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The small white bushing here. I cant seem to find a part # for it, mine broke when installing the cravenspeed and I have some side to side slop. Is there an upgrade for this part?!
I got one from a Ford dealership. It's the same trans that Ford used, and they sell it individually. I don't remember the part number, but I found it originally while googling.
Found it:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-s/260470-fix-your-sloppy-shifter-now.html
Edit 2: make sure you grease it well or it'll pop out while driving.
I only found it by googling before I was signed up here. Not sure who originally figured it out.
It's the same part as in that thread, just call your dealer and order it. It's not a part they keep on site, but they're in the warehouse. Took me a week to get it.
People in that thread said that post face lift it didnt work. My shifter looks different than the one above. It has a plastic arm instead of the metal one that the bushing slides into. So I'm assuming it wont work.. My car is a 2007 r52
Just a follow up.. the ford getrag bushing does NOT fit my 2008 jcw r52 (gen1). Its much too small (see pic).
I spent some time rapid prototyping a new bushing.. havent put it on yet, waiting on new orings from Amazon, but hoping it holds up. I also tightened some tolerances, addded o-rings slots and lengthened it to see if I could remove more slop in the shifter. Ford vs facelift shifter bushing Prototype shifter bushings Dual oring version
Just a follow up.. the ford getrag bushing does NOT fit my 2008 jcw r52 (gen1). Its much too small (see pic).
I spent some time rapid prototyping a new bushing.. havent put it on yet, waiting on new orings from Amazon, but hoping it holds up. I also tightened some tolerances, addded o-rings slots and lengthened it to see if I could remove more slop in the shifter. Ford vs facelift shifter bushing Prototype shifter bushings Dual oring version
Not to be Shadenfreude of just my thought when once considered the short shifter briefly. When I saw the steps involve opening the what appears a delicate cassette, I decided that I didn't want to take the risks of breaking something. I would not have imagined one can break this nylon bushing though. I was more concerned with the barb tabs that locks the cassette two half housing.
Good you have the means to make your own bushing. Are they 3d printed? I would like to have a printer but not another hobby to get into.
You can pick up a whole box of assorted o-rings from HF for the price of ordering one from Amazon.
Yes, the install was a major PITA and in retrospect, I'm not sure it was worth the pain, but I'm happy its done. To be honest, I'm not sure if I broke the bushing or it was already broken, but its nice to have the means to fabricate my own!
I did a test fit today, and to my surprise, the cravenspeed shifter HAS A SMALLER ball end than the stocker, so I can guarantee that anyone who has a cravenspeed has experienced some additional slop after install, which is shocking because its entire function is to tighten the shifter up. I totally thought the slop I was seeing after install was correlated to the broken bushing, but now I can see its a tolerance issue. I didnt measure it but I'd guess the Cravenspeed shifter ball end about 1-1.5mm smaller in diameter, which doesnt seem like much, but equates to about .25 to .5" of slop at the top, depending on where its adjusted.
I took all of my new bushing measurements off of the stock shifter which I had out of the car so it was pretty annoying to realize I have to print another version again, this time with a smaller interior diameter. Anywhoo, I'll get this sorted and print a few extra in case anyone wants to buy one later, I can recoup some costs. If it works out well, it will be considered an upgrade, not just a fix. There will always be a little bit of slop lower in the shifter assembly, but I think I can get the slop to zero at the shifter's side ball end and bushing. I'm also looking into removing the slop at the pivot point more forward on the shifter assembly to reduce slop. It has a wave washer there which isnt helping tighten things up.
Ah, I didnt think to go locally to find orings.. Anyway the ones that are coming are high quality and of a durometer value I liked.
You are exactly right that 1-1.5mm slop multiplies to much bigger slop at the hand ****. I always have a healthy skepticism towards aftermarket "performance upgrades". I am sure your extra 3D-printed bushings would find demand.
The only shifter that I am willing to change to is this extra long shifter.
CAE racing shifter that you will find in a lot of BMW and Mini race cars.
My Mini hasn't gone over the deep end yet despite it desires to be a race car so the CAE shifter has to wait.
But wait, it kills my favorite cupholder. Deal breaker!
Yes I was very surprised the tolerances on the Craven were out like that. Maybe I got a wonky one?! Has anyone else noticed increased slop post craven? Other than thats its great, and the Version...5 bushing should fix the problem.
You are not alone. I would hate to butcher into those cup holders too, which I haven't find a cup that fit snugly except the these cups. They are too supersized for me.
watching the throws in this video gives me the itch that needs to be scratched
But wait, it kills my favorite cupholder. Deal breaker!
Yes I was very surprised the tolerances on the Craven were out like that. Maybe I got a wonky one?! Has anyone else noticed increased slop post craven? Other than thats its great, and the Version...5 bushing should fix the problem.
1-1.5mm is not a tolerance issue, that must just be the wrong part, I am so sorry about that!
In terms of likelihood, a machining error from us would be extremely rare. As good as we are at assembly and shipping; it is way more likely that you received the wrong part. In fact, the only difference between a Gen1 (late) and the Gen2 shifter is that the ball that goes into that bushing is about 1 mm smaller in diameter.
Here are some shots of the Stock Gen1 and Our short shifter.
I am really sorry that we got you the wrong part one way or another and I will be glad to fix it however I can. Given that you are printing (Looks like you have a form One, maybe?) some bushings that will resolve it on your own you might not need my help, but if you want to trade shifters I would be more than glad to take care of it for you.
This thread is making me think that maybe we ought to machine some of these bushings and I would be glad to provide you with one for free if the resin version isn't working out, and we have some machined.
Not to be Shadenfreude of just my thought when once considered the short shifter briefly. When I saw the steps involve opening the what appears a delicate cassette, I decided that I didn't want to take the risks of breaking something. I would not have imagined one can break this nylon bushing though. I was more concerned with the barb tabs that locks the cassette two half housing.
While I had not heard reports of the little side bushing breaking before this, that cassette (that is a more appropriate name than "MINI Shifter Retaining Clip", would you mind if I used that?) does get broken sometimes during an install.
We just added an indestructible one to the site:
Its sounds like breaking the Cassette is not the only thing holding you back from making the change but I would love some feedback on this new part. So, if you wanted to talk about a deal on a Blemished Gen1 shifter and a free new clip to use just send me a PM.
Aside from.the cost of a brand new snifter assembly ($270), would you say that this bushing is better and more durable than the brand new one white one? Or is it just a replacement for if the old one breaks?
I have a new shifter assembly waiting to be installed and was wondering if this side bushing is an upgrade and will not break as easily.
RP ABS parts are less expensive, and less durable than a proper cast mold part. If yours is not broken, you are ok. This is a great solution to folks that had a broken one to avoid a $300 purchase. If you have excessive side to side play, this fixes that.
RP ABS parts are less expensive, and less durable than a proper cast mold part. If yours is not broken, you are ok. This is a great solution to folks that had a broken one to avoid a $300 purchase. If you have excessive side to side play, this fixes that.