I took Desire out for a spin; we went to Harbor Freight to buy more tools - just low cost sockets and such
I then took the GT4 out for a short spin too but the traffic'd gotten sucky so just a quickie; we posted in front of our neighbor's 981 base Cayman
while working on the Porsche I heard this distinct engine sound so I immediate grabbed the iPhone just in time to snap this when my other neighbor drove by
a while later the same neighbor drove by and I was a bit away from the iPhone but manage to caught this shot
Today I dived into the dreaded job of wiring up the harness for the AiM Solo 2 DL and the SmartyCam HD in the Porsche.
today's weather was mild so I decided to dive into the dreaded job of wiring up a custom harness for the AiM Solo 2 DL which I move between Desire and the Porsche
the CAN bus signals may be accessed behind the trim by the fuse box in the footwell
as always it was all guess work as how to remove the trim panel and always risk breaking something
this is the CAN bus twisted pair (ORG/RED = CAN+, ORG/BRN = CAN-)
I made a similar harness as I did in Desire spiced in a length of twisted pair to give the length that I planned
all my spiced connections are done this way so no chance of issue (unless I screw up with a poor solder joint)
finding a reliable ground is always a challenge so this time I decided to create my own with this wire lug; I added a second wire for future use as well as leaving the other solder eyelet free of solder for future use
I drilled a small hole in the sheet metal standoff and use a self-tapping screw to secure the ground lug; how elegant
last is to use a add-a-fuse to tap off the switched 12V for power
before tidying up the wiring I set out to make sure the Solo 2 DL is getting the CAN bus traffic
I have programmed a new profile and download to the Solo 2 DL with a new configuration for the Porsche. Well I first selected the 718 Cayman GT4 and that didn't work. As there are too many possible choices I decided first to conduct a sanity check by breaking out the DSO.
the polarities are correct and the signal amplitudes look right
There are a few possibilities. I may need to turn on the 120 ohm termination resistors for the CAN bus. More likely than not I didn't select the right Porsche ECU CAN protocol.
I had to break out the notebook and try different Porsche's CAN protocols; I use the RPM to determine if I have the right one
what do you know, the most unlikely one that looks wrong is the one to use; the 991_911 turned out to be the right one for my 981 based GT4; I thought the Cayman_981_GT4CS (CS for Club Sport) is the most likely one but it turned out not
I tidied up the wiring with fleece tape to give a factory appearance
also strain-relieved the harness by taping it tight against the wire bundle
all buttoned up and you would not know a wiring mod has been done behind the trim panel
Wow, that does not look like a DIY project for the average shade tree mechanic...
I can handle wires along with the wrench and hammer stuff, but having to need the scope and that stuff, I would be a little less comfortable having to take on a project at that level.
I see at least 3 twisted pairs in that bundle you were working on. How do you know which is the CAN bus? I would love to do something different for the tach in my JCW and I would figure that accessing the CAN bus would be the only way to do that. The OBDII port is way too slow to do anything meaningful from.
Close but still short. I do like the MX5's double A arm suspension more. I am totally with Mr. Blah only if Mazda ever realize there are many would want a coupe. A coupe will be lighter than the RF too.
Style wise, I can never warm up to the frontal design of the MX5. They have gotten better with each successive generation but still have that silly face.
Very interesting there is a JDM MX5 NB coupe. BTW, I think the MX5 was mainly a Mazda USA design effort started in California. I have a book somewhere about the history of the development of the NA.
No one makes an oversized aftermarket IC for the R53?
I was following a thread where the guy made his own GP IC by cut up 2 Cooper S ICs and extending one with a section from the other one.
Now that is something I would be willing to try.
Yes, that is our one time gen 1 moderator Whine Not Walnut who was ousted. If I have a TIG I would definitely give that a try. I need a plasma cutter and a TIG, and a pair of Hunter tire machines..., and a lift...
There are at least three aftermarket oversized TMICs for R53. I think most are from UK.
Yes, that is our one time gen 1 moderator Whine Not Walnut who was ousted. If I have a TIG I would definitely give that a try. I need a plasma cutter and a TIG, and a pair of Hunter tire machines..., and a lift...
There are at least three aftermarket oversized TMICs for R53. I think most are from UK.
I’d give it a shot with a Saws-all, MAPP gas torch and Al brazing rod. I’ve done a lot of thin sheet Al with those. Although I must admit, those other things would be nice to have and do it Nick Blackhurst style...
