You can do it!!!! (as said by Rob Schneider in Waterboy)

 

What in the world are you heating up to install a Helix pulley???
There is also no drilling needed.
Who told you, you have to heat or drill to change a pulley?
It's a two piece clamp on just like the Alta except it has six screws to more evenly distribute the clamping force torque.
If your thinking of reinstalling the stock pulley, now that would require heating the pulley itself.

 

And I guess it makes them go on easier. Glad you got your Helix on ok. I was looking at that one too, but the free rental from Randy sold me. So you got any tips?

 

Definatley DIY, Its easy, and a nice weekend project. I did mine in about 3 hours. I got the DIY instructions from Randy Webbs site, they're great and easy to follow. I have the pulley tool you can borrow if you decide to do it yourself. (it the square one, not the fancy one pictured earlier)


Nik

 

I think I'm borrowing the one from Randy that attaches to a crow's foot and you screw it off, right?

They do have one that is 2 piece that attaches to the stock pulley and you drill it off–that sounds prettty messy–I'd be afraid of getting metal shavings where I'm not supposed too.

 

[QUOTE=JakeBRG]I think I'm borrowing the one from Randy that attaches to a crow's foot and you screw it off, right?[QUOTE]

Yup, Just like Randys. So you do need the crow's foot, and the tensioner tool (but there are ways around that )

Nik

 

A belt tensioner tool is very handy to have. I made my own from scrap steel. Got the dimensions from some nice folk here on NAM that bought the factory junk that breaks on first use, they may have gotten better though.. Be gentle with the tensioner arm when you compress and then release the tension on it. Some ppl have had the arm break on them after a pulley job, some ppl have said they believe this was due to rough treatment of the tensioner, others a design fault, I think the former.. I haven't had any problems.
When jacking up the engine go slow and make sure the radiator hose in the front doesn't get hungup. I used the same type pulley clamp that he is sending you that a buddy lent me, it was purchased from Randy. Hopefully it will have all the correct lenth bolts with it. I did mine last Sping so what I remember is limited. If he is supplying the crows foot puller, before you use it be sure it is clean and well lubed, same for the clamp. I used a piece of 2X6 about a foot long on top of the floor jack to spread the load. The hardest part was getting the small lower bolt started for the tensioner plate into the engine block. I removed the passenger side front wheel to do this and it makes it easy to reroute the belt if your replacing it also. To keep the pulley from turning while tightening the screws in a criss cross fashion, wrap the belt around it and pinch it while tightening them. Don't forget to use loctite on the screws. I used what loctite recommends for screws this size about 6 mm I think I.E. the blue that does not require heat for removal.
If I think of anything else I'll post. You can do it.
PS Saturn's, yeah we can talk Saturns too.

 

If I think of anything else I'll post. You can do it.
PS Saturn's, yeah we can talk Saturns too

THANKS

Yeah, I want to push ours off a cliff. I know some people who love them, but I'd love to just push it off a cliff. It's an SW2 on its second engine. Runs like a stuck pig when you floor it but it handles like one too. I know some people who love them, but I'd love to just push it off a cliff. Have you had good luck with your Saturn?

The Mini has been flawless mechanically aside from an occasional throwout bearing rattle. Uses very little oil so I think it's a good candidate for a pulley. I've read that some on NAM have gotten the catch can to get the extra oil hiccuping back to the SC but I wont be doing much track driving if any at all so I think I'll wait for that mod. I think I'll go for the iridium plugs next...