Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain new member first post 2006 MCS 49k

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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 07:04 PM
  #1  
Sunil Singh's Avatar
Sunil Singh
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new member first post 2006 MCS 49k

my first mini was an 03 base and i like it so much but I knew I would want more. So enjoyed it for a few months and got a bone stock 49k single owner S. I have to keep reminding myself it had a 6th gear in the highway.
My question is...I notice the exhaust come into passenger side muffler then to driver side and out the rear..
Any gain or improvement if I re route the pipe to the driver side only and out and toss the passenger muffler.
I did all fluids, even the rack, New rotors and pads and tires. 22mm rear sway bar. New plugs and wires and AFE filter and cabin filter...
I am thinking of a 15% and a tune and done to keep it reliable and a daily driver. I do all my own work...
I have SL55 and E63 bi turbo but every car has special things they like that will make power... I welcome your inputs.. and as a member suggested stay away from the MSD coil.. which I was going to order...I went back to OEM coil wires and plugs for now...
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 07:52 PM
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found what I was looking for

It is what is known as a single ball modification.
remove the pass side muffler and route it to the drivers side only...
Now to get my welding equipment out...
Any tips.. is the stock piping SS.
Is there a bend for this mod that I can just cut and weld in for this mod..
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 08:06 AM
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From: soggy pnw
Originally Posted by Sunil Singh
It is what is known as a single ball modification.
remove the pass side muffler and route it to the drivers side only...
Now to get my welding equipment out...
Any tips.. is the stock piping SS.
Is there a bend for this mod that I can just cut and weld in for this mod..
The one ball mod retains the muffler on the driver (left) side but deletes the resonator on the passenger. I wish it is the other way around for better weight distribution. The pipes are good quality mild steel, not SS as my muffler shop pointed out.





To do the job right you will need to add two bends. A lot of detail photos in my post here.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:06 AM
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Sunil Singh
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You ARE the man....

I skip lunch reading your link.
I wanted to add a boost guage now I know where to Tee and what pod to used. The only think I would change is your tubing path to better access the air filter.. Everything else is perfect...
I was looking at this pod for Boost for sure A/F or oil.
http://www.importimageracing.com/ati...iABEgIop_D_BwE
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:29 AM
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From: Tsunami Zone
Originally Posted by Sunil Singh
I was looking at this pod for Boost for sure A/F or oil.

http://www.importimageracing.com/ati...iABEgIop_D_BwE
Although more expensive I would go with the Cravenspeed Flexpod which mounts to the back of the tach ...



 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:41 AM
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From: soggy pnw
Originally Posted by Sunil Singh
I skip lunch reading your link.
I wanted to add a boost guage now I know where to Tee and what pod to used. The only think I would change is your tubing path to better access the air filter.. Everything else is perfect...
I was looking at this pod for Boost for sure A/F or oil.
http://www.importimageracing.com/ati...iABEgIop_D_BwE
In retrospect that is the mount that I would have chosen but at the time the price that I found was quite high. The Alta mounts was a PITA to use but for me it worked out with some pain and suffering.

How dare you critiqued my routing of the boost gauge? Believe me, I spent a lot of time planning the route. The nylon tubing that came with the gauge was less than generous in length, and I didn't want to buy a spool of no name tubing from Autozone. I also comprehended the routing of the tubing for the mechanical oil pressure gauge, which is even more challenging as the last thing I want is to have the line spring a leak.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 11:07 AM
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Welcome, great to have a low mileage car like that.

The one ball mod isn't one to give you power, but it does nice to improve the sound a little and take almost 20lbs off the car so no downside for the cost.

If you haven't done a pulley, for sure that should be the first mod, we have plenty of pulley kit options.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 01:18 PM
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PNWR53s You show your skills and more after looking at your post

I dont like to spend as my cars are sucking all the cash. AMG turbo and AMG 6.2NA now the fun soon to be lighter weight MINI...
A friend of mine had run oil pressure gauge into his car mechanical same as your did and the fitting started to spray, the damage big time. Any reason you did not go with a sender design. ( i just want to know)

Yes, I am going to do the 15% but thinking of grinding the pulley, I was even thinking of pulling the SC changing the oil and drop a lower temp stat but at 50k I am told no need for all that...
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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From: soggy pnw
Originally Posted by Sunil Singh
A friend of mine had run oil pressure gauge into his car mechanical same as your did and the fitting started to spray, the damage big time. Any reason you did not go with a sender design. ( i just want to know)
When I was installing mine, I took great care routing and tightening up the fittings but not overtorque them. I trust Autometer's quality. I chose mechanical for its simplicity. The electric type gauge would require you to bring the sender to the firewall with a flex line and adapter as there is not much room down at the port by the oil filter. It can be done without, some would argue.
 
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