I think he used jbweld, he lives near me and I can ask him. He just gave me a ride in his M62 powered convert, walks away from my car but he has a ported head and bigger supercharger, he was still tuning it at the time
From what I can tell, there is no metal in it. It is nonconducting. It is gray so it looks like metal-ish. It is a very high strength epoxy. By high strength I mean about 4000 psi tensile strength. Likely why they call it “weld”... It can be used as a filler, stand alone or a bonding agent for gluing 2 things together. I’ve used it over the years with good success. It is a slow cure (15 - 24 hrs) epoxy which is what gives it the strength it has. It is somewhat brittle so it is best used on metals and the like. I’ve used it on hard plastics. I find it worth having around and some really old stuff I have still works, so I would say it has a long, long shelf life.
I used it to plug a hole in an atv case, held for years!
had a little scare at the track yesterday, out in our advanced intermediate which is mostly solo drivers. A fiat made a few mistakes, pointed on wrong side, then correct side and did not lift so I did not attempt pass. He then lifted going over the "kink" which resulted in a spin and me taking the straight path out to the grass, steering input over the kink would have spun me into him
probably going 90-100 across that kink, will have data later
From what I can tell, there is no metal in it. It is nonconducting. It is gray so it looks like metal-ish. It is a very high strength epoxy. By high strength I mean about 4000 psi tensile strength. Likely why they call it “weld”... It can be used as a filler, stand alone or a bonding agent for gluing 2 things together. I’ve used it over the years with good success. It is a slow cure (15 - 24 hrs) epoxy which is what gives it the strength it has. It is somewhat brittle so it is best used on metals and the like. I’ve used it on hard plastics. I find it worth having around and some really old stuff I have still works, so I would say it has a long, long shelf life.
I infer it has metal because of the grey color. I never bought any and have never handled or seen the repaired parts. However I worked with composite lamination and am very familiar with different bonding resins. Epoxy being perhaps the strongest of all. Epoxy comes in different grades and characteristics. I have some 2 part (aren't they all?) West System epoxy and it is incredibly strong and tough. I have them over 20 years and they have no sign of deterioration when mixed and cured. The only thing that is abnormal is one of the two part resins developed a deep red color. Cured epoxy can be damage by UV and hence should always be protected by a paint finish.
May be JB Weld has shredded fiberglass fibers mixed in. Fiber is always necessary to increase tensile strength. Even I do that with my epoxy if the bonding or repair application calls for it. When I use it to repair stripped screw holes I will add some fiberglass fibers into the mixture or slip some into the hole.
Epoxy is a plastic and hence poor thermal conductor. I would not use for the said intercooler application.
I used it to plug a hole in an atv case, held for years!
had a little scare at the track yesterday, out in our advanced intermediate which is mostly solo drivers. A fiat made a few mistakes, pointed on wrong side, then correct side and did not lift so I did not attempt pass. He then lifted going over the "kink" which resulted in a spin and me taking the straight path out to the grass, steering input over the kink would have spun me into him
I spun when I was chasing my friend in his track prep M3. In a tight turn he was slower than I expected so I was forced to lift, resulting in my spinning. I don't try to craw up their tailpipe unless I trust them. Some like the Red Baron I will deliberately overlap his car at turns to intimidate him.
On the upcoming last track event of the year, our team's executive chef is planning to make a dinner with Spanish flair. He took the opportunity to have a rehearsal as it has been years since he last prepared a paella. The biggest challenge in a successful paella is getting the rice to be perfectly al dente and with a nice crusty bottom, and not to turn the meat and seafood into shoe leather.
even a glass of Spanish vino
He didn't kill himself shopping for all the appropriate ingredients. In fact making the paella was a spur of the moment decision to use up some marinated chicken meat. Everything came out of the fridge/freezer and pantry. There were chicken, sea scallops, gulf shrimps, and cuttlefish, and my neighbor's tomato in there amongst other things.
the proper Spanish paella pans made of quality mild steel - we have four sizes and choosing the perfect size is very important
Somehow I didn't include this photo of the finished harness prep. The DIY short harness with the connector allow us to move the AiM equipment between two cars with the least fuss, without buying an additional harness from AiM. The best part is the short stub that is hard-wired to the car does not get in the way when not in use, unlike the full length cable from AiM.
the cable stub can be tucked away easily when not in use; the one in Desire is similar and sits on the Euro Parcel Shelf
I used it to plug a hole in an atv case, held for years!
had a little scare at the track yesterday, out in our advanced intermediate which is mostly solo drivers. A fiat made a few mistakes, pointed on wrong side, then correct side and did not lift so I did not attempt pass. He then lifted going over the "kink" which resulted in a spin and me taking the straight path out to the grass, steering input over the kink would have spun me into him
A few years back, I had someone do that in front of me. He wasn’t so fortunate. The guardrail was about 5’ off the track and he didn’t say on the track. Good the Fiat driver stayed on the track there as sliding sideways in the dirt might have caused the car to roll.
