Drivetrain Stage 3 clutch in street R53?
#1
Stage 3 clutch in street R53?
I recently finished adding some power to the MINI and my clutch has started slipping under full throttle near the torque band. Chris at Sneed Speed has recommended the Spec stage 3 clutch kit and the Spec lightweight aluminum flywheel. He says it drives great, lasts longer than OEM and will handle all future mods fine. He's been putting them in all his MINIs for 6 years.
That sounds good to me, but I want some other input. I can't imagine the flywheel won't chatter at least. This kit would run me almost $1k and I might as well do the Quaife LSD while I'm in there so that's $2k in just parts. I will probably need to supply my own labor.
Does anyone have this kit? Any other good driving, long-lasting options out there that can hold 210whp+?
Here's the clutch and flywheel in question:
http://www.sneed4speed.com/mini-coop...ec-clutch-kit/
http://www.sneed4speed.com/r53-mini-...inum-flywheel/
That sounds good to me, but I want some other input. I can't imagine the flywheel won't chatter at least. This kit would run me almost $1k and I might as well do the Quaife LSD while I'm in there so that's $2k in just parts. I will probably need to supply my own labor.
Does anyone have this kit? Any other good driving, long-lasting options out there that can hold 210whp+?
Here's the clutch and flywheel in question:
http://www.sneed4speed.com/mini-coop...ec-clutch-kit/
http://www.sneed4speed.com/r53-mini-...inum-flywheel/
#2
#3
Well mine wasn't slipping before I added power and now it is. I'm not even at 100k yet. I just don't want to be doing this twice.
#5
Get the Valeo Clutch Kit. It will hold your hp.
http://waymotorworks.com/valeo-clutc...l-kit-r53.html
http://waymotorworks.com/valeo-clutc...l-kit-r53.html
#6
I can concured that. I had my OEM at 180K and it still not slipping. Just a sign of clutch replacement i.e. hard pedal. I Just replaced the OEM just a week ago with a Valeo.
#7
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#8
Honestly, you'll be fine with the Valeo or OEM with that kind of power.
Plus, when it comes to clutches it's more about Torque than HP and Driving Style (Use) than total miles.
For a DD with no track time and less than 200 ft/lb of torque, you'll be fine without an "upgrade".
I had 212k on my original clutch prior to my motor rebuild, and it looked good enough I could have probably gotten 300k out of it.
Plus, when it comes to clutches it's more about Torque than HP and Driving Style (Use) than total miles.
For a DD with no track time and less than 200 ft/lb of torque, you'll be fine without an "upgrade".
I had 212k on my original clutch prior to my motor rebuild, and it looked good enough I could have probably gotten 300k out of it.
#9
Honestly, you'll be fine with the Valeo or OEM with that kind of power.
Plus, when it comes to clutches it's more about Torque than HP and Driving Style (Use) than total miles.
For a DD with no track time and less than 200 ft/lb of torque, you'll be fine without an "upgrade".
I had 212k on my original clutch prior to my motor rebuild, and it looked good enough I could have probably gotten 300k out of it.
Plus, when it comes to clutches it's more about Torque than HP and Driving Style (Use) than total miles.
For a DD with no track time and less than 200 ft/lb of torque, you'll be fine without an "upgrade".
I had 212k on my original clutch prior to my motor rebuild, and it looked good enough I could have probably gotten 300k out of it.
#10
Originally Posted by sevin
Strange then that mine is failing with only 92k and 175ft/lbs.
#11
I can't imagine you or your buddy were particularly easy on your clutches. I'm sure anyone with some mods has them because they like doing pulls and launches every now and then. I don't know how it was driven before 75k, but I hope my driving habits weren't what pushed it over the edge because I have every intention of getting a few pulls in every time I get the chance to go out.
#12
#13
Well I guess we'll see. I'll probably place my order for the Valeo kit, rear main seal and the Quaife tonight.
#14
Does this list look good to y'all? Remembered I'll also need a couple gallons of coolant as it's necessary to drain it when doing the clutch.
- Valeo kit 52151203 (SMF flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool and hardware)
- Fel-Pro rear main seal
- 2 quarts Redline MTL transmission fluid
- 2 gal. OEM coolant (needs to be diluted 50/50)
- Dragway engine support bar
- Quaife LSD
- Valeo kit 52151203 (SMF flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool and hardware)
- Fel-Pro rear main seal
- 2 quarts Redline MTL transmission fluid
- 2 gal. OEM coolant (needs to be diluted 50/50)
- Dragway engine support bar
- Quaife LSD
Last edited by sevin; 03-29-2017 at 05:20 PM. Reason: added transmission fluid and support bar
#15
#16
Formatted because I'm ****:
WayMotorWorks
ECSTuning
RockAuto
Amazon
Yay for quad posts.
WayMotorWorks
- quaife lsd
ECSTuning
- 2 gal. oem coolant (dilute 50/50)
- oem water pump
- oem thermostat w/ gasket
- oem bypass valve (updated part)
- oem throwout bearing guide tube
- o-rings for water pump
- oem water pump
- oem thermostat w/ gasket
- oem bypass valve (updated part)
- oem throwout bearing guide tube
- o-rings for water pump
RockAuto
- valeo smf clutch kit
Amazon
- 8 oz. gm s/c oil
- 2 qt. red line 75w80 transaxle fluid
- fel-pro rear main seal
- dragway engine support bar
- 2 qt. red line 75w80 transaxle fluid
- fel-pro rear main seal
- dragway engine support bar
Yay for quad posts.
Last edited by sevin; 03-29-2017 at 06:57 PM.
#22
#23
http://momentummotorsportshop.com/qu...-differential/
I bought my quaife from this site. It also has a free shipping and 5% off code
I bought my quaife from this site. It also has a free shipping and 5% off code
Not always, but it's a good idea when you're in that far. It's possible the release bearing has scored it or something.
#25
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Yes like they said the Valeo will work for you fine. The aftermarket "stages" of clutches are really race clutches and never last as long as the original and due to the higher clamping force and materials they are made from they will be stiffer and harder to drive every day.
As for the Quaife and other parts we keep that all on the shelf and ready to ship as we install them in the shop all the time.
Don't bother ordering coolant online. You can pick up much cheaper coolant at your local parts store that works fine. I even run the green in my cars.
As for the Quaife and other parts we keep that all on the shelf and ready to ship as we install them in the shop all the time.
Don't bother ordering coolant online. You can pick up much cheaper coolant at your local parts store that works fine. I even run the green in my cars.