Recipe for 180 FWHP (210 flywheel)


EXHAUST:

$200 for the OBX header from ebay as seen here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=36431

Install how to:
http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8

$60 for the "one ball" exhaust mod. They chop off one muffler. This could be
done locally.

Cost= $260


PULLEY:

Full 19% pulley DIY install instructions with pictures. Also something to note,
Randy at webb will loan the tool to remove the pulley for free when you buy
a pulley from him : )

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forum...topic.php?t=17

Cost= $120


ECU:

Buy the MTH Software and cable set for $140. There is a full thread about
this on NAM :
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=29218

Cost= $140


IGNITION:

One heat range colder NGK spark plugs.

Cost= $10


INTAKE:

"Hot air intake". Use the RU-1540 and small breather.

Cost= $60



TOTAL COST= $590

TOTAL HP= 50hp

That's $11.8/hp

 

sounds good. that header is a GREAT deal

 

dynos? Or is this just speculation? Remember gains are not additiive. If header (10) + one-ball (3) + 19% (20) + mth (5) + HAI (5) =43

We you add them all together, figure AT LEAST 1/3 less. So MAYBE the above would make 28hp at the wheel. That's about 31 at the flywheel for a total of (163+31) 194. And that's giving the benefit of the doubt on some of those mods.

But hey - if you got a dyno sheet of all that - let us see! :smile:

 

Great consolidation of info and it shows you how cheap you can mod the car, but I don't think the 50hp is realistic. I would say it is more in the 30hp range.

 

Unless something has changed, Randy doesn't recommend the 19% pulley and I couldn't find them for sale on his website. You'd need to find the pulley removal tool somewhere else; possibly at additional expense.

 

Thanks for the modding info!

 

Personally, if I were to go 19%, I would go GIAC. It is more expensive, but think of it as insurance.

 

You have that backwards, if you add mods together they will benefit each other. Not to mention you will get more than 5hp from the MTH flash, especially with the 19%. If you do the one ball and also remove the pre-muffler you will se additional power gains above 3hp as that is a large restriction point.

I don't think you have read this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...000#post482000
Thats 170hp to the wheels without a header or the MTH flash. 180hp to the wheels is not only possible with this setup but a conservative estimate

 

He carries ALTA and they have a new 19% pulley. If you ask for it he will most likely be able to get it.

 

 

What? No belt, no IK22s, no wires, no add'l cooling? NO DICE

 

Based on the quoted paragraph below (from his website), I wouldn't be too sure about his willingness to sell a 19% pulley, Alta or not. But it never hurts to ask, I guess.

 

Mods can benefit each other, but the power gains are not additive. Ask any of the tuners on this board or look at any of the dyno's posted. Most of this is due to the fact that mods will show extra peak hp by themselves, but most often the extra hp across all the different mods are at different rpm ranges. If one mod all by itself yields 5hp extra peak at 6500 rpm and another mod adds 4hp extra peak at 6000 rpm. The two don't give you 9hp. The extra power is great since it flattens out the power band more. This is the problem when you are looking only at peak hp. Peak hp doesn't tell you the whole picture. I would much rather have a more area under the curve at 3,000 rpm than a couple of extra hp at 7500rpm. 7500 rpm may do a racer good, but the average driver could care less about it, except for bragging rights on their max hp. Higher peak hp doesn't mean the car will accelerate faster than a lower output car nor does it even mean it will get around a track faster. It is a nice number that tuners like to throw out there, because it sells. Plain and simple. Gullible and inexperienced wanna be racers look at these numbers and they are the ones who dispense of their cash for these items the quickest, therefore tuners are compelled to show them. I would pay a good deal more money for a mod that raised my torque considerably even though it gained me only 1 or 2hp, than a mod that gained me very little to no torque just for 10hp at 7200 rpm.

 

That is actually not even 169hp. I doubt the MTH and OBX header will net more than 11hp conservatively as you state. Even then it would have all the items you listed in your first post on this thread, and 180hp doesn't make 210 at the flywheel. The Mini is only showing roughly in the 11-12% range for driveline loss, making this setup less than 200hp.

 

But if you add the plugs and wires and take 30 HP, you still get right around $20/hp.... And if this won't make 210, how does the works set-up do it? You could still add oversized injectors, and this SHOULD do about the same as a new works kit..... Afterall, it's not much different. And it's till very inexpensive....

Matt

 

AMEN! That's why I went with 15%/CAI/Cat-Back/Unichip — it's safe and gives me more torque where I drive the most.

 

So this is all speculation?

 

It IS inexpensive!

Matt

 

Thanks dgszweda1. You stated it perfectly. I thought this was common knowledge but I guess not.

Ryephile - yes this whole thread is "speculation".

KevinR - Yes Randy is down on the 19%, but he sells them.

 

I stand corrected.:smile:

 

this is true..... I am at 210 at my crank and all I did was the intake, exhaust, and pulley....and that's a 17% not 19%

I am calculating that with a 12% drive train loss....my WHP is 188...there fore technically it's more like 213 at the crank but I round #s cuase that 3 HP is not going to make me faster than 210

 

The belt is included with the pulley.

IK22's are not needed and are too expensive. Some simple NGK plugs one heat range colder will do the trick and would be ~ $10.

Plug wires are not needed and niether is add'l cooling.

 

It is all about the area gained under the curve. Peak HP is just a measuring tool to impress potential buyers who don't know how to read a dyno sheet.

The reason for the header is not the HP as you actually gain very little, what I really want is the 10# of TQ all the way across the rev range.

That's also my reason to go 19% instead of 15% because of the additional top end and mainly because of the big bump in tq/hp in the low revs.

One other thing, im not an english teacher, im just a car guy, so I guess I meant that gains can benefit each other and they are not additive.

 

I was unaware that the mini had such an efficient drivetrain. Do you have any proof of this?

Are you sure you just dont want your $5,000 john cooper works to get smoked by a mini with $600 worth of mods? j/k

 

Not all, just about adding the header and MTH flash. See here:

http://www.northamericanmotoring.co...2000#post482000