Drivetrain Power... 230 HP and over and clutch
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,359
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by SpiderX
I have read that the 19% can cause problems if used hard and long....what is up?
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: MALAYSIA
Hi Randy and all you guys,
Thanks for your feedback on the flywheel.
Randy,
I'm currently using the Unichip,can any other software make the adjustment for the increase of idling speed?Will there be any effect if I have Unichip installed?
I'm also using Fidanza with Spec clutch stage 2 and Quaife LSD,but the problem is my 'S' engine tends to stall sometimes when it comes to a slow down or a sudden stop with the air cond on.It looks as if the RPM needle just went straight down to zero where it supposed to pull up back to normal when it drops to certain RPM.But if without the air cond on the car is ok no matter if we come to slow down or a sudden stop.The idling speed is low as I suspect it,what do you think?I have almost decided to take off the Fidanza and replace it back with the original flywheel.It's hard to drive as the car might just die off in a sudden and you have to restart the car all over again.
I do agreed that the car response is much better than the original but the porblem of stalling down is my main problem not the sound of clattering actually.I can still bare with the sound.
Hope you guys have some advise to it.
Thanks.
Peter.
Thanks for your feedback on the flywheel.
Randy,
I'm currently using the Unichip,can any other software make the adjustment for the increase of idling speed?Will there be any effect if I have Unichip installed?
I'm also using Fidanza with Spec clutch stage 2 and Quaife LSD,but the problem is my 'S' engine tends to stall sometimes when it comes to a slow down or a sudden stop with the air cond on.It looks as if the RPM needle just went straight down to zero where it supposed to pull up back to normal when it drops to certain RPM.But if without the air cond on the car is ok no matter if we come to slow down or a sudden stop.The idling speed is low as I suspect it,what do you think?I have almost decided to take off the Fidanza and replace it back with the original flywheel.It's hard to drive as the car might just die off in a sudden and you have to restart the car all over again.
I do agreed that the car response is much better than the original but the porblem of stalling down is my main problem not the sound of clattering actually.I can still bare with the sound.
Hope you guys have some advise to it.
Thanks.
Peter.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 716
Likes: 0
From: Cumming, GA
Originally Posted by SpiderX
I have read that the 19% can cause problems if used hard and long....what is up?
I've run mine all year, and run it fairly hard, including a track day at Talladega (the road race track, not the famous NASCAR circuit nearby), an EVO School, every BMW CCWA auto-x, etc, and absolutely no problems.
I do employ a self-imposed 6500 RPM redline as a protective measure, however. But I don't see that as a sacrifice, because the performance beneath that is so much more entertaining....
YMMV
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,149
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by minihune
SpiderX,
Before you spend $4K on such upgrades, always consider:
What do you need 230 HP for?
How will that level of added HP affect all of the other weaker components?
What is the maintenance on said upgrades?
How does it affect daily drivability?
What are the hidden costs and/or potential complications?
If you are driving on the track and need much HP then 220 or 230 might be usable. For street driving about 200-210 is more than enough. Work on increasing or maxing out on torque first with your mods and you'd do better for less $$$. Always go for lightness before more power- which means lighter wheels and tires whenever possible- this will help no matter what sort of driving you do.
Once you get up to 230+ HP you always have to worry about transmission and clutch not to mention build up of heat. More power also means you'll need more stopping power- so some sort of brake upgrade or big brake kit.
If you are doing street driving primarily there is not much use for 230 HP over a MINI that has 200-210. Are you really needing to get somewhere 0.1 seconds earlier? My area is full of traffic and a stock MINI would arrive about the same time as a modded one. Long range commuting might be a bit better but not once you hit urban areas.
I'd have to agree with randy on the clutch wear. LSD labor is a killer unless you are dealing with someone that does it all the time.
Before you spend $4K on such upgrades, always consider:
What do you need 230 HP for?
How will that level of added HP affect all of the other weaker components?
What is the maintenance on said upgrades?
How does it affect daily drivability?
What are the hidden costs and/or potential complications?
If you are driving on the track and need much HP then 220 or 230 might be usable. For street driving about 200-210 is more than enough. Work on increasing or maxing out on torque first with your mods and you'd do better for less $$$. Always go for lightness before more power- which means lighter wheels and tires whenever possible- this will help no matter what sort of driving you do.
Once you get up to 230+ HP you always have to worry about transmission and clutch not to mention build up of heat. More power also means you'll need more stopping power- so some sort of brake upgrade or big brake kit.
If you are doing street driving primarily there is not much use for 230 HP over a MINI that has 200-210. Are you really needing to get somewhere 0.1 seconds earlier? My area is full of traffic and a stock MINI would arrive about the same time as a modded one. Long range commuting might be a bit better but not once you hit urban areas.
I'd have to agree with randy on the clutch wear. LSD labor is a killer unless you are dealing with someone that does it all the time.
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,253
Likes: 0
From: NY NY
KT: several of us have had the lightweight fly with no coming back to idle probs. Your ecu is supposed to compensate the idle speed when the AC is running; I would suspect that the problem is with the Unichip.
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