Drivetrain new belt tensioner/idler
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 143
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Originally Posted by jlm
let me communicate some tidbits:
in the stock system:
-weak link 1: the idler pulley needs a proper standoff/boss and washer; this is a $5 part, even though custom made;
-weak link 2: there is a too-long bolt attaching the motor mount bracket to the block surface right above the tensioner bracket. the too-long portion is an un-threaded pilot, completely un-necessary. the bolt should be removed and the pilot cut off. It is possible that too much beef applied to the tensioner tool can force the back of the tensioer bracket into this pilot, with the result that the bracket can be nicked and break (this is EXACTLY where the broken ones have cracked);
-weak link 3: the pulleys and bearings are well made, although they should all be trued; a fairly simple machining operation, where the pulley is spun on its bearing axis and the surface skim cut, removing no more than .005"
-weak link 4: if the pulley diameter is reduced, the spring pressure will be lessened; a spacer is required under the spring for reduced pulleys sizes;
weak link 5: should the belt snap, the only thing keeping the tensioner assembly from extending into the crank pulley and destroying it is the wimpy metal strip. this needs improvement. (Roland simply added an extra metal strip next to the dampener to control this, but that is less than ideal)
sufficent in the stock system:
-the bracket itself is strong enough and reasonably unstressed as the spring force is directed right at the tensioner pulley, (as long as one doesn't mash the bracket into the too-long bolt by leaning on the tensioner tool).
-pulleys and bearings;
-dampener; they may fail, but the unit seems adequate.
in the stock system:
-weak link 1: the idler pulley needs a proper standoff/boss and washer; this is a $5 part, even though custom made;
-weak link 2: there is a too-long bolt attaching the motor mount bracket to the block surface right above the tensioner bracket. the too-long portion is an un-threaded pilot, completely un-necessary. the bolt should be removed and the pilot cut off. It is possible that too much beef applied to the tensioner tool can force the back of the tensioer bracket into this pilot, with the result that the bracket can be nicked and break (this is EXACTLY where the broken ones have cracked);
-weak link 3: the pulleys and bearings are well made, although they should all be trued; a fairly simple machining operation, where the pulley is spun on its bearing axis and the surface skim cut, removing no more than .005"
-weak link 4: if the pulley diameter is reduced, the spring pressure will be lessened; a spacer is required under the spring for reduced pulleys sizes;
weak link 5: should the belt snap, the only thing keeping the tensioner assembly from extending into the crank pulley and destroying it is the wimpy metal strip. this needs improvement. (Roland simply added an extra metal strip next to the dampener to control this, but that is less than ideal)
sufficent in the stock system:
-the bracket itself is strong enough and reasonably unstressed as the spring force is directed right at the tensioner pulley, (as long as one doesn't mash the bracket into the too-long bolt by leaning on the tensioner tool).
-pulleys and bearings;
-dampener; they may fail, but the unit seems adequate.
What size spacer would you reccommend behind the spring for a 19% pulley?
The Engine mount bolt was a good find!!!! Thanks.
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 890
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From: Rutherfordton, NC
Originally Posted by XTREEM
Jlm, Do you replace the spring strap (piece with the T)??? For something more substantial?
What size spacer would you reccommend behind the spring for a 19% pulley?
The Engine mount bolt was a good find!!!! Thanks.
What size spacer would you reccommend behind the spring for a 19% pulley?
The Engine mount bolt was a good find!!!! Thanks.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 143
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Originally Posted by spillman
I too am interested in knowing what size spacer should be used on a 19%. If you add a spacer here you would be able to use a belt for much longer... Wouldn't you? Seeing as how this would translate into greater belt tension and more of a margin for the belt to stretch.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
As for the packing of the spring I dont think this is a issue as the spring seems to have plenty of stroke left anyway. I will let you know in a few days how I have gone.
John.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 143
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Hey guys I Turned up a bush for the idler wheel, which spigots into the block and idler, pretty simple thing to do once you have removed and measured!!
I also made a stop for the tensioner, which just consists of a Aluminium strap which is mounted on the same mounting points as the little shock, using longer bolts and small spacers so as the aluminium does not get pinched, Its best to remove the spring and re mount the tensioner so you can measure the stroke and make the new aluminium piece to take the tension just before the T piece on the spring retainer would take the force of a broken belt.
A easier option would be making a small stainless steel cable with well crimped ends and mounting it on the shock mount bolts, with a small loop in it, which would extend to the correct lenght in a belt snap situation. Same procedure for figuring out the correct lenght as the other option.
I know this probably wont make sense without pics... but i forgot to take them
I also made a stop for the tensioner, which just consists of a Aluminium strap which is mounted on the same mounting points as the little shock, using longer bolts and small spacers so as the aluminium does not get pinched, Its best to remove the spring and re mount the tensioner so you can measure the stroke and make the new aluminium piece to take the tension just before the T piece on the spring retainer would take the force of a broken belt.
A easier option would be making a small stainless steel cable with well crimped ends and mounting it on the shock mount bolts, with a small loop in it, which would extend to the correct lenght in a belt snap situation. Same procedure for figuring out the correct lenght as the other option.
I know this probably wont make sense without pics... but i forgot to take them
Coordinator :: ClubMINI.ph
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 246
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From: Philippines
Xtreem,
I was thinking of doing the same thing, it's going to be either a stainless steel plate or a stainbless cable with loops on both ends. I think the plate would be more secure since you don't have to worry about the crimp slipping. My question is do I need to jack the whole engine up to do this or is it doable by just removing the felder liner? This is the only thing holding me back.
John
I was thinking of doing the same thing, it's going to be either a stainless steel plate or a stainbless cable with loops on both ends. I think the plate would be more secure since you don't have to worry about the crimp slipping. My question is do I need to jack the whole engine up to do this or is it doable by just removing the felder liner? This is the only thing holding me back.
John
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by johnD
Xtreem,
I was thinking of doing the same thing, it's going to be either a stainless steel plate or a stainbless cable with loops on both ends. I think the plate would be more secure since you don't have to worry about the crimp slipping. My question is do I need to jack the whole engine up to do this or is it doable by just removing the felder liner? This is the only thing holding me back.
John
I was thinking of doing the same thing, it's going to be either a stainless steel plate or a stainbless cable with loops on both ends. I think the plate would be more secure since you don't have to worry about the crimp slipping. My question is do I need to jack the whole engine up to do this or is it doable by just removing the felder liner? This is the only thing holding me back.
John
John.
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