On your tracks, what is the “correct” side to point a car by to? We point to the inside of the upcoming turn. That is, if the next turn is a right turn, then we point to the right and the overtaking car goes off line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnwR53S
I infer it has metal because of the grey color. I never bought any and have never handled or seen the repaired parts. However I worked with composite lamination and am very familiar with different bonding resins. Epoxy being perhaps the strongest of all. Epoxy comes in different grades and characteristics. I have some 2 part (aren't they all?) West System epoxy and it is incredibly strong and tough. I have them over 20 years and they have no sign of deterioration when mixed and cured. The only thing that is abnormal is one of the two part resins developed a deep red color. Cured epoxy can be damage by UV and hence should always be protected by a paint finish.
May be JB Weld has shredded fiberglass fibers mixed in. Fiber is always necessary to increase tensile strength. Even I do that with my epoxy if the bonding or repair application calls for it. When I use it to repair stripped screw holes I will add some fiberglass fibers into the mixture or slip some into the hole.
Epoxy is a plastic and hence poor thermal conductor. I would not use for the said intercooler application.
JP Weld is very smooth when mixed, and I see no fibers. However, I like your idea of mixing shredded fiberglass in it. I have used fiberglass joint tape (eg the stuff for doing sheetrock joints).
In the intercooler application, I seem to remember that the edges of the 2 tank sections were butted together and JB Weld was used to join the end tanks together where heat transfer isn’t particularly necessary. The heat transfer tubes between the 2 sections of end tanks were kept whole and where the two tubes came together lengthwise he used heat sink compound between them. However, it seemed to me that he could have left a gap between them. But I didn’t see really well what he was doing and why.
I would not trust JB Weld or Epoxy alone to hold the two pieces of ICs together driving on track under ~15 PSI of pressure. To achieve a strong enough bond you need to have high tensile strength fibers and a large bonding surface. Unlike a weld joint which is fused together epoxy on metal is a mechanical bond.
Here is a photo of how I use epoxy and glass fibers to repair a stripped wood screw hole. The repaired hole is stronger than a newly drilled hole. And yes, that is 20+ year old West System epoxy that has turned a deep purple rather than yellowish clear.
The more I think about a GP TMIC the more tempting it is for me to use it as an excuse to buy a TIG and learn to use one. Each time I go to HF I lust after one of them and they get cheaper and better by the day. When Whine Not Walnut was doing his, I was already thinking about all the steps to make one by TIG welding. You have to cut out a bit of the end caps to allow access for welding on the inside and then weld the openings shut after. The project will require good but not excellent TIG welding skill.
VW group may be seen as the Government Motor of Germany, at least for the Lower Saxony region. Now the regional government has charged the bosses with stock market manipulation. Biting the hands that feed you, it may seems? However it is not too surprising as the regional government owns substantial share of the car manufactory group and withholding of concealing value destroying insider information definitely does not sit well with them. I would not be surprised there will be insider trading charges to come.
On all accounts of what you said above. (Edit - post 2121)
Not sure about the HF welder, though. Although I have no basis for saying that except I find their stuff to be pretty hit or miss. A welder is big enough bucks and it needs to perform. I have thought to go with the Lincoln or Hobart, 220v (just because I can ) just to get the assurance that it will perform. I have found over the years, that if I don’t go oversized on things like that, I always wind up wishing I had. Most of the time you can use “big” where “small” will do OK, but you can’t very well use “small” where “big” is needed.
If you do get the HF welder, I hope to be reading a full account of it...
VW group may be seen as the Government Motor of Germany, at least for the Lower Saxony region. Now the regional government has charged the bosses with stock market manipulation. Biting the hands that feed you, it may seems? However it is not too surprising as the regional government owns substantial share of the car manufactory group and withholding of concealing value destroying insider information definitely does not sit well with them. I would not be surprised there will be insider trading charges to come.
The quest for more and more money and profits always seems to bring out the worst of people and companies, and companies rot from the top down not the bottom up. In this case it may “hurt” a bit to do what they have to do, but it maybe best in the long run. If the “rot” gets to be too big, the damage done to “cure” it may not be survivable.
) just to get the assurance that it will perform. I have found over the years, that if I don’t go oversized on things like that, I always wind up wishing I had. Most of the time you can use “big” where “small” will do OK, but you can’t very well use “small” where “big” is needed.
