Hey everyone! I have an 08 R56 that will be going on stands in a couple of weeks for a complete engine overhaul. I'm still figuring out pistons, rods, etc. and would like to know what services I should have done at the machine shop? Both block and head. Also, doing this build, how much do you think I would save going with sourcing parts and a shop VS buying the short block super sport from Sneed4Speed at $3400? Will it be worth the extra hassle? If I'm not giving enough info for an answer, let me know what else I can add.






2008 R56 is about all I have for a signature for now..........

 

What are your goals for the car / engine? And will labor be DIY?

 

My goal at this point is going to be to get whatever I can HP wise (200-300 whp) with an upgrade to a K03 Hybrid turbo, tune, stock down pipe. I want to put in forged internals for a more beefy system and the ability to move up to a K04 and 3" down pipe and exhaust in a couple of years. Depending on how much I have to spend on the block and head, will dictate how much more I can upgrade other components. I plan to have the head ported and polished both intake and exhaust. I also want the machine shop to balance everything including the flywheel. Part of this build is a new clutch and aluminum flywheel. Then I will move on to the rest of the car. I just don't want to miss anything important at the machine shop as I have never dealt with one before and it appears there are a lot of options.

 

The closer you get to 300WHP, the more you'll want a Cylinder Support System. These guys --- https://cylindersupportsystem.com/?f...R26x53-qiqMq0Q will install their CSS then match the bore size to pistons you furnish. Their work is guaranteed to 500WHP and well worth their price.

Be sure your new flywheel has the hole needed for timing. There's a couple suppliers out there that don't have it and at least one that can't have this feature because of their flywheel contours.

When balancing crank and flywheel, you need to decide where to install the guide pin during the balance process. It's not a lot of weight, but could cause an un-balance condition during high RPM's. Maybe balance them together, as a set?

I highly recommend Thumper Performance for head work. Several years of experience with R53 and R56.

Also, do a trial-fit/ manual rotation with at least one set of pistons and rods assembled on the crank and block --- BEFORE balancing. Not all combinations of piston / rod will work together without interfering with each other.

 

Thank you oldbrokenwind! Just the kind of info I'm looking for. Thumper sounds like the best way for my head for sure. I was looking at CSS. Maybe I will give them a shout about piston/rod combos.

Are you in Reno? The only reason I ask is I'm from there.

Cheers!

 

Main reason I chose CP and Carrillo for pistons and rods is they used to be one company, so I was pretty sure the parts would be compatible. They are, but I tried one set first anyhow. Only problem with Thumper and CSS is the shipping --- top half of the block isn't that heavy, but it's awkward, bulky, and needs lotsa packing. Same with the head. No regrets tho --- I'd do it again if rebuilding another one.

I'm located about a half hour east of CC --- middle of nowhere, but it's growing fast. Let me know if you're ever in the 'hood again. Wife and I do Reno / Tahoe / VC once in awhile. I have fun driving 6-Mile Canyon and Geiger Grade.

Be sure to start a build thread.

 

It kinda looks like Thumper just sends you a built to spec head with a core charge. I have to get this thing apart to see what things look like. I bought it cheap knowing the first thing would be an engine. It starts right up and idles real fine. It drives too but in limp mode. No compression on number 2 and the guess at this point is a burnt valve. I'm going to try and do this right the first time so I will only have to do it a couple more times.


Will do on the thread. One of these days, and after I get this mini done, you will see me in Reno. Hopefully the covids will be over by then.

 

Avoid the core charge and send yours right away --- it's a CORE charge, broken / burnt valves don't count. Just remember, cam caps are part of the head and NOT interchangeable --- cam journals are line-bored, note the lack of cam bearings.

If you're thinking about installing bigger cams someday, this would be the time to go with tighter springs and retainers. I don't know if Thumper will furnish them, or you need to. Supertech is a popular source. With K03 / 04 turbo, high-temp valves are probably overkill, but depending on your upgrade to 300+WHP schedule, this might be a good time to get them --- inconel exhaust and black nitrited intake.

Another thought --- head rebuild gasket kits sometimes include valve stem seals. Get the kit before shipping the head and include the seals --- maybe get a little discount from Thumper. Or get a kit without these seals, unless you have another use for 16 valve stem seals.

 

Great info! These are the things I need to know. I had no idea about the caps.

I thought I read somewhere that going with bigger cams messes with the VANOS? I think I'm going to run stock cams for now but I may have the springs done as they won't add a lot more to the head work. $$$$ is starting to get up there.

I'm hoping to do the short block and head for around $6k and a new oil pump will add $500 to that. I figure if I have a solid base, I won't have to worry about that.

 

I'm running bigger cams and the only problem I have involving vanos is setting timing --- it wants to slip because valves are applying more pressure, trying to move the cam. Using more pre-tension on the tool seems to counter-act this pressure. No complaints with cam performance or timing.

I'm still running my original oil pump --- 101K miles. Why do you want to replace yours? If any pump needs changing, I'd choose the vacuum pump. When it seizes, it typically breaks the exhaust cam and bends some valves. Not an un-common failure either. Finally changed mine at 100K, just for insurance purposes --- protect my investment.

When selecting piston CR, think about maximum boost you'll be building for. 10.5:1 is OEM for MCS and is safe for up to 300WHP with about 22PSI max. After that, as boost goes up, CR should go down. I'm running 9.0:1 and 30PSI, but also have CSS for protection. When I blew out a cylinder wall with 10.5:1 and 30PSI (before my CSS), there was some good discussion on formulas for cylinder pressure --- way over my head. It's located somewhere in my previous build thread, if you're interested. With all this upgrading, you'll need a good tuner. Maybe talk to him about piston CR and boost. All I can furnish is experience with my own build.

Sounds like you've ruled out the Sneed4Speed option. Reasons?

 

This car has 116k and is out of Vegas. No Rust! It looks pretty well taken care of, though I don't know its history. I should pony up and get the car fax. I had to put a vacuum pump on it when it got to the house so I bought one from ECS. I believe it's OEM. Because of the mileage and all the money I'm spending, I figured a new oil pump would be prudent. My thoughts on a turbo is a hybrid K03, so I was thinking of 10:1's as it splits the difference.

My thoughts on a tune are Manic or RPM stage 2 but haven't really delved into that a bunch. The way I collect hobbies though, I may end up with an R56 for racing. Course that might cost me a wife.

The Sneed4Speed option is rising fast on the list. It really reduces the hassle factor and from what I can tell, from NAM, is they are a pretty good company to work with. I was thinking I could send the head to Thumper and get S4S short block super sport for about the same money.

I was just out messing with it in the driveway. This is going to be fun! I'm getting a new driveway in a couple of weeks and that's when it goes in the garage and up on stands. I can't wait to get it open and see what I'm up against.

 

Super Sport JR

 

Try to get the specs for the super sport JR, then see if they match or beat your long-term goals. Their pic shows no CSS, 10.5:1 pistons, and crank is polished, not balanced. "SneedSpeed" rods and "forged" pistons can be almost anything, but probably not a "name" brand. I can't believe it will handle 600HP as advertised. However, it should provide a good base to start your next set of upgrades. Take a look at their next level of engines, then compare those prices with what's outlined above. If you have engine rebuild experience and all the tools required, you should be better off putting it all together yourself. S4S is great for the novice and those without time / patience.

Manic isn't available for tunes any more, altho the tuner is still doing tunes, just not under the Manic name. RPM is most popular --- I've talked with Lorenzo in Vancouver a couple times. I also recommend Lou at https://prototype-r.com another Florida operation.

Whatever you choose, I'm sure it will be better than what you have now. Have fun with it ---