be just the clutch we need.
More info on their site:
http://www.specclutch.com/
More info on their site:
http://www.specclutch.com/
The Cosmic Purple Mini has had both stage 2 & 3. The stage 2 felt much closer to stock but only lasted about 15K. I have driven a number of different vehicles including trucks and had never gone through a clutch. But a few track days and a couple nights at the drag strip figuring how to best launch ended in a bell housing full of dust.
The stage 3 was added at the same time we added a ring and pinion to the tranny. It's been a lot jerkier experience for the street. Between the clutch and gearing, fun in Cosmic is best had on the track. Street driving has been more challenging. I am much more aware of only using the clutch when necessary and have become pretty good at heel-toe shifting.
We have run into some problems even with the stage 3. One of the springs on the clutch disc came lose and beat up everything in the bell housing. Spec appears to be more than willing to work with us. The situation is still ongoing. I will look into the stage 2+.
One vendor told me that i was definitely not the only mini to go through the original stage 2 in a short course. So maybe the stage 2+ is somewhat of a fix.
My recommendation is that if your stock is working well, don't change it unless you burn it. There are a number of twinchargers running stock without any problems. So if you have to change clutches more frequently, that might negate the claims about burning up the stock setup quickly if you have more horses.
The stage 3 was added at the same time we added a ring and pinion to the tranny. It's been a lot jerkier experience for the street. Between the clutch and gearing, fun in Cosmic is best had on the track. Street driving has been more challenging. I am much more aware of only using the clutch when necessary and have become pretty good at heel-toe shifting.
We have run into some problems even with the stage 3. One of the springs on the clutch disc came lose and beat up everything in the bell housing. Spec appears to be more than willing to work with us. The situation is still ongoing. I will look into the stage 2+.
One vendor told me that i was definitely not the only mini to go through the original stage 2 in a short course. So maybe the stage 2+ is somewhat of a fix.
My recommendation is that if your stock is working well, don't change it unless you burn it. There are a number of twinchargers running stock without any problems. So if you have to change clutches more frequently, that might negate the claims about burning up the stock setup quickly if you have more horses.
Spec now makes a stage 2+ option. Might be just the clutch we need.
More info on their site:
http://www.specclutch.com/
More info on their site:
http://www.specclutch.com/
Spec now makes a stage 2+ option. Might be just the clutch we need.
More info on their site:
http://www.specclutch.com/
More info on their site:
http://www.specclutch.com/
I just got off the phone with a Rep. from Spec and he said the driving characteristics of the Stage 3+ is comparable to the Stage 2. He said that's because it's a disk type rather than a puck type. Also holds up to 420lbs of TQ

Oh and they're 15% off until the 30th.
Should be interesting
-- Johan
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