Spec stage 1, 2, 3...? Which one is your preference and why?

 

Definitely a Spec 2 Clutch........the reason........it will grip with 200hp under the bonnet to redline........do you need more power? Go with the Spec 3. The higher you get the more "switchlike" the clutch will be and if you do any daily driving this will be horrible in traffic and stoplights.

I got the Spec 2 clutch and lightened flywheel in my Cooper and absolutely love it. Only thing different is now my car hawls *** because of the less rotational mass of the flywheel and the taller pedal feel which I love.

 

Agreed with McCullster. except i went with the stage 3 clutch and have gotten use to it. So traffic isn't that bad. Of course when others try my car they have a tendency to stall it from a dead stop cause of the switch like clutch.

 

That's what I'm leaning towards. How touchy is the clutch? Thanks

 

Stage 1: Why bother?

I have the stage 3 and it's grabby, but livable. Just get used to using the ebrake on hills with redlights. The biggest change with the Spec clutches is that the clutch engages near the top and not down by the floor.

Also a bit grabby even in higher gears. I've been driving standards since 1981 and it can be a little jerky even when I'm trying to be as smooth as I can.

 

I have the Spec Stage 2 clutch and it holds just fine with the amount of power that I am producing . BTW I am using the stock Flywheel.


Cheers,

MeanGRN

 

That's interesting...does that mean it also disengage near the top also? Less travel needed with pedal? When you say "grabby", are you able to slip the clutch at all?

Thanks

 

I could probably use the clutch by only pushing it halfway in, but haven't tried it. I'm too used to pushing all the way in.


I can slip the clutch, but if you don't want bog or whiplash you have to think about it every time. I sometimes wonder if people behind me on hills think I'm a new driver.

 

For speed shifting during drag racing.. yes it can be done with only1/2 or less of the clutch depressed with no gear grind. Also have done it at idle and gone thru all gears with no movement. Also have been driving a clutch since 83. As with Veni well knows back then you had to work a clutch to make the car go.

 

not sure why you would want stage 3; stage 2 can handle all the torque my 250 hp mini can produce. 3 is only recommended for the track, not the street.; as I see it, its in the same need category as a parachute.

 

I plan to eventually run 300 hp. Maybe I'm dreaming, who knows. What I don't want to do is drop $800 in labor because I should have gotten a beefier clutch in the first place.

The parachute goes in right after the Westinghouse turbojet.

 

That's my thinking too...the labor's too expensive to get it wrong Better to be over prepared:smile:

 

here is the link:

http://www.specclutch.com/specMain.html

looks like 3 might not be only track rated; that would be 4.

So far, I think Hubie is still running the stock clutch, can you believe it? though he has admitted he can toast it if he wants.

I've been running spec 2 and it is very driveable. go big, cowboys!

here is a very helpful supplier:
http://www.clutchexpress.com/

 

Of course I only have maybe 220 HP at the crank, but I've been using the stock clutch for 22,000 miles. Auto-xd it last year, launching at 3000 rpms.

I was gonna replace it but Charlie Rossier at RDR looked at it and said there was no need. So I (RDR) only installed the Quaife and flywheel.

No problems yet, but I wish I'd done it anyway, just to be safe.

 

We just installed a SPEC Stage 1 along with an M7 Segmented Flywheel in Sarcux's MCS this weekend. The pedal effort is similar to stock, however the engagement is definitely more crisp (or snappy) than stock. It definitely grips much harder than stock.

If you look at the Torque capacities on SPEC's website, it goes like this:

Stage 1: 235 Lb-Ft
Stage 2: 280 Lb-Ft
Stage 3 and 4: 315 Lb-Ft
Stage 5: 490 Lb-Ft

Honestly, if you're keeping the M45 on your MCS, the Stage 1 is all you need. Now if you add Nitrous, Twincharge, etc., then Stage 2 or 3. Keep in mind my stock clutch holds good with a calculated 195 crank Lb-Ft. El Diabolito is running the stock clutch disk with an M7 pressure plate with 260 wheel Lb-Ft.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

does anyone know what torque the clutch sees, since it is before the transmission? I doubt is is much above 280 ft-lbs even for a 300 whp car...

 

Shouldn't the clutch see the same torque that the engine shows on an engine dyno?

 

^^ Yes, the clutch ratings are typically for crank torque.

 

hey ryan,
i discovered today that my clutch needs replacing. i have 44,000 miles on my s now so i guess it is to be expected.
i'm here in california researching clutchs and found this thread. do you like the spec clutch? do you have experience with rps performance? they are here is southern california...
any tips you can give me will be greatly appreciated. cheers!
oh yes and do you have experience with harmonic balancers??? mine seems to be causing a vibration grrrrrrr
thanks again,
julia

 

Ryan doesn't have one...at least he didn't tell me:smile: But I had one install by them (Detroit Tuned) and they're great I have the Stage 2 Kevlar

 

I have the stock clutch and it's still going well at over 37k miles. Under high load situations it will slip very slightly sometimes only for a split moment, but considering my torque of about 195-200 crank Lb-Ft, that's to be expected.

 

Hi Ryan,

that's a lot of torque.......what are your mods that you are willing to share and do you have a lightened flywheel?

Bob

 

I have a SPEC stage 3 and love it. It's fine on the street once you realize you're driving a different clutch.
My stock clutch with nitrous was slipping badly. The stage 3 with my turbokompressor grabs like super glue.

 

hey anyone out there used an rps clutch on their mini??? i'm jamming my shifter into gear, very stiff and tight so it appears to be the clutch that needs replacing. i'm doing some research on my own and spec seems to be the one most people are using. rps is a local manufacturer out here in southern california. my mechanic seems to like them, just wondering if anyone on the forum is familiar with them and/or would reccommend this clutch. they have a website: rpsmachine.com
and what about a lighter flywheel? is it worth the time and money to replace? i don't race but if this is something that will be need to be done in the future then i'm willing....
i'm a novice 'car guy' (actually not a 'guy' at all ) so i'm trying to glean what i need to know from you all...
so i still have questions about the harmonic balancer. i have a vibration coming from somewhere in the engine area, kind of like a rattling hamster cage, especially when the car is cold. it has been suggested that it is my harmonic balancer. so i kind of get what this is but have not heard of anyone replacing theirs in minis.
help! need info! anyone???

 

I'm running Spec Stage 2 Kevlar for a couple of reasons...the first being my stock clutch, although not showing any abnormal wear, could not cope with the torque of the combined mods and nitrous. Secondly, stage 2 is rated at 280lb/ft torque...more than I need for a long time. Third, the Kevlar lining supposidly has greater longevity than the four puck ceramic near race stage 3. Fourth, it engages similar to stock and makes driving in stop and go manageble.

The Spec stage 2/3 do not have dampers so you will get the diesel like clatter when you're idling with the clutch out. But I happen to like race car noises

While spending the money/time to open up the transmission, I invested in a Findanza 12.5lb flywheel with replaceble face plate and a Quaife LSD. And yes, Quaife does make whirling/buzzing noises during engine braking.

It's a big investment but well worth the effort:smile: