My oil cooler developed a slight leak, so I decided it was time for a bigger one (oil to air). With this whole covid thing going on, an adaptor plate would take weeks — if not months — to get to me. So I built one myself. It's going on the car this afternoon.


Oil cooler adaptor.

 

Nice!

 

Looks great did you do all the machine work yourself? Did you just trace out the pattern or
did you CAD design and cnc machine it?

 

Thank you!

 

Yes, I did all the work myself. I have a complete CNC machine shop, including a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). This allows me to measure any point in 3D space to 1µm (1 Micron; that's 1 millionth of a meter, or 40 millionths of an inch, for all of you still stuck in the archaic Imperial system of measurement). I then drew it up in CAD, created the toolpaths, made a fixture to hold the material, then machined the part. I started with 16mm thick 6061 T-6 Aluminum, & skimmed both sides so the O-rings have a flat surface to mate with.

I have to run to the auto parts store to get some hardware, I'll report more as soon as I'm done.

 

Looks awesome!

 

Since I am replacing the oil/water cooler with an oil/air cooler, I figured I'd just completely remove the coolant lines that leads to the original oil cooler. Most kits suggest using one of the U-shaped hoses & connecting it to the other pipe; thereby forming a loop for the coolant to travel through. But I figured, all those joints? Just more places to develop a leak (& knowing my luck, it would happen at the most inopportune moment). So off them come! You'd be surprised how much more room there is to work on other things once those lines are gone!

Oil Cooler Lines

The problem is, now you have 2 open coolant ports near the back of the airbox. One could buy some rubber caps, but I feel I have a better way, it is as follows:


Coolant Junctions


Once the coolant hoses have been removed, you will find 2 junctions; a tee & a cross. replace the cross with the tee, & replace the tee with a butt splice connector (available at any auto parts store for about $5.00). Whilst you're in there, take those **** squeeze-style hose clamps off & throw them FAR way! Replace them with some quality worm-screw style hose clamps (trust me on this one; you'll thank me later). The finished process should look something like this:

Coolant Hose Re-route.

Now to mount up the adaptor plate. Between it & the oil filter housing are 2 oval shaped O-rings, replace them! They are famous for getting hard, shrinking, & leaking! You're in there, don't be a cheapskate! They're only $5.00 a piece at the dealer. You don't want to do this job again, do you? The O-rings go around the oval shaped ports. The rear-most port (the one at an angle) is the pressure port, & the vertical one closest to the motor is the return. This will be very important in the installation process; as we shall soon see.


Oil Filter Housing

Mount the cooler to the A/C condenser; Hayden mounting rods — they work on the same principle as a zip-tie — work great for this, & they're cheap! I've used them for years & never had one fail; not even on my desert racing motorcycle (KTM 525 EXC). You'll have to take the aluminum bumper off in order to route the lines, but position the cooler first, because otherwise the lines and/or the cooler may rub against the bumper. That could wear a hole in it, & that would prove...problematic, to say the least.

Cooler From the Front

Cooler From the Top

You'll also need to clearance your bumper where the lines feed though, just above the right crash tube/lower bumper mount (about 5 minutes work with a die grinder).

Clearanced Bumper

I also highly recommend you run some anti-chafing over your hoses. This stuff is industrial strength, really tough hose guard! It's available at Parker hose for about $2.50/ft.

Parker Anti-chafing Hose Guard

Remember when I said to note which port is the pressure (feed) port, because it would be important later on? Well, now is the time. I know what you're thinking: "But Tommy, what difference does it make which direction the oil flows through the cooler?" Answer: None at all...UNLESS you are going to run a thermostat! Which I strongly exhort you to do; & here's why: The cooler is quite thermally efficient, & can cool the oil too much; never allowing it to get to operating temperature. This is especially true if you drive in cold climates. A thermostat also allows the oil to warm up quicker; even in hot climates. But, in order for the thermostat to work properly, it MUST be hooked up correctly; & the ports will be marked "feed" & "return" (or something similar, depending on the brand you buy). The other side of the thermostat will have the cooler ports, & it doesn't matter which way they are hooked up.

I moved the ABS sensor connector (blue thing) & drilled two 25mm (1") holes to pass the oil lines through. As you can see, that is where I mounted my thermostat.

Thermostat

I secured the lines with a zip-tie to the subframe, to keep them from moving close to the pulley during hard cornering, & attached the lines to the adaptor plate with 45° AN fittings (for quick & easy removal; should I ever need to do so).

Secured Lines on Subframe

AN Fittings on Adaptor Plate

I checked the oil temp with a digital thermometer. From full cold, just idling in my driveway, it takes about 5 minutes to get the oil up to operating temperature 77°C (170° F).

 

cut7, all -

For what it may be worth, this style cooler is a MUCH better design than the old "tube" design. Much more efficient.

Mike

 

what oil cooler thermostat did you end up with?

 

Hayden