So I recently got a stage 2 tune. I didn't buy the SPS Switch as I didn't have enough money since I'm about to move into a new apartment. When I got my car it was in map c. I was told by the tuner that it's totally safe as they do t make the tune to break the car and they tune it so it's still reliable. I've heard from some people on here they won't touch map c so I'm wondering if it is safe for my car. I don't want to worry about knock and a dead motor. What are your thoughts?

 

For me, map C is just for 100+ gas or meth. I dont know if the dealers can change the map locations.

 

Do you currently run Meth? For mine they had me come in, downloaded my ECU, Sent it off to be tuned, I came back and they installed it. It seemed like they made one just for my car. Can I call Manic themselves? I'm only running 93 so if what you saying is the case for all of them I'm probably ly not in good shape lol. Maybe some other people will have some opinions with their tunes. I'm really trying to save money otherwise I'd just buy the s0s switch got map b and call it a day.

 

If you can I would bring it back to the dealer and tell them to put it in Map A for you. Map C is for 100 octane fuel, and I wouldn't run B or C without methanol.

I recently blew up my motor on Stage 2 Map B even though I was still running 93, which is the appropriate fuel for Map B. Once I get my car fixed I'm not running more than Map A (91 octane) without methanol. Even Jan from RMW says he wouldn't run Map B without at least 80% meth and 93 octane.

Until you can remedy the problem, don't drive the car more than 1/2 throttle. Last thing you want is your cylinder 1 piston cap to blow out the front of your engine block like mine did.

 

Your Manic dealer, should have set your car to stage 2, and for all maps to work on 93 octane, and not 93 +Meth/Race gas. Map C will be OK, but you are pushing the car to the edge. Many of us, run map B for daily driving. mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Mario, thanks for the heads up. Yeah when I filled out the form I said 93 only. Im not pushing the car hard at all right now until I get answers like these in which case I'll have to purchase the SPS Switch. I can't afford a new one of these engines. I'll probably just daily map a and every now and then switch to map b. Is detonation the cause of death for these engines on these maps? If so is running meth the only way to combat that? What about octane boosters? If I take it easy until I can buy the SPS Switch I should be fine right? Could I install a meth kit without tuning for it just for added protection as opposed to more performance or would it run too rich?

 

How much is it costing you to have fixed? I DON'T want the to happen to me lol. How hard were you driving it?

 

About $6500 to get a used 2013 motor put in with less than 50k. I was driving about 3/4 throttle, 2nd gear, about 4k RPM. Heard a loud bang then what sounded like loose gravel in a tin can. Cyl 1 piston cap blew off and left a 2"x3" hole in the front of block right above my oil pan. Posted in the Modified Minis page on FB about it and Jan from RMW says it's because Manic's tune dulls down the knock sensors. I'm going by his recommendation here with the Map A only without meth.

 

Damn I'm sorry to hear that man. That's a lot of money for just trying to have some fun. Well I'm glad you found a motor and we're able to get that squared away. I guess I'll just stay with map a. How much power does that really make anyways? If it's about the same as a jb+ I'll be a little mad if I spent all this money for nothing really. If I were to run meth I would have to get a tune for it right? Then those other mapsychological would be safe?

 

Depending on setup and atmospheric conditions probably somewhere in the 200-215whp range. You can even go on Manic's FB page and see the differences between A, B, and C maps on a real dyno sheet are 5-10 HP, barely enough for you to notice. If you run 2A you'll be making loads more power than a JB+ alone definitely.

 

Yeah I'm just sticking with Map A Thanks for the help man. Now I need to figure out how to get out of work for a little bit and drive to the dealer. Thanks again for answeringk my million questions lol.

 

Wow

Do they really dull down nock sensors? Thats not good.

 

Bombardier,

I saw your post on Facebook, did your rod break or did the rod bolt break causing the end cap to separate?

The rod bolts are quite small our engines and are a known weak point.

 

I won't really know until I pick up the old engine from the mechanic replacing it and tear it down, but the face of the piston cap where it would meet up with the rest of the piston is not smooth and flush, it looks like it sheared. Either way, something knocked hard and blew that piston cap off, whether it was that cylinder or another cylinder knocked hard enough to throw the crankshaft through that piston cap.

 

That's what Jan at RMW says. And I'm inclined to trust the only guy out there who has actually built custom R56 dyno tunes and is well known for it.

 

I believe that the rods are powdered forged and during the manufacturing process the caps are one piece and fractured to separate them into two halves, so they may look like that normally.

I'm not totally positive that the N18 using this type of rod though.

Sounds to me that rods bolts failed under too much torque more than likely caused by pre-ignition.

Let's us know when you get it back.

 

What spark plugs were you using?

 

NGK ILZKBR7A-8Gs

 

Any reason you didn't go with the NGK ILKR8E6? That's what I was told to go with.

 

No, hes not "the only one". Plenty id tuners.

 

It does sound almost as if the rod failed. I'd love to see pictures when you get a chance thebombardier. Cerenkov you are correct sir. The N18 and N14 rods are powder forged with cracked end caps. The rods themselves are not bad units and will usually take a bit of abuse. The rod bolts however are another story. As torque levels approach 300ft/lbs the bolts stretch. For this reason I replaced mine with ARP bolts relatively cheaply. I had been running my Stage 2+ with meth on my N14 JCW for 16K miles before changing the bolts. Normally in Mode B, sometimes with meth and sometimes without. I'm also still running the stock JCW turbo for now. I've seen my data logs where timing is pulled and even a superknock code when I got some bad gas. So it's not difficult to document that the sensor is working.

Also tb, at what boost level was your meth system kicking in? What kind of system? What ratio of meth were you running and what size nozzle. All of these are important as the tune is not in control of the meth system.

 

Yeah, a little daft to say "only", but certainly the only one I've heard of that comes with dozens of recommendations.

 

I cant do that, but hes not the toppic. Im also interested in see if a rod failed or something different happened. Tigger, so do you belive the stock rods can handle 300hp? And only will be required to change pistons?

 

I was running 312WHP on OEM bottom end for about a year before I rebuilt it with both rods and pistons. 'Course I didn't push it very often, but it held.